Cannon Crud

If you look at the hind cannon bones of many horses, you might see a patch of grey, greasy dirt centred on the front. This is commonly referred to as "cannon crud", or by the more medical name of "cannon keratosis".

While it seems not to bother most horses, it is unsightly and if it's allowed to build up over time, it can cause the hair in the affected area to fall out in clumps.

A horse affected by cannon keratosis whose symptoms are not treated on a regular basis will often have clean-looking legs after a pre-show bath, but the greasiness will reappear during warm-up when dirt sticks to the remainder of the greasy patch.

While not all agree on the cause of cannon kerotosis or on the best way to treat the underlying condition, there are easy ways to keep the build-up of "cannon crud" under control.

Step one is to loosen the crud. This can be done with your fingernails, a scrubbing brush or a rubbery curry or grooming tool. If the build-up is very hard and hair is coming out, back off and wait for the crud to soften before attempting to loosen it.

Once you've loosened the cannon crud somewhat to allow you to clean more deeply, wash the legs with soap or shampoo, applying it directly to the legs. Experiment to find what works best for your horse; an anti-dandruff shampoo could help the underlying condition or plain old dish soap could help to cut through the greasiness. If one treatment doesn't seem to be helping, try something different. While one bath isn't likely to remove the cannon crud completely, you should be able to see a difference.

After washing the legs, dry them by rubbing with a towel. This is a good habit to get into regardless of whether or not your horse has cannon crud because many conditions affecting the skin of the legs thrive in a wet environment.

With some experimentation you should be able to put your horse on a regular leg washing schedule to keep the symptoms of cannon keratosis at bay. Altering your grooming routine to keep that section of hair loosened up will make it much easier for your chosen treatment to penetrate.

How to Attach a Lead Shank to the Bit

A leather lead shank can be a very useful tool to have at shows. Not only is it an attractive option for leading potentially unruly horses, but it can be used with either a halter or a bridle.

When leading a horse to or from the show ring, using a lead chain instead of leading by the reins means that if the horse somehow gets loose, there won't be a loop of reins hanging down that could get caught in a leg. A lead shank is also generally longer than a rein which makes it easier for a groom to move around the horse as needed.

There are lead shanks designed specifically to be used with a bit, often called a jumper lead shank or a Newmarket shank. These offer a split-chain design, with a clip on each of two short lengths of chain for each of the bit rings. When multiple lead shanks are not a priority, however, a standard lead chain can easily be used with either a halter or a bridle.

Neither of these
is ideal









The most common mistake when using a standard chain is attaching it to only one side of the bit. With this set-up, pulling on the lead will result in the horse turning in a circle towards the handler rather than slowing down or stopping, as all of the pressure is pulling the left side of the bit to the outside. It may work for some situations in which the lead needs to be removed quickly, such as when leading a difficult horse through the in-gate, but it is not ideal for general use.

Doubling the chain over will allow the handler to safely maintain a shorter feel on the lead if the chain is too long, but the same circling problem will continue to occur.

The most correct way to use a standard chain shank with a bit is what is shown in the photo above. The chain is passed up through one of the bit rings, run under the chin, back out through the other bit ring, and then it's clipped back onto itself at the base of the chain. With this set-up, pulling on the lead will exert pressure on both sides of the mouth, keeping the horse from turning into the handler instead of stopping. Turning ability still exists, and most horses will follow the direction that their handler takes anyway without requiring direction from the lead shank.

This method of attachment is especially important to use for any type of bit that might slide through the mouth if too much pressure is exerted on one side, such as a loose ring or a bit with particularly small cheek pieces.

With the reins flipped safely over the neck and out of the way, attaching the lead chain in this triangle configuration ensures consistent and predictable control, which is very important when navigating busy paths and hitching rings.

Coloured Jackets in the Hunter Ring

As the trend for distinctive jacket colours continues in the jumper ring, the question comes up of the suitability of these jackets for the hunter ring.

Equine Canada rules call for a "coat, shirt and tie, choker or stock, breeches or jodhpurs and boots" (Article G109 Dress), with no mention of jacket colour. An EC steward confirmed that the hunter rules do not discriminate against any jacket colour.

For equitation classes, the jacket must be conservative, so a loud or unusual colour would not be appropriate (Article G1003 Dress).

As far as I can find, USEF rules mention only formal attire, leaving the dress for less formal classes unspecified. Any readers who are aware of USEF's stance on jacket colours outside of formal (hunter classic, etc.) attire are welcome to comment with any further information.

While a jacket colour might be permitted, that does not mean that it is always a good idea. Loud or unusual colours will make your rounds or flatwork stand out, which could either work in your favour if you have a perfect round or against it by making small errors more memorable. While some judges enjoy the look of certain unusual jacket colours, others much prefer traditional colour choices and there is always a chance that this may subconsciously affect scoring.

Your turnout for more formal classes should always be on the conservative side, so save the bold colours for those classes that are not classics, derbies, or even on the more formal weekend.

As always, steer clear of the jacket colour of your country's national team, as well as from anything like local hunt colours unless you have permission to use them.

Turnout Critique #17

This week's featured horse and rider exhibit fantastic turnout that wouldn't look out of place in any hunter or equitation division at a horse show, but their turnout is even better when you consider that they're competing in the Short Stirrup division!

First off, her tack is beautifully clean and well-fitting. The saddle is small enough that the rider is not swimming in it but there still appears to be room for her to grow. The bridle is adjusted with the noseband right up under the cheek bones to complement her horse's face, and the horse is wearing the standard hunter D-ring and standing martingale (which is also correctly adjusted with enough length that it could be pulled up to the throat latch area). The saddle pad is very well-chosen to follow the outline of the saddle with an inch or two of pad showing all the way around. The rider is using a traditional stainless steel stirrup iron, suitable for any class she might wish to enter, and I appreciate that the excess stirrup leather is tucked under the flap as they are usually distractingly long for a rider of this age unless trimmed or tucked in.

The rider is correctly turned out in suitably conservative hunter attire with a black helmet, dark jacket, white show shirt, beige breeches and fitted black field boots, polished to a shine. It is more common to see short boots and jodhpurs in the Short Stirrup division because they are more easily adjusted to the growing rider, but there's nothing wrong with tall boots and I think that they suit this pair well. I like how her jacket is fitted; often jackets for smaller riders are quite boxy but hers fits her body and is a great length. The rider is wearing conservative black gloves and she has her hair up in a hairnet. Braided hair with bows would also be an option for this division, but again I believe that this pair pull off their chosen look extremely well. It looks like the hairnet might have slipped off beneath the rider's ear or snagged on an earring, but that is a very minor detail.

This horse is complemented by a beautiful braiding job. Braiding the tail is not needed for this division except at the most prestigious shows. The horse's tail is nicely brushed out but it could benefit from some more fullness at the bottom if one were to be very picky. The illusion of fullness can be achieved by trimming a small amount from the bottom of the tail (keeping most of the length as hunters generally prefer tails that are on the longer side) or by adding in a modest fake tail for showing. Depending on the cause of the thinness, bagging the tail or not brushing it too often at home could also be of benefit for keeping it thick and healthy.

The horse appears to be very clean and I suspect that he would look shiny in the sun. His hooves are nicely oiled and the small amount of white on his legs is clean. My only grooming quibbles are related to trimming. Because hunters are shown with bare legs, attention should be paid to their appearance. Trimming the little tuft of hair at the back of each fetlock would make this pair look that much sleeker and more elegant. I also noticed a little tuft of hair in front of the crown of the bridle; the mane can grow quickly so trimming the bridle path should be done frequently during the show season.

Overall, this is a polished, elegant pair who are doing a fantastic job of showing off the horse. My critiques are very minor and I am sure that when they step into the ring, the judge knows that they are there to compete.

Many thanks to this week's featured rider for submitting this photo! Readers who would like to participate in a future Turnout Critique may send any photos to showringreadyblog@gmail.com

Judges' Answers to Pony Questions

I was lucky enough to have the chance to chat with a couple of well-respected hunter judges last month, including one who has judged Pony Finals multiple times, and I took the opportunity to ask a few judging-related questions that come up quite often on this blog.

First up is the question of the bows worn in many pony riders' hair: how big is too big? Essentially, if the ribbons cover the number at all then they should be trimmed down. The judge may choose to either eliminate the rider due to the number being unreadable, or they might radio the in-gate and ask that the ribbons be trimmed before the next round. Younger riders with shorter backs will therefore usually need bows that are on the smaller side, especially if they have long hair.

The next question was at what age should the pony rider switch from jodhpurs to tall boots (which is often also the switch from bows to a hairnet if the rider is not already wearing a hairnet)? The answer was that it doesn't really matter, but that it goes along with the question of suitability. If a rider is too big to look appropriate in jodhpurs and bows, they are also probably too big to be riding a small pony, the division in which jodhpurs and bows are most often seen (in addition to the Short Stirrup division in which the rider is generally too young for suitability to be a problem). A small rider on a medium pony can also wear bows and jodhpurs.

This rider is on the large side for this pony, and
would likely look inappropriate in jodhpurs and bows

That led to the question of what are the consequences score-wise for a rider who is too big for her pony in a hunter class? One judge said that she wouldn't deduct from the score, but that if two rounds were similar with one featuring a rider who was too big for her pony, that unsuitable pairing would act as a tiebreaker with the more suitable pair taking the better ribbon.

These are the opinions of only a couple of different judges and as such they don't necessarily reflect the opinions of all judges, but they do offer some guidance as to what might be behind the decisions coming from the judge's booth.

FAQ, Part 14

Is a Happy Mouth or Nathe bit acceptable for the hunter ring?

Yes, it is fairly common to see hunters ridden in white plastic bits. Judges are unlikely to penalize a horse for going in a soft bit, and while the colour can stand out in contrast to the horse and bridle, it is of little consequence on a well-turned-out horse. Bit material is not regulated, provided it is humane.

How can I tell which classes are in a hunter division?

The horse show's prize list should outline which classes are included in each division. Generally, a hunter division will have anywhere from two to four over fences classes as well as one under saddle (flat) class. Certain shows might offer a handy class, a model class, or a stake class as part of a division.

In the prize list or schedule, the jumping classes will usually be denoted by either "over fences" or "o/f" (the class specified as a handy or a stake is also over fences), while the under saddle could be represented by "u/s". For equitation divisions, "on the flat" or "flat" is used in place of "under saddle".

Are flexible stirrups permitted in the hunter ring?

Jointed or flexible stirrups are permitted for hunter classes. For equitation and medal classes in Canada, however, black branches are not permissible (light-coloured branches are fine), though the stirrups may still be jointed. USEF rules allow black joints for equitation classes as long as the entire stirrup iron is not black.

Can you braid just the tail for a hunter class?

Braiding the tail is usually done for especially formal classes, so it is typically done in cases when the mane is already expected to be braided. If the horse show is formal enough to braid anything, the mane should be braided. At schooling shows where braiding is not expected, some riders might practice braiding the tail for fun, but otherwise it is typical to braid either just the mane or both the mane and tail.

Which is better for a hunter, a high or a low score?

When numerical scoring is used in the hunter ring, it is based on an ideal score of 100, so a higher score is a better score.

Grooming the Sensitive Horse

Some horses adore being groomed, while others would much rather be left alone. A thorough daily grooming plays a significant part in producing the deep shine that we aim for on show horses. Not only does it help you keep track of any changes on your horse's body, but it also increases circulation and distributes oil throughout the hair shaft to help produce the desired sheen. For these reasons, even those otherwise healthy horses who don't always enjoy being groomed really do benefit from a modified grooming program.

Sensitive horses often object to the curry comb because of its stiffness. Currying is important for both blood circulation and to bring dirt, dust and sweat up away from the skin. For those horses who dislike even the more jelly-like soft curries, I have found that a cactus cloth mitt can provide a suitable alternative.

Cactus (or sisal) cloth

Cactus cloth is made of natural sisal fibres woven into a textured pattern. Its texture allows it to penetrate deeply into the coat, but it is also very pliable and horses seem to enjoy being groomed with it. It is available on its own or sewn into a convenient mitt, often with fleece on the other side as an extra grooming tool. It can be used in the same circular motion as a curry comb, and horses will often tolerate it on the more sensitive parts of the body that can't be curried normally.

Cactus cloth can be used as an alternative to a curry comb, but it is also a useful grooming tool on its own for actions such as drying and removing sweat.

One downside to using cactus cloth is that it is more difficult to clean than a curry comb, and the fabric can trap dirt and sweat where it can't always be removed with a stiff brush. In addition to regular brushing, it's a good idea to clean your sisal mitt with soap or shampoo when it gets visibly dirty.

Many sensitive horses take a strong dislike to being groomed with a stiff dandy brush. I am not aware of any good alternative to the dandy brush aside from finding the softest bristles that will still do the job, so sometimes all you can do is spend extra time with the curry or cactus mitt and then move directly on to the body brush.

The brush on the left shows the longer "flicking" bristles

I have found that sensitive horses seem to prefer the lighter touch that is possible by using a long-bristled body brush. These brushes have soft bristles that are longer than average, allowing for more of a flicking motion that removes dirt and hair with more flexibility and less direct pressure. It is used with the same long, sweeping motions in the direction of hair growth as you would use with a regular body brush, but with a little bit more of a "flick" at the end of each stroke. 

Some horses might prefer natural bristles over synthetic bristles, but experimentation is required to determine whether this might be contributing to any reactiveness.

Overall, it's fine to adjust your grooming routine to meet an individual horse's needs as long as you are able to find alternatives that will accomplish the same aims. Grooming should be an enjoyable experience for the horse, and if pain or other health-related causes of sensitivity are ruled out, sometimes all that's required is a different set of tools.

Video Roundup

For those who have finished showing for the season, now is the perfect time to practice grooming skills for next year. With so many different how-to videos available on the internet, it can be difficult to know which to follow for instructions, so I've pulled together a selection of videos showing good demonstrations of how to braid, bandage and clip.

All of these skills are best started with the help of an experienced horse person to guide you along, but videos can provide useful preparation, extra tips, or refreshers. 

Wrapping legs

This video does make an error in the direction of bandaging (it should be done, as shown, rather than as said, from the front, around the outside to the back, which is counter-clockwise on the left legs and clockwise on the right), and I prefer to overlap enough not to end up with an extra length of bandage at the end, but it is otherwise a very good demonstration of bandaging a leg. For shipping wraps, purchase a size larger for the cottons and allow the extra cotton to cover the pastern, and then leave just a little bit exposed at the top and bottom after wrapping as you would for a standing bandage (as shown in this video). As far as tightness goes, the bandage should be snug but you should still be able to insert a finger or two between the bandage and the leg.

Hunter Braids (Mane)

The tricks here are mostly to not use too much hair per section, to keep the braid straight while braiding, to braid each section to the same length as the others, and to pull the braid straight up with your pull-through.

Tail Braiding

It takes a lot of patience to learn how to braid a tail, so this one requires a lot of practice both to get the hang of handling all of those strands while keeping them tight, and also to take many small bunches for an elegant look rather than using more hair to get to the end more quickly.

Body Clipping

This is a good overall video, but personally I prefer to overlap my strokes more to prevent lines, and I try to keep all electrical cords safely against the wall away from the horse's legs except for the small section that I need at any given moment.

For those who don't wish to do a full clip, the next video demonstrates very nicely how to clip lines, and it also provides an excellent demonstration of clipping smoothly with an overlap between strokes, and always following the opposite direction of the hair growth.

Turnout Critique #16

This installment of Turnout Critique features a lovely rider and her grey horse who present an excellent example of good show ring turnout.

Photo used with photographer's permission

Grey horses present an extra challenge for good turnout because their hair stains so easily and is difficult to keep white enough not to look yellow in comparison to white saddle pads and clothing. This horse has been very thoroughly bathed and shows no yellow spots anywhere, not even on the more easily-stained parts of the body such as the legs (there is some reflection of the footing colour on his underside, which just gives the illusion of dirty patches). I suspect that if we could see the tail, the sections that aren't dark hair would be as white as possible, too. This indicates a dedication to frequent bathings to keep such stains from setting.

The mane is neatly braided in the appropriate hunter style, though the contrast between the light body and the dark mane allow us to see that some of the braids have been rubbed slightly. If this horse tends to be a braid rubber, keeping a slinky neck cover on until it's time to tack up could help to reduce the number of damaged braids. 

The tack all appears to be perfectly clean, and the bridle demonstrates proper adjustment; the noseband is set high enough to flatter this horse's face, while the throatlatch is the right length to do its job without being so short that it tightens against the throat, or so long that it swings forward under the cheeks. A D-ring bit such as this one is always an attractive option for a hunter.

I can't tell whether the marks in front of the girth are this horse's colouring or the result of girth rubs. If they are the latter, I would suggest using a girth cover between shows to help prevent them from developing.

The clean saddle pad is nicely chosen to suit the size and shape of the saddle flaps, with the maximum two inches of pad showing evenly all the way around. The excess stirrup leather is slightly longer than I would prefer to see it; ideally it would be three or four inches shorter, or tucked back under the saddle flap.

The hooves are oiled nicely to look clean and tidy, while also showing off how clean the white legs are. This horse has been neatly trimmed, both on the face and the legs, and he and his rider have both obviously been wiped down with a towel before going into the ring to remove any last-minute slobber or warm-up ring dust.

This rider is neatly and conservatively dressed in the appropriate manner for the hunter ring. Her jacket is well-fitted and is the ideal length for her in both the body and the arms. For a more formal occasion I would suggest a darker jacket, but the light grey colour is perfectly appropriate for a regular hunter class. The jacket is accompanied by a classic white show shirt and the appropriate beige breeches with a belt. Her boots are beautifully fitted, coming all the way up to the knee with enough height left over to give lots of flexibility in the ankle area. I would prefer to see more polish to the boots, but it's possible that the lack of shine is due mostly to the cloudiness of the day.

Her clean black gloves and helmet are both very good choices, and her hair is neatly contained in a hairnet in the hunter fashion. I wonder whether this rider's number is tied further above her natural waist than is usual, but the angle of the photo could make the line deceiving.

Overall this rider has done a lovely job of presenting herself and her horse to look their best.

Thank you to this week's featured rider for submitting this photo! Anyone who would like to participate in a future Turnout Critique can send one or more photos to showringreadyblog@gmail.com

Turnout Critique #15

This week's featured horse and rider are doing a lot right already. Our rider should find that a few minor changes to further refine their turnout will have a big impact on the overall picture.

I'm told that this horse usually goes in a front riser pad due to high withers, but he wears a half pad on top of a shaped pad for showing. While this is slightly more attractive than a foam riser pad, it still looks very bulky. Ideally the saddle fit would be such that extra padding wouldn't be necessary. Additional pads can actually make fit tighter, like wearing two pairs of socks, so taking the pressure off one area with extra padding can sometimes make the fit worse elsewhere. For showing, I would consider using the shaped pad with a small pommel pad just over the withers instead of a half pad; this arrangement is fairly common in the hunter ring and adds discrete padding without being bulky. They are available in various forms, from knitted/crochet to fleece to foam, and they can even be done in barn colours because the pommel pad is essentially invisible with the saddle over top. If the saddle fitter agrees with this set-up, losing the bulky half pad will go a long way towards enhancing their turnout. The shaped pad looks like it would probably suit the shape of the saddle nicely in this set-up with just an inch or two of pad showing evenly all the way around.

The bridle is quite thin for this large-boned horse, who could benefit from wider straps to give the illusion of a smaller head. The noseband is also adjusted a little bit low; bringing it up so that it rests an inch or two below the cheek bones would also make his head look more refined by shortening the distance between the browband and the noseband. In the same vein, this large-boned type of horse would benefit from a bit with bigger rings, such as a Hunter Dee bit, though obviously the horse's response to any type of bit is the most important factor. The bridle looks to be clean and in good repair.

The girth does not appear to be as clean as the rest of the tack. The outside of the girth receives dirt and sweat transferred from the rider's boots and the horse's elbow, so it's one piece of tack that really should be cleaned between classes if there is a break.

I am impressed by how white the leg markings are considering they do not appear to have been clipped. Brushing them and possibly applying baby powder or corn starch prior to entering the show ring would help to eliminate the slight brown tinge just above the hooves, and clipping the legs would make the whole process much easier. The white markings would be set off nicely by applying a fresh coat of hoof oil to the feet just before entering the show ring.

Frequent readers of the blog have probably noticed the presence of my pet peeve, the too-long excess stirrup leather. This should either be trimmed or tucked back under the saddle flap to keep it from swinging around and distracting both the judge and the horse. The stirrup irons are a classic style appropriate for both hunter and equitation classes.

This horse has been braided in the hunter style, but over the course of the show day several of the braids have been rubbed out of place. There are a few different ways to prevent this from happening. The first is to make sure that the mane is very clean prior to braiding; this will dissuade the horse from rubbing the braids out himself. Next, when pulling the braids up, make sure that you are inserting the pull-through perfectly parallel to the braid. Any tiny angle will encourage the braids to move out of place. Finally, the shorter the braids, the more sturdy they will be. Long braids leave a tail that can be easily moved around, whereas the bottom of short braids is very close to the knot, making them much more secure.

The tail appears to be flowing nicely as if it has been fully brushed out. For a thick tail like this, the easiest way to keep it from getting clumpy is to shampoo it frequently since dirty hairs tend to stick together, and then brush it out all the way from top to bottom before every class on a show day.

This horse's coat shines deeply, showing that he is well-cared-for. Based on this photo, it looks as though he could use a little bit more weight to cover his ribs better and suit his heavier build. I am also slightly concerned about his feet, which appear to be somewhat chipped. Jumping can be hard on feet and it's possible that this horse might feel more comfortable in shoes, though of course it's impossible to tell from a photo and he could be doing perfectly well barefoot.

Our rider is neatly dressed in suitable conservative attire for the hunter ring. The sleeves of the jacket are too short, but it is very difficult to find a jacket with extra-long sleeves for a long-armed rider off the rack without going custom. The jacket seems to be very clean and nicely fitted through the body, though the overall length might be just a tiny bit short (though in two-point position it is difficult to say for sure). For her next jacket, this rider might consider finding a brand that offers a tall option if her current jacket isn't a "tall" already.

Her breeches are an appropriate beige colour and are again very clean. While her field boots are beautifully fitted, they sport a layer of dust that should in future be wiped off at the in-gate.

The helmet is again a good conservative choice, though at least one big cluster of hair has escaped containment to detract from the overall neatness. It is nice, however, to see a chin strap that appears to be properly fitted instead of hanging too low to be of any use. The rider's black leather or leather-like gloves are also a very appropriate choice for hunter or equitation classes.

It appears that the nostrils and mouth have been wiped off prior to the horse entering the ring, which is very good. It's at this point that the rider's boots should also be included in the towelling.

A few of my suggestions in this critique have involved what to look for when replacing certain pieces of tack or attire in the future. None of these purchases need to be made immediately; they are simply recommendations for what would complement this particular horse or rider that much better when those items do need to be replaced. The remaining suggestions really are very minor changes that will make this pair look that much more professional.

Thank you very much to this week's featured rider for sending this photo in for a critique! Riders interested in being featured in future turnout critiques can e-mail their photos to showringreadyblog@gmail.com

Fixing an Equine Bad Hair Day

With horses being horses, the only time when you are likely to see a large section of rumpled hair on your horse will be on a show morning. Depending on how your horse lies down overnight, the hair can get bent backwards and if it stays that way, you'll be faced with a fuzzy-looking patch of hair that won't brush back to straightness. Left as is, this will detract from the sleek, shiny coat that you've worked so hard to produce for the show ring.

Thankfully, the solution is easy, though it needs to be done early enough to give the hair time to dry before your classes.

Like human hair, horse hair reverts to straightness when it's wet. The solution, therefore, is to wet the hair, brush it straight and then brush it again once it has dried (a really bad case might benefit from an additional brushing or two while it's still a bit damp).

If you've ever tried wetting the hair and haven't found any improvement, odds are that you didn't wet it thoroughly enough. The hair needs to be soaked down to the skin, coating the entire shaft, so it requires either a sponge that hasn't been wrung out, or a bath. If you have a grey horse, rumpled hair shouldn't be a problem because your morning bathing routine should easily take care of it. If your horse doesn't require a full bath, just take a clean sponge saturated with clean water and really scrub it into the area.

Once the hair is wet, brush the hair straight with a stiff brush. The stiffness will allow the bristles of the brush to reach down to the entire length of the hair. Depending on the severity of the bent hair, you might need to brush it straight again a few times while it's drying and then give it a final smoothing out once it has dried fully.

If you're in a hurry to get to your class you can spray some rubbing alcohol onto the wet spot to help speed up the drying process. If you're in no rush, the alcohol is unnecessary and is likely to do more harm than good by drying out the hair and skin.

If the bent hair is a result of the horse rubbing against the wall or a bucket, the hair can be more damaged than it would have been from the horse simply lying down on it, and it might therefore require the wetting process to be repeated to bring the hair back to its former straightness.

Hair Net Choices

As more hair net options become available, it can be difficult to know which one to choose without buying and trying them all. Hair nets marketed towards riders are generally thicker and more durable than ordinary hair nets that you might find elsewhere. There are currently three different types of equestrian hair nets (excluding "show bows", which are a big no-no in the hunter/jumper world!), each with their advantages and disadvantages. No type is perfect (unless you're not at all sensitive to knot pressure), so cost, comfort and ease of use need to be weighed against one another while making a choice.

Colour-wise, you should pick one that is closest to your hair colour as the goal is not to have the hair net itself stand out. If there is no exact match, a hairnet that is slightly lighter or darker that your hair colour is not likely to attract attention.

Two-Knot Hair Nets

Two-knot hair nets are the most traditional, they are easy to find and they tend to be the cheapest option available. Having two knots gathering the material makes for a hair net that is essentially the same shape all the way around to keep the hair fairly well-contained without any looser areas to puff out from under the helmet. They are available in a variety of colours to match most hair colours.

Advantages:

• Inexpensive
• Available in practically every tack shop
• Even stretch all the way around
• Available in a variety of colours

Disadvantages:

• Knots can cause pressure points under a helmet
• Don't contain hair well once the net has stretched

One-Knot Hair Nets

One knot hair nets are similar to the two-knot ones but have the advantage of one less pressure point, so you can choose a neutral location to position the knot at. Because of that, however, all the material is gathered at just one end, which creates a more baggy shape, especially as the weave loosens with wear.

Advantages:

• Single knot can be placed where it won't cause a pressure point
• Relatively inexpensive

Disadvantages:

• Single knot causes the shape to be more baggy even before any stretching occurs

No-Knot Hair Nets

No knot hair nets are the newest on the equestrian market, and essentially consist of a wide band that goes around the head, leaving it open on top. They hold the hair tightest and make it easier to style the hair by holding everything in place against the head. For some, using a hair elastic might not even be necessary and they come with a handy storage pouch to keep them away from things like velcro and shavings that can ruin hairnets. Colour choice is the weakness here, with the colours either very light or very dark, and the packaging appears to be a bit misleading colour-wise.

A no-knot hairnet in its pouch (this
is the so-called "medium-brown")

Advantages:

• No pressure points
• Seemingly more robust netting
• Holds hair more closely against the head 
• Allows the hair to be put up without having to lean over
• Comes with protective bag to help it last longer

Disadvantages:

• Comparatively much more expensive
• The band fits more tightly than the band of a traditional hair net
• Colour options are limited (good for either very light or very dark hair)
• Opaque packaging makes it difficult to find the correct colour
• The band is fairly wide, which could make it blend in to your hair less easily

Turnout Critique #12

The first Turnout Critique submission of 2014 is a lovely example of good hunter turnout, with only a handful of minor improvements that could be made.

This horse is in good condition and is groomed thoroughly on a regular basis, as evidenced by the deep shine of his coat. If anything, he might be a little bit too fat, but jumping photos can sometimes be deceiving in that respect. He appears to be quite hot and sweaty, and could possibly benefit from being clipped if this show did not take place on an unusually hot day. The braids are nicely done as far as the photo shows.

All of the white markings have clearly been meticulously cleaned, and this good work would be highlighted by a fresh application of hoof oil to the feet.

The tack all appears to be properly fitted, clean and in good repair. The noseband would flatter the face better if it were put up a hole or two so that it sits just one finger's width below the cheekbone. We are often fooled into judging the size of the head by the length from the browband to the noseband, so the noseband should be kept up near the cheekbones to minimize this distance (bridles stretch over time, therefore this should be checked every so often).

The saddle pad is just the right shape for this saddle, with a very acceptable 1 1/2 inches of pad showing all the way around the edges. The excess length of stirrup leather is just short enough to be tidy without needing to be tucked or trimmed. The tack is a great example of not needing to have everything in the exact same colour. The saddle and girth match, making neither stand out to the eye. The martingale and bridle are darker in colour, but since they are on a separate part of the horse and are in a similar colour family to the saddle, nothing stands out as being different.

This rider is beautifully dressed in well-fitted beige breeches, belt, dark jacket, white show shirt with the now-common wrap collar and conservative black gloves. Her hair is neatly contained in the hunter style and she sports an appropriately conservative helmet by today's standards. My only problem is with her boots, which don't show the high shine of a pair that have been recently polished. She could also ask a groom to brush off the bottoms of her boots after she mounts for a cleaner look. The boots appear to be made of a thin, supple leather, which produces a lovely slim profile but could also require extra time spent polishing due to the leather's more porous surface.

The quality of this horse and rider combination is so high that any turnout faults are very minor. This rider appears to be a great example of someone who puts a strong effort into presenting herself well in front of the judges.

Many thanks to this week's featured rider for putting herself forward for a critique!

Any readers who are interested in being featured in a future edition of Turnout Critique can send photos to showringreadyblog@gmail.com

FAQ, Part 12

How do you read distances on a hunter course diagram?

The distances on a course diagram for the hunter ring are usually written in feet rather than in strides. This allows you to see which lines are set shorter or longer than others (those heading towards the in-gate will generally be slightly longer to account for the horses being more eager to head "home"). If you memorize the multiples of 12, or whichever stride length your division is likely to be set at, you can quickly convert a 60 foot line into four strides, 72 feet to five strides, 84 feet to six strides, etc.

What should you do with the string on a fly veil?

A well-fitted fly veil with enough space
behind the ears for the bridle to sit upon

If the fly veil has a sufficiently wide piece behind the ears for the crown of the bridle to sit upon, the long string provided to keep the fly veil tied in place should be cut off. Quality fly veils generally do not come with these strings because they aren't needed to keep a well-designed bonnet on the head.

If you wish to compete using a fly veil that comes with a string, try riding with the string simply tucked away and not tied. If it stays in place, you should be able to safely cut the string off without worrying about your bonnet flying away. If your bridle does not keep the fly veil in place on its own, I would suggest keeping that one just for schooling and finding a different bonnet for showing. There are no rules against wrapping the string around the throat latch to tie a fly bonnet in place, but I find it messy-looking and distracting (and not wrapping the string puts you at risk of tying it too tightly).

What should you do if there is a loose horse?

The answer will depend on what the loose horse is doing and how your own horse tends to behave. Many recommendations call for dismounting your own horse, but that could lead to multiple loose horses if your horse gets spooked and pulls away from you. My preference in a warm-up ring is to stay mounted unless your horse is behaving in a dangerous way that could result in a bad fall. The exception to this is if the loose horse is a stallion and you are riding a mare. The safest place for the rider of a mare when there is a loose stallion around is off of the mare's back, so ride as far away from the stallion as you safely can and then dismount. You should not attempt to exit an enclosed area if opening the gate would risk the loose horse also getting out.

If those on the ground are having trouble catching the horse and you know that your horse is well-behaved in close proximity to other horses, you may attempt to calm and catch the loose horse by riding slowly towards it.

In the show ring, a loose horse can be contained in the ring until it is caught, and there is usually little danger to other horses if there is only one horse in the ring at a time (unless the horse jumps out of the ring, which will simply result in the above warm-up ring scenario). If a horse becomes loose during a flat class, you should listen for instructions from the judge as you remain under the judge's orders.

If you hear a call of "loose horse" in the stabling area, be on the alert. Loose horses can charge down aisles without notice and without regard for who or what might be in their way.

Which horse shoes are legal for showing in the hunter ring?

As far as I am aware, there are no rules in Canada about shoeing for the hunter ring (though it is always a good idea to double-check, and to check any local rules as well). The judge is unlikely to notice what is underneath your horse's feet while you are cantering by, anyway, so if a horse requires special shoeing (for example, an egg bar shoe), it is unlikely to be a factor in a performance class. It's possible that in a class judged on conformation a judge might take unconventional shoeing into account if it indicates that the horse has problems, but that would be at the individual judge's discretion and you could simply avoid entering such classes if your horse is shod specially. In the US, light pads and bar shoes are explicitly allowed, but it is noted that such shoes might count against horses in Conformation classes.

Steel and aluminum are both popular materials; many hunters are shod in aluminum because the shoes are lighter and therefore allow the horse to move better.

Avoid using hoof boots for hunter classes. While I am not aware of a rule that explicitly forbids them, they could fall under the general category of boots, and are unconventional on top of that. Hoof boots have a very obvious look and sound that would be difficult for any judge to miss.

FAQ, Part 11

Are red jackets appropriate attire for the jumper ring?

The answer depends on what colour the national team jacket is in your country. If the team wears red, it's a faux-pas to wear the same colour that those team members have worked so hard to earn. The same applies for non-red team jacket colours in other countries as well, though some countries use common jacket colours that are distinguished by coloured collars or patches.

Brightly-coloured show jackets are becoming more and more popular in the jumper ring, making colours like red more widely available than they used to be. As a result, you will occasionally see a rider wearing the same colour as the national team, but while it is not against the rules in every country, it is still frowned upon by most. Check the rules of your national federation before you go out shopping, and do your best to avoid the same colour combination as your national team (both jacket and collar) even if it isn't explicitly written in the rule book.

How can I keep the cheeks on my hackamore bridle from going into my horse's eyes?

This is a common problem with hackamores, exacerbated by the curb action that can swing a seemingly well-fitted bridle towards the eyes.

If your hackamore is adjustable, you can try making it wider so that the cheek pieces attach further away from the bridge of the nose, bringing them slightly away from the eyes as well.

If your hackamore is a fixed size, the trick is to tie the cheek pieces away from the eyes by adding a string or strap to the bridle. Simply tie a piece of conservatively-coloured string (number string works well, or anything else like a shoe lace that isn't likely to rub) from about halfway up one cheekpiece, under the jaw and up around to the other cheekpiece. Make it tight enough to keep the cheekpieces out of the eyes, but not so tight that it will rub or restrict the horse in any way. A leather strap of an appropriate length could also be used to the same purpose (spur straps, a shortened bradoon hanger, etc.).

If you do a Google image search for Russel Skelton Royal Fair, a couple of examples will pop up showing what the set-up should look like.

Why aren't hunter score sheets made public?

Quite simply, most people would not understand them if they were. Unlike dressage with its single score sheet per horse and myriad comments, a hunter class is scored with only one line of symbols and notes per horse, necessitating the use of symbols that each judge finds fastest and easiest to use, and which can vary from judge to judge. Because hunter judges don't have scribes, this system allows the judge to keep as much focus on the horse as possible with minimal writing and no delays between rounds for writing comments, as well as the ability to compare rounds quickly without flipping pages.

Any comments are usually more for the judge to remember the round for comparing scoring than to comment on every aspect of it, while the more obvious symbols such as the shape of each jump should have been felt and seen by the rider and coach, anyway.

Which type of hair net is the correct choice for the hunter ring?

There are three categories of hair net marketed for riding: traditional two-knot hair nets, one-knot hair nets, and no-knot hair nets. The two-knot hair nets can be uncomfortable because of the multiple knots, but this also keeps them tighter and less baggy than the more comfortable one-knot type (no pressure points if the knot is put in the back but the hair net can puff outwards if not tucked in). No-knot hair nets are like bands, open at the top of the head.

Because only the edge of the hair net will ever show under your helmet anyway, there is no one correct choice. Choose the option that is most comfortable for you while still allowing you to keep your hair neatly contained.

What should I do if the zipper on my boot breaks?

If your federation's rules allow you to compete in your schooling paddock boots and half chaps, you can switch to those if you are able to clean and polish them to show ring standards.

If you don't have a back-up set of boots with you, you can use electrical or duct tape (preferably black) wrapped around the boot to keep it closed. Zippers tend to break at the worst possible times, so black tape is a good thing to have in your tack box just in case. Try to have the zipper repaired as soon as you can, but everyone is likely to be understanding of inconspicuous tape in the meantime because it has happened to so many.

Studs 101

Disclaimer:  If you have never used screw-in studs (aka caulks, aka corks) before, and even if you have, they should be employed under the guidance of your farrier and/or trainer. Adding studs to your horse's shoes will change the way that the feet move across the ground, making it very important not to over-stud, and it's possible to damage a shoe or your horse's foot by putting them in improperly. For these reasons, I strongly recommend that you use this post only as a reference while getting hands-on help from a horse person who you trust.

Your stud kit

Some tack shops sell ready-made stud kits, which can be convenient but could make it difficult for you to grow your stud collection or store additional tools. It isn't difficult to assemble your own kit.

A stud kit

For your stud kit, you will first need a box in which to store everything. It's best to keep everything together so that you don't end up missing a vital component when you're away from home. Plastic tackle boxes work extremely well for stud kits; they come in a variety of sizes, often with removable dividers that will allow you to keep the studs grouped appropriately.

A stud hole cleaner

Next, you will need a stud hole cleaner. Some riders prefer to just use a horse shoe nail to clean the holes, but I appreciate having the wire brush as well to make the holes even cleaner. They are very inexpensive and are available at most tack shops.

A T-tap (left) and a hardware store
tap (right) with homemade handle

You will also need a tap. They come in a variety of shapes, from the traditional t-tap to the more modern safety taps. You can even purchase taps from hardware stores, in which case you'll need to bring along a stud or tack store tap to check for the correct size with the store's thread checker. I have found that these taps are much sharper/more effective, but for that reason might not be ideal for someone starting out who might cross-thread more often. You'll also need to purchase or create a handle for a hardware store tap (which allows just the tap section to be replaced when it wears out).

Next on the list is at least one wrench. Adjustable wrenches work well if you have studs of different widths, or you can just keep a plain wrench on hand of each size that you need so that there's no need to fiddle. Do not use vise grips as these will strip the edges from your studs and eventually give you nothing to grab onto to get them out of the shoes!

Another item that you should keep on hand is some sort of oil or specially-formulated stud soap to keep the studs in good shape. I just use WD-40.

Your horse will need to be shod, preferably in steel as opposed to softer aluminum shoes that will not maintain their threads as well. You will need to ask your farrier to drill holes for the studs in the shoes before they're put on your horse's feet (there is usually an extra charge for this).

Last but not least, you'll need the studs themselves, available from most tack shops. You'll want to start with enough of each type/size that you think you might need for either two or all four shoes, as well as a couple of extras for when those get lost (with studs, it's always a "when" and not an "if").

There are some extra items that you can purchase, such as a magnetic stud dish or arm band to lessen the chances of dropping/losing a stud, but the basics that I listed above should get you by easily.

Choosing studs

Studs can be roughly divided into four categories, depending on their shape and size, although there is a lot of overlap between categories. Most horses will not need a wide variety of studs as the larger ones are typically used for extreme footing/terrain or horses that really need that extra grip for the bigger jumps. Your coach or farrier should be able to suggest the best types for your horse and the particular footing that you expect to contend with.

Usually the studs on the front shoes will be smaller than on the back to minimize injury, both to the horse's stomach and to the legs (a belly pad girth will help to protect the stomach from front studs). The hind end requires the most traction anyway and there is less potential for injury when using bigger studs there, though a horse can still puncture itself by stepping on one hind foot with the other. You can use different studs of similar height on the same foot if you want to have something sharper on the outside, but it's necessary to try to keep the forces on the foot as even as possible when doing so.

Road studs

These are only a few millimetres high and give just a small amount of traction. Because they are small, they don't change the horse's way of going very much and are less likely than other types to cause injury. They are often used for the front shoes when nothing bigger is required.

Grass tips

Grass tips are narrow, pointy studs that can bite into fairly hard ground. Because they are so sharp, they are risky to use on the inside branch of the horse shoe where the horse might accidentally step on itself.

Bullets

Bullets are a good general-purpose stud because they are fairly pointy, enabling them to grab into the footing, while having enough surface area that they can provide some traction in deep or wet footing. They also come in many different heights to suit a variety of purposes.


Blocks

Blocks are fairly blunt, square-ish studs intended to provide a lot of surface area for the horse to push against in soft or muddy footing. They're less likely to draw blood if a horse missteps than the sharper options but they don't have the same ability to sink into and grab more solid footing. They may or may not have a small tip.

Inserting studs

The first thing you'll need to do is clean the holes. If possible, have the horse on clean, hard ground so that you won't lose all of your hard work if the horse pulls its foot away from you. Otherwise, you'll need to go through every step one foot at a time without putting the foot down in order to keep the holes clean.

With the nail end of your stud hole cleaner, loosen up the dirt in each stud hole, flinging as much out of the hole as you can. Once that's done, turn the tool around and twist the wire brush into the hole. Give it a turn or two at the bottom and then twist it out again. If there is any large debris left in the hole (a small piece of gravel, etc.), keep cleaning until you get it out.

Next, you'll need to use your tap. If you use studs frequently it might not be necessary to tap every time, but you aren't likely to be able to avoid it otherwise. The tap will clean up the threads of the stud hole, which can get damaged by dirt and other debris, while also clearing out any dirt that the wire brush missed. Insert the tap so that it is in line with the hole, never at an angle, and gently allow the threads to catch. Don't force it or you risk cross-threading and potentially ruining the hole. Turn the tap just until you encounter resistance; go any further and you risk hurting your horse's hoof.

It's extremely important not to allow the horse to put its foot down while the tap is screwed in (even safety taps could potentially bend slightly in such a case). Not only could the tap get jammed up into the hoof, but it could also damage the stud hole enough to get itself stuck or to make it difficult to screw a stud in later. As soon as you feel resistance, unscrew the tap without delay.

At this point, the hole should be ready for a stud. You can clean the holes ahead of time and plug them to make inserting the studs easier later (for example, to allow the horse to trailer without studs or to keep your show clothes clean), or you can immediately insert the studs.

To insert a stud, simply align your chosen stud with the hole and gently screw it in at least one turn by hand. This will keep the stud from falling out of the hole while you fasten the wrench. Attach the wrench and tighten the stud until it's snug (if your hole and stud are clean, there should not be a gap left between the shoe and the base of the stud). If you don't tighten enough, the stud could work its way loose during your ride and come off, while over-tightening can make it difficult to get the studs out again without torquing your horse's foot.

To remove a stud, simply reverse the process: use the wrench to loosen the stud until you can do the final turns by hand to avoid the stud flying off. You will need to clean the studs before the dirt hardens (the wire brush on your stud hole cleaner works well for this, as well as the nail for scraping the corners) and then oil them to keep them from rusting. Some people prefer to use a product such as Stud Suds to immerse their studs in a cleaning/lubricating solution, but I like to just put my clean studs back into their section of the box and give them a spray of WD-40. Close the lid, shake the box gently, and you'll end up with evenly-coated studs without you having to handle them while they're really oily. You can fit a small piece of paper towel to the bottom of each section of studs to absorb any excess oil.

It's important to remove the studs promptly when they're no longer needed to keep the stress on the horse's tendons to a minimum (studs on hard ground change the hoof angle in addition to changing how the hoof moves across the ground), as well as to prevent injuries from the horse stepping on itself.

If you wish to use plugs, there are several options available:

There are screw-in metal blanks that can be inserted and removed with an Allen key, the most expensive option initially and a risk if you lose your Allen key or if they get stuck from a lack of grease.

Foam, rubber and cotton plugs are all disposable and each has its pros and cons. There doesn't seem to be a consensus on which works best so you'll need to judge for yourself. I use the foam ones as I find that they keep the holes clean and are fairly easy to remove in one piece. Whichever you use, try to remove them from the edge rather than from the middle to prevent ripping them apart or pushing them deeper (a nail works well to lever them out).

If you use disposable plugs, keep in mind that they can fall out or get pushed deeper into the hole over time, so they work best overnight or for just a couple of days.

When to replace studs

A road stud in good shape (left)
compared to one that is worn out (right)

Studs last a very long time; most of the studs that are pictured here are almost ten years old and many riders have studs in their boxes that have been around for far longer. If you take care of them and don't use them daily or on hard, abrasive ground, they should last you a long time.

If your studs have a sharp tip, that's the part that is most likely to wear out first. Alternately, using improper tools, like vise grips, can ruin the edges of your studs and make them difficult to grab onto with a wrench, requiring the studs to be replaced. The threads are usually well-protected by the shoe and aren't likely to wear out very quickly unless they're allowed to rust. A quick visual examination after each use should be enough to tell you what sort of shape your studs are in because there isn't much else to watch out for.