How to Attach a Lead Shank to the Bit

A leather lead shank can be a very useful tool to have at shows. Not only is it an attractive option for leading potentially unruly horses, but it can be used with either a halter or a bridle.

When leading a horse to or from the show ring, using a lead chain instead of leading by the reins means that if the horse somehow gets loose, there won't be a loop of reins hanging down that could get caught in a leg. A lead shank is also generally longer than a rein which makes it easier for a groom to move around the horse as needed.

There are lead shanks designed specifically to be used with a bit, often called a jumper lead shank or a Newmarket shank. These offer a split-chain design, with a clip on each of two short lengths of chain for each of the bit rings. When multiple lead shanks are not a priority, however, a standard lead chain can easily be used with either a halter or a bridle.

Neither of these
is ideal









The most common mistake when using a standard chain is attaching it to only one side of the bit. With this set-up, pulling on the lead will result in the horse turning in a circle towards the handler rather than slowing down or stopping, as all of the pressure is pulling the left side of the bit to the outside. It may work for some situations in which the lead needs to be removed quickly, such as when leading a difficult horse through the in-gate, but it is not ideal for general use.

Doubling the chain over will allow the handler to safely maintain a shorter feel on the lead if the chain is too long, but the same circling problem will continue to occur.

The most correct way to use a standard chain shank with a bit is what is shown in the photo above. The chain is passed up through one of the bit rings, run under the chin, back out through the other bit ring, and then it's clipped back onto itself at the base of the chain. With this set-up, pulling on the lead will exert pressure on both sides of the mouth, keeping the horse from turning into the handler instead of stopping. Turning ability still exists, and most horses will follow the direction that their handler takes anyway without requiring direction from the lead shank.

This method of attachment is especially important to use for any type of bit that might slide through the mouth if too much pressure is exerted on one side, such as a loose ring or a bit with particularly small cheek pieces.

With the reins flipped safely over the neck and out of the way, attaching the lead chain in this triangle configuration ensures consistent and predictable control, which is very important when navigating busy paths and hitching rings.

Unusual Tack: The Bib Martingale

by Clément Bucco-Lechat - Own work.
Licenced under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

The bib martingale looks very strange if you have never seen one before. It is essentially a running martingale in which the space between the two split straps is filled in with a triangular piece of leather.

As with many pieces of tack, there are those who use the bib martingale because of the look, rather than for any particular practical reason. For others, however, there are some legitimate reasons why a rider might choose the bib martingale over the more standard running martingale.

The construction of the bib martingale results in no loose straps. For a mouthy horse who will sometimes over-flex, this means that there are no straps that the horse could grab onto and potentially catch in the mouth. For a horse like this, the bib martingale not only protects the martingale from damage by the teeth, but it can also prevent serious accidents associated with the horse getting caught and panicking.

by Clément Bucco-Lechat - Own
work. Licenced under CC BY-SA
3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

In the racing world, bib martingales can also act similarly to an Irish martingale in keeping the reins from potentially flipping over the head, though that is an unlikely occurrence in the jumper world.

One downside to the bib martingale is that it prevents the rider from using an opening rein (moving the hand away from the neck in the direction of a turn without pulling back) because the reins are held close together by the bib. It's possible that in some instances the rider might find it easier to keep the horse straight due to the channeling of the reins in this manner, though steering might be negatively affected.

Because the bib martingale is essentially a modified running martingale, it should be adjusted in the same way as a running martingale (as a rough guide, it should be long enough for the rings to reach the bottom of the throat latch when the martingale is pulled up with the horse standing relaxed).

by Clément Bucco-Lechat - Own
work. Licenced under CC BY-SA
3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Unusual Tack: The Waterford Bit

The "Unusual Tack" feature aims to bring to light or describe lesser-known or frequently misunderstood pieces of tack.

The Waterford bit can be controversial, but what can't be argued is that it is a fairly popular bit in the hunter ring. To the outside observer it might appear to be an uncommon equipment choice, but D-ring cheeks can hide many a different mouthpiece!

The Waterford is a four-jointed bit, unlike the two joints of the french link or the one joint of a regular single-jointed snaffle. Because there are four joints, the bit is very flexible. This can make it a good choice for horses who tend to lean down onto the bit because there is no solid piece for the horse to hang onto.

The allegations of harshness likely have to do with the possibility for the mouthpiece to wrap around the shape of the lower jaw if too much pressure is applied without release. Any bit will become harsh if used by harsh hands, but special care should be taken with the Waterford to avoid its use by uneducated hands not because it is an inherently harsh bit, but because its construction has the potential to offer the horse no relief from pressure in the case of heavy hands. Because many horses will learn to lean on a rider's heavy hands, rider education can sometimes be a better solution than a switch to the Waterford bit.

Its popularity in the hunter ring likely lies in the typically low way of going favoured for hunters, which can occasionally transition from long and low to downright heaviness. A Waterford can provide a gentle reminder to a heavier-travelling horse to lighten its forehand when used by a considerate rider. Combined with the light contact favoured in the hunter ring, the Waterford in theory can be a gentler choice than a bit that would require more pressure, constant reminders or increased leverage.

Stubben Waterford Max Relax

For those concerned about the placement of the joints near the corners of the mouth, at least one company now makes a three-jointed version of the Waterford which provides a longer length of attachment from the joints to the bit rings.

FAQ, Part 14

Is a Happy Mouth or Nathe bit acceptable for the hunter ring?

Yes, it is fairly common to see hunters ridden in white plastic bits. Judges are unlikely to penalize a horse for going in a soft bit, and while the colour can stand out in contrast to the horse and bridle, it is of little consequence on a well-turned-out horse. Bit material is not regulated, provided it is humane.

How can I tell which classes are in a hunter division?

The horse show's prize list should outline which classes are included in each division. Generally, a hunter division will have anywhere from two to four over fences classes as well as one under saddle (flat) class. Certain shows might offer a handy class, a model class, or a stake class as part of a division.

In the prize list or schedule, the jumping classes will usually be denoted by either "over fences" or "o/f" (the class specified as a handy or a stake is also over fences), while the under saddle could be represented by "u/s". For equitation divisions, "on the flat" or "flat" is used in place of "under saddle".

Are flexible stirrups permitted in the hunter ring?

Jointed or flexible stirrups are permitted for hunter classes. For equitation and medal classes in Canada, however, black branches are not permissible (light-coloured branches are fine), though the stirrups may still be jointed. USEF rules allow black joints for equitation classes as long as the entire stirrup iron is not black.

Can you braid just the tail for a hunter class?

Braiding the tail is usually done for especially formal classes, so it is typically done in cases when the mane is already expected to be braided. If the horse show is formal enough to braid anything, the mane should be braided. At schooling shows where braiding is not expected, some riders might practice braiding the tail for fun, but otherwise it is typical to braid either just the mane or both the mane and tail.

Which is better for a hunter, a high or a low score?

When numerical scoring is used in the hunter ring, it is based on an ideal score of 100, so a higher score is a better score.

How to Fix a Squeaky Bit

Bits with hinged cheek pieces, such as D-rings, full cheeks and eggbutts, can develop a squeak over time. While the squeakiness doesn't interfere with the action of the bit, the sound made as the horse chews the bit can be annoying, while also potentially bringing attention at shows to a horse who over-chews the bit.

Because the bit cheeks come into such close contact with the horse's mouth, especially when a lot of saliva is produced, using a lubricant that isn't food-grade is a risk. Thankfully, there is an inexpensive food-grade solution that should help in most cases, and you likely already have it in your feed room or kitchen.

The simplest solution is to place a drop of vegetable oil (I have had great success with canola oil, but other common vegetable oils such as corn oil, soybean oil, etc., should also work) on each gap in the hinge. The oil will spread quickly, so it's important to move the hinge back and forth to work each drop of oil in before it drips off the bit. Repeat this for each gap, and then hang up the bridle to allow the oil some time to spread through the entire hinge before riding.

If this method doesn't stop the squeaking, it might be necessary to leave the bit to soak in a dish of your chosen vegetable oil so that the oil can penetrate more deeply.

If your bit resumes squeaking after some time, simply repeat the oiling process as needed.

FAQ, Part 13

How do I measure for and use a belly pad girth?

Belly pad girths should always have elastic on both ends so that each side can be adjusted to keep the girth centred (not centring the girth would result in the wider part of the girth potentially interfering with the front legs). Girths such as this with "double elastic" have more give to them than the more traditional "single elastic" girths, which can potentially mean sizing down. I find that double elastic girths usually stretch about one inch further (about one billet hole) than girths with elastic at only one end, so if your single elastic girth is already on the long side, size down for a belly pad. If, however, your single elastic girth is verging on too short, you should be fine maintaining the same size.

Elastic often requires some amount of breaking in, so you might initially be worried that the girth is too short until the elastic stretches out.

You can also purchase a belly pad attachment that slides onto a traditional girth, but I find that these tend to hang down and move around more than a dedicated one-piece belly guard girth.

Can you stay in the ring between hunter over fences classes?

If there are no other horses waiting at the ingate and you have cleared your plan with the ingate person before entering the ring, most judges do not mind a horse staying in the ring and completing all of their back-to-back hunter classes at once. If there are other horses waiting to go into the ring, most riders will not appreciate their timing being thrown off by one horse staying in the ring.

If you do choose to stay in the ring, keep in mind that your performance for each class starts from the moment you enter the ring, so ensure that you make it clear where one class ends and the next begins by coming back to a walk before setting up your entrance for the next course, and remember that you are being judged at all times. If you feel the need to shout back to your helpers to remind yourself of the next course, a better idea would be to simply exit the ring for a few moments to gather yourself before starting your next round.

How do you stuff a horse's ears?

Stuffing a horse's ears is a fairly common practice in the hunter and jumper rings to make the horse less reactive to distracting sounds. Jumpers can wear a fly veil over top to help prevent the stuffing from coming out (there are also some fly bonnets designed to muffle sound themselves), while hunters must be stuffed more carefully.

There are various types of "stuffies" available, ranging from fleecy pom pom types to foam plugs to basic cotton. Choose whichever you and your horse are most comfortable with, making sure that the colour is similar enough to your horse's not to stand out. Most products need to be placed fairly deep in order to stay put, but there will still be some part that's visible, especially if your horse shakes them loose at all. Practice riding with stuffed ears at home before attempting it at a show because some horses will object initially.

How long of a pelham shank can I use in the hunter ring?

While there is no set rule (though as always, double check your local rulebook), the shorter, the better. If a shank is so long that it draws your eye to it, it's probably too long. The judge might wonder why the horse needs such a strong bit, especially if you use a lot of curb rein, which could potentially place you below a horse that goes similarly but in a less severe bit. Most hunters that go in a pelham are using something in the range of a Tom Thumb pelham, which has the shortest possible shank length.

What does it mean to "break" a green year?

The horse's green status indicates at what heights it has previously competed, allowing it to compete against horses with a similar level of show experience. There are different green levels depending on horse height (horse vs. pony) and the spectrum of classes offered in any given area. Once a horse has competed at a height that is above what the rules indicate for any given green division, it is said to have "broken" its green status, requiring a higher division the following season. For exact heights and rules, check your local rulebook.

Bitting Arrangements

Bitting can be complicated, especially when certain bits are made without an obvious orientation or with more rings than there are reins. This aim of this post is to make the process of setting up a new bit easier. These are amongst the more popular bits, and most other styles will follow a similar pattern. Whenever you try a new bit, I strongly recommend that you adjust and use it under the guidance of an experienced horse person.

Dashed lines on the bit diagrams indicate where two sets of reins or a single rein with converters (aka roundings) could be used.

Baucher

The baucher is a snaffle that differs from others in that it has two rings: one for the cheekpiece and one for the reins. This causes it to hang differently in the mouth in a way that some horses prefer, but it also makes it prone to being hung upside down.

There are no options here; the cheekpiece always attaches to the small ring while the reins attach to the ring that contains the mouthpiece.

Elevator/Three-Ring/Four-Ring/Continental Gag/Pessoa Gag

This bit has many names to go along with the many ways in which it can be used!

The cheekpiece always attaches to the small ring at the top, but everything aside from that is an option. Many will ride with a single set of reins on one of the lower rings, which makes it exclusively a leverage bit. Set up in this way, the horse has no relief from the leverage unless contact is dropped entirely. To remedy this, a snaffle rein can be added to the big ring, using either converters or two sets of reins. The lower the ring for the curb rein, the more leverage there will be.

Gag Bit/Running Gag

This bit incorporates both a bit and special cheekpieces which allow the bit to be lifted up in the mouth. The bridle's original cheekpieces must be removed to make room for the gag cheekpieces.

There are two options for using this bit. Many riders will just use the gag attachment with a single set of reins. The severity can be lessened by using, in addition to the gag rein, a snaffle rein attached to the big ring, which keeps the bit from being lifted every time contact is taken. I do not recommend using the snaffle rein without a gag rein attached; this gives the bit the opportunity to bounce freely up along the cheekpieces with every stride, which can be both irritating and confusing to the horse.

Pelham

The pelham is a popular choice for hunters or equitation horses that require more bit than a snaffle.

There are very few options when using a pelham. The cheekpiece will always attach to the top ring, and the curb chain will also attach to the hook there (sometimes the chain is run through the snaffle ring on its way to the hook to stabilize or shorten it). The pelham should be used with either two sets of reins or with rein converters/roundings. In the jumper ring, pelhams are occasionally seen with just a curb rein but this is very severe and should only be used in rare occasions by very talented riders. The reins or converters will always attach to the big ring and to the lower ring. For hunter and equitation classes, check your local rules to find out whether converters are permitted for your jump height and age group.

The tiny ring is for a lip strap, which is the most correct way to use a pelham despite not being very commonly used in the North American hunter/jumper scene. The lip strap is a thin rolled piece of leather that runs through the centre link of the curb chain to keep it flat and still, and it also keeps the bit shanks away from the horse's mouth where they could be grabbed.

Uxeter Kimberwick/Kimberwicke/Kimblewick

The Uxeter or slotted kimberwick is a bit sometimes seen on strong ponies (the pelham is a more appropriate bit in most other cases because the action is more refined).

The cheekpiece will always attach to the small ring at the top, and there is a hole below that ring for the curb chain hook. There are two options for the reins; the upper slot will hold the rein in a position opposite the mouthpiece that will act more similarly to a snaffle, while the lower slot holds the reins in a position to provide stronger curb action. The short length doesn't allow the curb action to ever be truly strong, but this bit isn't generally favoured because there is no relief from that small amount of leverage given that only one set of reins is ever used.

Young Horse Boots

I have heard of some eliminations as a result of riders not being aware of the new boot rule for young horse classes, so here's everything you need to know if you plan on competing in a young horse class run under FEI rules:

FEI Article 257.2.4

For all international Young Horses Competitions (five *, six, seven and eight year old Horses): All hind leg protections must have a maximum interior length of 16 centimetres; the width of the fastener must be at least five centimeters (refer to FEI Jumping Stewards’ Manual on the FEI website for diagram).

 * NB: Competitions for five year old Horses may only be held at the FEI World Breeding Jumping Championships for Young Horses, unless special authorisation has been granted by the FEI.

The following criteria must be respected in relation to hind boots worn in international Young Horses Competitions (see also the FEI Jumping Stewards Manual on the FEI website):

The inside of the protection must be smooth. Only non-elastic Velcro-type fasteners are permitted; no hooks, buckles, clips or other methods of attaching the fasteners may be used;

The rounded rigid part of the protection must be placed around the inside of the fetlock;

No additional elements may be used in conjunction with the protection.

Here is a page from the Stewards Manual showing examples:

The gist of the rule is that hind boots mustn't have elastic, must have only wide velcro closures, and mustn't have any protrusions on the inside (smoothness refers to a lack of protrusions rather than to a specific type of material, as far as I am aware).

This rule, designed for the welfare of the horse, aims to reduce the practice of over-tightening boots to increase sensitivity and the use of boots designed to exaggerate the movement of the hind end over fences by applying pressure. 

There are not many brands of boots that currently fit these criteria. I am currently aware only of the Young Jump boots made by Veredus that are definitely allowed and will update this post with any others that I come across. There are several basic neoprene types of boots that should fall within the guidelines, but it's best to check in person before purchasing to make sure that there is no elastic on the straps.

Equitation Stirrup Rule Update

When the new stirrup rule was announced for equitation riders, there were many unanswered questions regarding what exactly was meant by the rule and how judges would interpret it. Now that the rule has been in effect for a few months, some more information is starting to emerge. There is still confusion and the rules seem to be interpreted differently between Canada and the United States, but at least there are now some clues available.

The American rule is worded as follows:

EQ110 Appointments

4. The use of stirrups that have entirely black branches is not permitted in any Equitation class. The use of stirrups which have entirely black branches will automatically result in elimination.

The Canadian rule reads:

ARTICLE G1005 TACK AND EQUIPMENT

5. [...] Only silver-coloured stirrups are permitted in equitation or 

medal classes. Use of black or coloured stirrups will incur elimination.*

The American rule is clear on the point that stirrups with small amounts of black on them, such as stainless steel jointed stirrup irons with black joints, are permitted. This has been confirmed by Dover Saddlery, who received this statement from Lauren Fahey, the Director of Hunter Affiliates, USEF: "The rule will apply to stirrups that are entirely black, such as the composite stirrups sometimes used in show jumping. Stirrups with black rubber on the branches that cover a portion of the stainless steel will still be allowed for use in equitation when the new rule takes effect."

There have been reports of judges in the US eliminating riders for stirrup irons that they consider to be too dark, however, even if the stirrups are not actually black. This has occurred with composite stirrups that were marketed as a good choice for the equitation ring. The safest choice is therefore to either spray paint composite stirrups silver if only dark products are available, or to use a silver-coloured aluminum stirrup or traditional stainless steel stirrup iron (jointed or regular).

In Canada, while the competition season has yet to get into full swing (leaving us waiting to hear how the rule will actually be implemented at shows), apparently the Equine Canada Rules Committee has said that stainless steel stirrup irons with black joints will not be permitted in equitation classes at EC shows. Peacock-style safety stirrups with black elastics will still be permitted

It is not clear whether jointed stirrups with grey joints will be permitted, but I suspect that they will be allowed since the colour is close to silver and the rule is not worded against using jointed stirrups in the equitation ring.

To summarize:

For US equitation classes:

- You may not use stirrups with branches that are entirely black

- You may use silver jointed stirrup irons with black joints

- You risk elimination if you use composite stirrups that are not black, but still dark in colour

For Canadian equitation classes:

- You may not use stirrups that are not silver in colour

- You may not use silver jointed stirrup irons with black joints

- Any colour other than silver, even if metallic, puts you at risk of elimination

*Update to the update:

Jump Canada has released a clarification to make the rule more specific.

G1005.5 will now read:
"Stirrup irons must not be affixed to the rider's foot or boot in any manner. To facilitate the judge's view of the rider's foot position, black or coloured stirrups (other than silver/grey) or stirrups with black or coloured branches are not permitted and, if used, will incur elimination."

G1102.3 will now read:
"To facilitate the judge's view of the rider's foot position, black or coloured stirrups (other than silver/grey) or stirrups with black or coloured branches are not permitted and, if used, will incur elimination."

So grey joints are definitely permissible in Canada, which was also confirmed to me by someone in the know. The rule is still not completely clear on black joints, but I would continue to avoid them based on previous comments from Equine Canada. 

Is Your Bridle Really Clean?

Have you ever arrived at a horse show with tack that you thought you had cleaned thoroughly the night before, only to find that it looks dull or, worse, has noticeable grime on it? This is an easy situation to get into if you don't clean your tack daily or if you just quickly wipe down your tack without really giving attention to the areas where dirt builds up the most easily. Clean tack is not only a sign of respect for the judge, but it also contributes to that first impression that tells the judge whether or not you are there to win.

Wetting the layer of grime while washing tack can actually make the dirty layer temporarily appear dark and transparent, which is why you often notice the next day, when the tack is dry, that it isn't as clean as you thought it was. Tack that is truly clean has a very recognizable lustre and richness that is well worth the extra effort.

To avoid the surprise of tack that isn't as clean as you thought it was, there are certain areas of the bridle that can serve as warning signs that your tack needs a very thorough cleaning. Because it's difficult to spot the grime once it has gotten wet, I recommend scheduling the intensive cleaning session for at least two days before you show, giving you an opportunity to spot and re-clean any missed areas the next day. 

Here are the areas of the bridle to which you should pay extra attention. Other spots will still need attention, but I have found that these are the most easily missed:

Inside the browband and noseband:

These areas will not be visible while you're showing, but I imagine that horses must appreciate not having sticky, rough surfaces in contact with their faces. Less-than-thorough cleaning here will also often indicate a lack of cleaning elsewhere.

How to clean it: While some prefer to use a toothbrush to get into the small spaces, I actually prefer to scrape out the stitched areas with a fingernail, being careful not to scratch the leather. After a wipe with your soapy sponge, the grime should become soft enough to scrape off, and following up with a clean wet sponge should take care of any remaining residue.

The buckles:

Look closely at the buckles, particularly where the tongue of the buckle rests. Dirt builds up easily on buckles and dulls them. 

How to clean it: Use a wet, soapless sponge to wipe off any dirt. If there is a lot built up, gentle use of your fingernails can again be very effective. Be sure to lift up the various parts in order to clean the buckles thoroughly without leaving grimy edges.

The insides of your reins:

This is one of the worst locations for grime build-up, thanks to the movement of the reins against the often-sweaty neck. Not only does this indicate that your tack needs cleaning more often, but the grime is also visible from the other side under your horse's neck!

How to clean it: Once again, I find my fingernails to be most effective here. Wipe the area down with water and saddle soap to soften the dirt, and then run your fingernail gently down the length of the dirty area, making enough passes to cover the width of the rein. Wipe off any remaining residue with the sponge and then repeat as necessary. Don't forget to pay close attention to the raised strip where the grippy part of the reins begins.

Where the reins attach to the bit:

This area tends to attract a lot of saliva from the mouth, making it both a magnet for little bits of hay and prone to dryness. Keeping it clean (and conditioned) will help the leather last a long time without failing on you mid-ride.

How to clean it: Try to squish your sponge enough that it will fit in there and then expand to pull everything out with it. If that doesn't work, the trusty fingernail/toothbrush or unfastening it to open it all up will do the trick.

The throatlatch:

This is one of the least obvious areas to look at, but it is often dirty! There is an area on each side of the throatlatch, just above the bottom of the horse's chin, where dirt can build up thanks to the motion of the loose leather and any flexing of the head and neck. It usually creates a line that will be slightly dull or appear a slightly different colour than the rest of the throatlatch.

How to clean it: If sponging alone won't do it, gently run your fingernail down the dirty area and then sponge it off. I find that this area is one of the worst for appearing clean when wet and then reverting back to being dull when dry, so pay extra attention to it the day after the thorough tack cleaning.

Some other areas to pay attention to are any with deep stitching (surrounding any raised areas), as well as holes on straps which can become clogged with dirt (the tongue of the throat latch buckle is very handy for cleaning out clogged holes). These areas are, however, easy to clean in a single session and don't tend to suffer from the same level of grime build-up as do the above-mentioned trouble spots. If you are able to keep these five special areas clean, it's likely that the rest of your bridle will end up spotless as well.

Giveaway Time, Courtesy of Dream Horse Studios!

This is a very exciting post because it marks our very first giveaway contest on this blog! Read to the end to find out how you can win a $75 gift certificate to spend at Dream Horse Studios just by sharing!

Frequent readers of this blog are probably aware that I don't like to mention brand names. The important thing is to have clean, conservative, well-fitted tack and clothing rather than a particular "stylish" brand. Having said that, there are still some brands that tend to be particularly suitable for showing or that are good to know about for their value and innovation. Today's post involves the latter.

Dream Horse Studios takes a different approach to tack, with a focus on quality, good design and affordable prices, while at the same time offering options for those wanting something that stands out. I've been drooling over their Calypso boots, an outer shell in a choice of conservative colours (patent or leather, it's up to you) with a coloured calfskin lining in your choice of five fun colours to give the appearance of piping when they're worn. Imagine boots with the same colour of lining as the trim on your saddle pad and fly bonnet!

The Calypso boots in patent leather with red lining

If it's a classic look you have in mind, several models are available for you to choose from at prices below what you might expect to pay at a tack shop, and made from English leather, to boot (no pun intended!).

Cambridge leather jumping boots

They also make extremely colourful boots that would be fun for schooling, as well as a variety of other products ranging from beaded halters, belts and dog collars to bridles and decorative browbands.

A rainbow of fleece-lined Carnivale boots

Dream Horse Studios has now taken to Kickstarter to raise funds for an expansion of their product line to include a complete selection of bridles, girths, breastcollars, and more.

Donations start at only $1, and there are fantastic reward packages available. At $50, for example, you will receive a beaded leather bracelet with a custom engraved stainless steel or brass charm. For $100 you can receive a padded leather stable halter in your choice of size and colour; how often can you even purchase a padded leather halter for that without also helping a promising new business? To top that off, for just $25 more, you will receive a raised leather halter in the colour of your choice complete with a custom engraved name plate!

Additional rewards include sets of boots, bridles, show sheets, shipping boots, girths, breastcollars and more! How often does a Kickstarter campaign offer rewards at prices that are similar to what you might pay for something in-store?

Check out the campaign here!

Now to the even more fun part, the giveaway! In exchange for spreading the word about their Kickstarter campaign, Dream Horse Studios would like to offer you a $75 gift certificate, valid on any of their products. All you have to do is share it in one or more ways, and you can share it daily for extra entries! For an additional entry, you can also "like" Dream Horse Studios on Facebook and keep up to date on their goings-on.

We'll be using Rafflecopter for the giveaway. If you aren't familar with it, it's a way of keeping track of your entries and randomly drawing a winner. You can sign in either with your name and e-mail or with your Facebook account. I will only e-mail you if you have won the gift certificate.

Each day, you'll have three options for sharing the Kickstarter campaign, and you can use anywhere from one to all three options every day. "Liking" Dream Horse Studios on Facebook is good for one additional entry to the contest only once during the contest period.

Entries will close at 12:00 a.m. on November 6, 2013, the final day of the Dream Horse Studios Kickstarter campaign. The winner will be revealed on November 7.

Good luck!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

November 7th: Congratulations to the winner of the giveaway, Anne G.!

FAQ, Part 11

Are red jackets appropriate attire for the jumper ring?

The answer depends on what colour the national team jacket is in your country. If the team wears red, it's a faux-pas to wear the same colour that those team members have worked so hard to earn. The same applies for non-red team jacket colours in other countries as well, though some countries use common jacket colours that are distinguished by coloured collars or patches.

Brightly-coloured show jackets are becoming more and more popular in the jumper ring, making colours like red more widely available than they used to be. As a result, you will occasionally see a rider wearing the same colour as the national team, but while it is not against the rules in every country, it is still frowned upon by most. Check the rules of your national federation before you go out shopping, and do your best to avoid the same colour combination as your national team (both jacket and collar) even if it isn't explicitly written in the rule book.

How can I keep the cheeks on my hackamore bridle from going into my horse's eyes?

This is a common problem with hackamores, exacerbated by the curb action that can swing a seemingly well-fitted bridle towards the eyes.

If your hackamore is adjustable, you can try making it wider so that the cheek pieces attach further away from the bridge of the nose, bringing them slightly away from the eyes as well.

If your hackamore is a fixed size, the trick is to tie the cheek pieces away from the eyes by adding a string or strap to the bridle. Simply tie a piece of conservatively-coloured string (number string works well, or anything else like a shoe lace that isn't likely to rub) from about halfway up one cheekpiece, under the jaw and up around to the other cheekpiece. Make it tight enough to keep the cheekpieces out of the eyes, but not so tight that it will rub or restrict the horse in any way. A leather strap of an appropriate length could also be used to the same purpose (spur straps, a shortened bradoon hanger, etc.).

If you do a Google image search for Russel Skelton Royal Fair, a couple of examples will pop up showing what the set-up should look like.

Why aren't hunter score sheets made public?

Quite simply, most people would not understand them if they were. Unlike dressage with its single score sheet per horse and myriad comments, a hunter class is scored with only one line of symbols and notes per horse, necessitating the use of symbols that each judge finds fastest and easiest to use, and which can vary from judge to judge. Because hunter judges don't have scribes, this system allows the judge to keep as much focus on the horse as possible with minimal writing and no delays between rounds for writing comments, as well as the ability to compare rounds quickly without flipping pages.

Any comments are usually more for the judge to remember the round for comparing scoring than to comment on every aspect of it, while the more obvious symbols such as the shape of each jump should have been felt and seen by the rider and coach, anyway.

Which type of hair net is the correct choice for the hunter ring?

There are three categories of hair net marketed for riding: traditional two-knot hair nets, one-knot hair nets, and no-knot hair nets. The two-knot hair nets can be uncomfortable because of the multiple knots, but this also keeps them tighter and less baggy than the more comfortable one-knot type (no pressure points if the knot is put in the back but the hair net can puff outwards if not tucked in). No-knot hair nets are like bands, open at the top of the head.

Because only the edge of the hair net will ever show under your helmet anyway, there is no one correct choice. Choose the option that is most comfortable for you while still allowing you to keep your hair neatly contained.

What should I do if the zipper on my boot breaks?

If your federation's rules allow you to compete in your schooling paddock boots and half chaps, you can switch to those if you are able to clean and polish them to show ring standards.

If you don't have a back-up set of boots with you, you can use electrical or duct tape (preferably black) wrapped around the boot to keep it closed. Zippers tend to break at the worst possible times, so black tape is a good thing to have in your tack box just in case. Try to have the zipper repaired as soon as you can, but everyone is likely to be understanding of inconspicuous tape in the meantime because it has happened to so many.

A Heads Up for US Equitation Riders, Stirrup Rule Change

Royal Rider stirrups

If you compete or are planning to compete in equitation classes in the United States, this rule change could affect you. Beginning December 1st, 2013, black stirrup irons will no longer be allowed for equitation classes.

My understanding of the reasoning is that a black iron against a black field boot, especially on a dark horse, can hide minor flaws in the leg position and make it difficult to tell if the rider has their foot in the stirrup.

If you are in the market for a new pair of stirrup irons and think that you might enter any equitation classes in the future, you should consider either a stainless steel-type iron or a newer-style polymer iron that is coloured silver/grey rather than black.

As far as I am aware, jointed stirrups with black joint coverings are most likely still acceptable because the top and bottom of the iron are still visible as stainless steel. If you are worried about potential elimination for those black coverings, the stirrups are made with grey coverings as well.

The colour of the stirrup pad should not matter because it is hidden by the rider's boot and the branch of the stirrup, anyway.

If you already own black stirrup irons and cannot purchase a new pair, there are metallic silver spray paints available that can be used on plastic.

I have not heard anything yet about this rule being adopted in Canada, but I would not be surprised if it happens in the next few years if this is a common complaint with judges, given how often American judges are brought up to Canada. For that reason, it might be wise for any equitation riders who plan on purchasing new stirrup irons in the near future to stick to stainless steel-looking options.

This is the new USEF rule:

EQ110 Appointments [Chapter EQ - Equitation Division, Subchapter EQ-2 Hunter Seat Equitation Section] add new:
4.  The use of black stirrups is not permitted in any Equitation class. The use of black stirrups will automatically result in elimination.

The full wording of the rule change can be seen here (on page 169):
http://www.usef.org/documents/rules/ruleChanges/2013/RCApprovedBOD1_17_13.pdf

FAQ, Part 9

Do I have to wear leather gloves when showing hunter/jumper?

No, gloves are not necessary but they do provide a nice finishing touch to the rider's turnout in the hunter ring, keeping the hands discreet. The vast majority of riders do wear gloves to show.

If you choose to wear gloves, leather is a very nice traditional choice, although there are several alternatives made of other materials that can also look and feel good. As long as the pair of gloves is conservative (black, unless you are wearing brown boots in which case brown is more appropriate), clean and fit your hands, they will be acceptable in the show ring.

Can you wear a zippered shirt in the show ring? 

Show shirts with zippered fronts are more suited to the dressage ring than to the hunter or jumper rings. This is because the zipper is meant to be hidden beneath a stock tie. Chokers or stock ties are usually required as part of formal dress, therefore a zippered shirt worn without one could be considered illegal. Such a shirt could still be worn on a casual day in the jumper ring by itself or with a show jacket, but in any other situation it would be a risk to use one unless combined with a stock tie that covers it.

Nowadays there are shirts with wrap collars that are essentially built-in chokers, but these shirts are designed to look like a traditional show shirt from a distance, hiding the closures on the collar. Some judges or stewards might consider a zippered shirt to be similar enough to be acceptable, but it's better to check with the steward at each horse show than it is to just assume that it will be fine.

What is the best colour fly veil for a grey horse?

In most cases, the best colour of fly veil is the one that most closely matches the colour of the horse, though a black base will suit almost any colour of horse. A light grey horse can look good in an off-white or very light grey fly bonnet (pure white might make the horse look slightly yellow in comparison), and a darker grey horse could suit a medium grey or charcoal bonnet. Similarly, a chestnut often suits a brown fly veil, which can also look good on a bay if the colour of brown is exactly the right shade to complement the coat (otherwise, black is the way to go).

Of course, in the jumper ring, you can use any colour and there are lots of very classy-looking navy blue and even dark green bonnets out there for those who want to use barn colours or just want a different look. Remember that you can add colour to a neutral base with trim or cord, so there are lots of ways to make a fly bonnet original while keeping it relatively conservative overall.

Should you use clear or black hoof polish in the hunter ring?

Solid black-coloured hoof polish isn't usually seen in the hunter ring; either a naturally slightly-brown hoof oil/dressing or a clear polish would be much more suitable. These bring out and deepen the natural colour of the hoof instead of looking harsh and artificial.

Can jumpers wear only hind boots at shows?

Yes, in the jumper ring, you may use whichever combination of boots and bandages works best for your horse, or you may use nothing at all. As long as it's humane, it's up to you.

Can I tighten the curb chain on a hackamore?

Yes, you can tighten the curb chain or strap on a hackamore the same way you would for a bit, although the actual fit might need to be slightly different than it would be for a curb bit. The looser you make the curb strap, the more time it will take for the full effect of the hackamore to come into play during your rein aid, giving the horse a chance to  respond to the lighter feel before it is amplified. If the curb strap is too loose, however, the hackamore will move around on the face since there is nothing else holding it in position, making the standard 45 degree rotation of the shank that is typically used to adjust curb chains on bits sometimes too loose.

You can try making your curb strap slightly tighter or looser and seeing how your horse responds, as there are many factors involved and one horse might appreciate having the hackamore stabilized more with a relatively snug curb strap while another might enjoy having the gentler action of a looser curb strap. The 45 degree rotation of the shank is a good place to start, but there's no reason not to modify the tightness slightly if that standard tightness doesn't seem to be ideal. Using a flat leather curb strap instead of a curb chain will also make the curb milder and make it a bit kinder to play around with adjustments.

Fitting Open-Front Boots

Your horse's boots might not strike you as a very complicated piece of tack, and because of that their fit is often overlooked. We use boots to protect the horse's legs, but using them improperly can result in damage from the boots themselves, injuries from areas not covered by the ill-fitting boot or discomfort for the horse.

I have written previously about the different types of open-front boots (see post here) and this post will outline how to fit a pair of boots as well as the common mistakes that riders make when putting them on.

A correctly-fitted boot should be just shorter than the length of the horse's leg from the bottom of the knee to the bottom of the fetlock. The boot should cup the fetlock (if you are using a moulded plastic boot, ensuring that the fetlock area fits is especially important to prevent rubs), fit snugly up the cannon bone and then finish below the bony projections at the side of the knee. This keeps the boot from rubbing against the knee while at the same time giving the knee room to bend, which you'll need over the jumps!

The straps should be tightened so that they are just snug. You should still be able to squeeze a finger between the strap and the boot (your horse's leg will change shape slightly during each movement so you want to allow some give, and also let the blood circulate through the skin).

This is how a front boot should fit:

This is an example of the same boot (therefore the correct size for this horse) placed too high on the leg (unfortunately the knee and fetlock are not very clear because the legs are black):

This photo illustrates why there should be room left at the top behind the knee. Even with the cut-out section at the back, the boot pinches the skin at the back of the knee when it's partially bent:

Short open-front back boots are easier to fit since the length isn't a problem, but fastening the straps so close to a joint can be tricky because it's more difficult to hold the boot together with one hand while you do up the straps with the other. For that reason, the easiest way to put on a pair of back boots is by fastening them first over the cannon bone (loosely) and then sliding them down into place. 

You'll get a feel for how tightly to fasten the boots after a few tries. Because you aren't fastening the boots in their proper location, it's extremely important to check the final tightness every time you apply them because it's very easy with this method to over-tighten a boot by making it snug around the cannon bone. Always slide the boot in the direction of the hair growth; there's no need to slide them upwards before taking them off.

Common Mistakes

• Boots that are too big: If the boot is so long that it runs up into the knee and extends past the bottom of the fetlock, it is simply too big and you need to try a different size or brand of boot. Nothing you do will make it fit properly.
• Straps that are too tight: I see this more with boots that use buckle or stud closures because sometimes they need to be overtightened to reach a hole, which is one of the reasons why my personal preference is for velcro closures. Velcro can, however, also be over-tightened. If an indent is left on the leg after you remove the boot, or if you cannot squeeze your little finger under the strap, it's too tight. Open-front boots shouldn't need to be over-tightened to prevent them from slipping down the leg because the shape of the leg should prevent the boot from slipping if the straps are comfortably snug.
• Boots placed too high: As seen above, boots that are too high can rub and prevent the knee from bending without pinching. Some boots might slide into place during the ride while others might stay too high, depending the the particular boot, leg and tightness of straps.
• Boots placed too low: Putting the boots too low on the leg leaves the back of the leg with less protection from the back hooves and runs the risk of rubbing the fetlock if the narrow part of the boot meant for the cannon bone is placed there. The straps can also lie over the fetlock joint if they are too low. 
• Boots falling off: This can be a problem with velcro boots on horses that have a lot of knee action. An easy solution if you wish to continue using velcro fastenings is to apply a layer of Vetrap around the boot over the closed velcro. Use Vetrap that matches the colour of the boot and wrap it no tighter than the fastenings on the boot; it can even be a bit looser because it is just there to keep the two sides of velcro from separating to the point of fully detaching.

Where to Find Shaped Pads That Fit

It can be difficult to find a shaped saddle pad for hunter or equitation classes that fits your saddle perfectly, showing an even border that isn't too narrow or too wide all the way around the saddle. Some companies make saddle pads in different shapes and sizes in order to help you find the best fit, so this post will give you an idea of the different companies that offer such options. If you can't shop for a pad in person to try it with your saddle before you buy, some companies can give you an idea of which model might work best with your brand and size of saddle if you contact them.

You might have noticed that I don't normally mention particular brands in this blog, mostly because I don't want to give anyone the impression that the myth of judges caring about brands holds any merit (as long as your clothing and equipment are well-fitted, clean and appropriate, the only people who might care about trends are your fellow competitors). In this case we are using brand names because correctly-fitting pads can be difficult to find and there aren't many companies that offer enough options to fit a variety of saddles. These companies aren't necessarily trendy; they're seen on the show grounds because they offer saddle pads that fit well.

If you know of a company that should be included in this list but isn't, either leave me a comment or send me an e-mail and I'll add it!

The approximate price ranges given here are in American dollars and could vary from store to store.

Price Guide
$ = under $40
$$ = $40 to $69.99
$$$ = $70 to $99.99
$$$$ = $100 or more

Wilker's: More shapes available than you would imagine, some even for particular brands, all in a wide variety of sizes.
Prices: $ to $$

Toklat: Several different styles with a couple of brand-specific options, each in a variety of sizes.
Prices: $$

Ecogold: Both forward and regular flaps in a variety of sizes, along with specialty pads.
Prices: $$$$

Ogilvy Equestrian: Great customer service, with different sizes offered and a memory foam option, but currently only available in sheepskin rather than synthetic fleece. Rumour has it that they will come out with a new synthetic fleece model at some point.
Prices: $$$$

Fleeceworks: A limited number of different shapes along with a small range of sizes, all in sheepskin.
Prices: $$$$

EquineLUX: Non-slip high-tech pads. Come in three sizes with a sizing chart to get an idea of the fit, and I'm told that they will also make customized pads to your saddle's measurements at no extra charge.
Prices: $$$$