Going First

This show season I've noticed one thing in particular that drives in-gates, judges, show management and coaches/riders alike crazy: the first rider of the class who isn't ready on time. This happens in both the hunter ring and the jumper ring, and each time it slows down the day for everyone and makes it extra difficult to determine when the later riders will need to get ready.

There are several possible reasons why you might end up being the first horse into the ring for your class. In some cases you might prefer to go at the beginning, there might be a posted order and you were drawn first, you might have arrived late and the remaining spot is first, or you might have added into the class and as a result you were put at the top of the order. Going at the top of the order can be a desirable thing for certain horses and riders: easier scheduling, an earlier finish, multiple horses with the same rider in one class, a quieter warm-up area, etc.

Keep in mind that in many cases you will still be expected to return to the ring with your horse at the end of the class for a jog or ribbon presentation even if you go early in the order.

In the hunter ring there is no excuse not to be ready when the class begins. The course has already been posted and you should have learned it early in the day, there is no course walk, and if you've been keeping up to date with how the earlier classes are running you should have no problem getting warmed up and to the ring on time. If you expect that there might be a conflict with your trainer or if you're also riding another horse in a different ring, warn the in-gate in advance that you might not be able to make it on time. Without warning, the in-gate won't know whether you've decided not to compete in the class after all, and knowing about the conflict will enable him or her to communicate with the other ring to maintain an appropriate order of go.

When it comes to the jumpers, going first can be a bit more complicated. Ideally, you will walk your course with an earlier class so that you can warm up during your own class's course walk. If you can't walk the course ahead of time, you need to have someone at the ring to hold your horse during the course walk. When you're first in the order, there isn't time to run back to your stall or trailer to fetch your horse after the walk. Look at the course diagram well ahead of time so that you can head right in for the walk without having to learn the pattern at the same time. If your class is the first of the day, keep in mind that you can walk the course as soon as it's set; there's no need to wait until the last minute!

All of your flatwork needs to be done before the course walk, and preferably you'll be able to jump most of your warm-up jumps ahead of the walk, too. Once you complete your course walk (and try very hard not to be the last one left walking in the ring), get right back on your horse and jump a final warm-up jump or two to get back into the rhythm before heading to the in-gate.

This is the routine that others will be expecting of you, and you will throw off the timing of other riders' warm-ups if you don't promptly walk up to the in-gate following the course walk.

Unsure of when you might be expected to go first? If you're entering a mini prix, classic or any other class with a posted order day-of, expect to be put at the top of the order of go. Any time there is a drawn/posted order you could potentially be first, so check the order well in advance if you can. Lastly, if you don't sign in early for a class that's running as a sign-in rather than as a posted order, the remaining spots are likely to be near the beginning of the class. In this case there might be more leeway for moving the order around depending on the particular horse show, but you will likely be expected to go early if possible.

That being said, if you aren't sure where you will be in the order, always assume that you might have to go first and enjoy the breathing room if you end up being able to take more time to get ready. Having everyone arrive at the ring promptly is something that everyone on the showgrounds will appreciate, and it will make for that much less "hurry up and wait" for all.

How to Fold a Sheet

Have you ever envied the aisles of perfectly folded, square sheets presented by many show barns? All it takes to accomplish this yourself is a little bit of practice and a few easy steps! These instructions make the process seem longer than it really is; once you've practised it a few times you should find that each step can be done in one fluid motion, leading to the next.

Even for casual at-home blanketing, folding your blankets squarely means that they will take up less room, one blanket won't get caught on another, and proper folding will contribute to a professional look.

As with most aspects of the horse world, you are likely to find some variation in technique at different stables and with different types of sheets, but this is a good folding technique to build from.

For ease of photography these first steps are shown on the floor, but you should hold the sheet yourself throughout the process, off the ground.

First, grab the front edge of the blanket at the top seam with one hand, and the back edge of the blanket at the top seam with the other hand. Bring both hands together while giving the blanket a flick so that it folds in half along the top seam with a straight fold. Shift your hands so that one is now holding each end of the doubled top seam.

Don't worry about the top seam matching all the way along, especially if the blanket is fitted along the back; this would result in lumpy folding.

Bring your hands together again so that the top seam is folded into four layers. Remember to give the blanket a flick as you fold in order to get straight, wrinkle-free folds!

You should now have the main body of the blanket folded into four even layers, with the shoulder area hanging free.

Double the folded section of the blanket over one arm while you grab the front buckle area with your free hand and fold it behind the quartered body so that the shoulder area is at the bottom of your folded blanket, lying against your arm.

Facing the blanket bar, flip the blanket so that the back seam is facing down (note that a blanket with writing on it will need to be rotated the other way so that the writing doesn't appear upside down). Fold the blanket over the bar, allowing the blanket bar to catch the shoulder area and straps without allowing them to fall free over the back of the bar.

By flipping the blanket upside down, the bar catches the straps and doubles them over under the blanket. This creates a much neater appearance and prevents long straps from getting caught as doors open and close.

For other blankets:

• For a high-necked blanket, fold it the same as you would a regular sheet but grab from the wither area, not from the actual front edge of the blanket.
• For embroidered sheets or prize coolers, practice until you find the best places to fold in order to display the writing properly. This might result in uneven quarters, which is fine as long as you can still tuck certain areas under in order for it to hang neatly.
• For turnout blankets/sheets without a seam, it remains very important to grab from where that seam would have been in order for a square shape to result.

Video Roundup

For those who have finished showing for the season, now is the perfect time to practice grooming skills for next year. With so many different how-to videos available on the internet, it can be difficult to know which to follow for instructions, so I've pulled together a selection of videos showing good demonstrations of how to braid, bandage and clip.

All of these skills are best started with the help of an experienced horse person to guide you along, but videos can provide useful preparation, extra tips, or refreshers. 

Wrapping legs

This video does make an error in the direction of bandaging (it should be done, as shown, rather than as said, from the front, around the outside to the back, which is counter-clockwise on the left legs and clockwise on the right), and I prefer to overlap enough not to end up with an extra length of bandage at the end, but it is otherwise a very good demonstration of bandaging a leg. For shipping wraps, purchase a size larger for the cottons and allow the extra cotton to cover the pastern, and then leave just a little bit exposed at the top and bottom after wrapping as you would for a standing bandage (as shown in this video). As far as tightness goes, the bandage should be snug but you should still be able to insert a finger or two between the bandage and the leg.

Hunter Braids (Mane)

The tricks here are mostly to not use too much hair per section, to keep the braid straight while braiding, to braid each section to the same length as the others, and to pull the braid straight up with your pull-through.

Tail Braiding

It takes a lot of patience to learn how to braid a tail, so this one requires a lot of practice both to get the hang of handling all of those strands while keeping them tight, and also to take many small bunches for an elegant look rather than using more hair to get to the end more quickly.

Body Clipping

This is a good overall video, but personally I prefer to overlap my strokes more to prevent lines, and I try to keep all electrical cords safely against the wall away from the horse's legs except for the small section that I need at any given moment.

For those who don't wish to do a full clip, the next video demonstrates very nicely how to clip lines, and it also provides an excellent demonstration of clipping smoothly with an overlap between strokes, and always following the opposite direction of the hair growth.

Quick Equipment Fixes

We all know that most horse-related things can be fixed with the help of baling twine and/or duct tape. This post will cover some additional easy fixes, as well as some uses of duct tape that you might not have considered.

Leaky hose

A horse show can be a very perilous place for hoses. Being repeatedly dragged over rough ground, around corners, and being stepped on by countless horses, many of them wearing studs, is a surefire way for a hose to end up with a puncture.

Punctured hoses have a tendency to spray water all over the barn aisle, or at whoever happens to be using the hose, but replacing each hose every couple of days to avoid these problems is not realistic.

Wrapping the affected part of the hose in duct tape is a tempting solution, but duct tape doesn't tend to stick well to a hose, even when dry, that has been exposed to so much dirt and that is moved so frequently. Inevitably, the duct tape will peel off after only a few uses.

My solution is to wrap the punctured section in Vetrap. This might sound counterintuitive, but the Vetrap sticks to itself rather than to the hose, ensuring that it will stay put (it's still best, however, to put it on while the hose is dry for best stickability). While the Vetrap is porous, it will lessen the amount of water that can escape and most importantly, the water will soak out in a uniform manner rather than spraying everyone and everything at random.

The Vetrap can also be covered in duct tape, overlapping the edges, to further seal in the water, though this top layer will likely require frequent replacement.

Bucket handle safety caps missing

When carting buckets to and from horse shows, it's quite easy for one of the rubbery protective caps on the handle to pop off and go missing. While this might not seem like a big deal, those caps are there for a reason. Your horse's face will come into frequent contact with various parts of the bucket, and the uncovered bottom of the handle is the perfect shape and sharpness to tear an eyelid or a nostril.

Because the caps can go missing from an otherwise perfectly good bucket, it's handy to be able to fix the problem rather than purchase a brand new bucket every time it happens.

My solution is to take a strip of duct tape and tear it in two so that it becomes about half its usual width. When the bucket is completely dry, wrap this strip of duct tape over the top of the loop in the handle so that the end of the wire is completely covered and there is no open gap, as shown in this photo. Leave enough of the loop open for the handle to remain mobile, and this set-up should last indefinitely (the bucket in the photo has been in constant use for at least two or three years with that same piece of duct tape on it).

Trouble filling hay nets

Certain hay nets can be a pain to fill as they want to fold back into themselves. One possible solution, as shown in the video below (credit goes to YouTube user davegg25), is to use a muck bucket or flake-sized Rubbermaid to keep the empty hay net in a more suitable position for filling.

Broken field boot zipper

This isn't a particularly innovative use for duct tape, but it merits mention because it's an excellent reason to keep black duct tape on hand. With black duct tape applied vertically along the back of the boot, a broken zipper becomes virtually unnoticeable from afar, and it is strong enough to hold the two sides of the boot together for an entire ride.

Blanket surcingles coming undone

You can purchase little rubber rings to slip over the base of the T half of a surcingle buckle in order to keep it snug and lessen the chances of it accidentally coming undone. In a pinch, these rings can be substituted with braiding elastics wrapped snugly around the T.

Stabling vs. Shipping In

If a show is a relatively short drive away, you will often have the option of either shipping in every day or renting a stall. Even for a single-day show, day stalls or overnight stalls are sometimes available. There is no clear-cut answer as to what the best option will be for you; each option has its upsides and its downsides, and you will need to determine which are most important to you.

To help with that decision, here is a list of pros and cons related to each option:

Stabling (overnight)

Pros

• Horse settles in on the first day, stays quieter throughout the show
• The cost of the stall could work out to less than the cost of gas for shipping back and forth over multiple days
• Horses can be safely left alone in their stalls
• Stalls are often located near the show rings, closer than the ship-in parking
• Horses drink and eat more readily, and are comfortable urinating
• Easy location if using a professional braider
• No ship-in fee

Cons

• The cost of the stall
• The cost of bedding down the stall (at an average of $6 to $8 per bag if buying from the show)
• Having to stick around or come back for night check if not staying nearby
• The time and manpower to load/unload all of the equipment and hay/grain/shavings being brought
• No turnout unless the show has paddocks for rent

Shipping in

Pros 

• Costs the least for a single-day show, and could cost less for a multi-day show, depending on distance
• Horse gets to sleep at home in a comfortable environment and maybe get some turnout if the show days are short
• Less to pack and unpack
• No need to go to the show on days when you aren't showing
• No extra barn chores besides those already being done at home

Cons

• Some shows charge a ship-in fee that could offset any savings on the stall once the cost of gas is added in
• Difficult to handle multiple horses, especially with certain trailer configurations in which the horses can't be accessed individually
• The horses arrive excited each day, which could make a hot horse more difficult to handle 
• Earlier mornings in order to load up and arrive in time for the first class
• Ship-in parking can be far from the show rings
• Space can be limited around the trailer if the parking area is small
• Difficult to leave one horse alone if another needs to be at the show ring
• Some horses won't drink or urinate on the trailer
• The horses might need to be held outside of the trailer if the day is warm
• Extra time at the end of the day to drive home and settle the horses back in
• Difficult loaders might not want to get on and off the trailer repeatedly and therefore need to be held between classes

Day stall

Pros

• Easier handling of horses than on the trailer (ability to access them individually)
• Other horses nearby to keep a single horse company
• Horses are more likely to drink and urinate in a stall
• Stalls are often located near the show rings, closer than the ship-in parking
• Easy location if using a professional braider (but must arrange to be done in the morning, not the night)
• No ship-in fee
• Horses can be left alone in any weather
• Protection from the elements if it rains

Cons

• Still need at least one bag of shavings per stall on top of the stall fee
• Need to unpack some equipment and reload at the end of the day
• Longer day than with shipping in because of the time to settle the horses and repack
• Higher cost per day than multi-day stabling
• Limited availability
• More expensive than just shipping in and working off the trailer

Why Hunters and Jumpers Don't Have Ride Times

There is one question that is bound to come up any time a horse show runs late or after a particularly long episode of "hurry up and wait". That question is "Why don't hunter/jumper shows have ride times?". The concept works well in the dressage and eventing worlds, so why not in the hunter and jumper rings as well?

It turns out that it isn't simply the hunter/jumper world being stubborn or show organizers wanting to torture the competitors; there are fundamental differences between the disciplines that make it very difficult to assign accurate times in most cases.

Adds/scratches

One of the biggest reasons why ride times are so difficult to use in the hunter/jumper world is because we have the ability to add or scratch classes, with no limit (aside from monetary penalties) until the class is over. This structure allows a horse to be moved up or down in height depending on how things are going that week or even on that day, with no guesswork as to what the horse might be ready for weeks in the future. It allows trainers to enter the horse in as many or as few classes as are needed to get the best out of the horse on that day.

In the dressage and eventing worlds, you need to declare which classes you'll be entering at least one or two weeks before the actual show date. This is not a big deal because a horse will usually be aimed at one particular level throughout the season, or there might be a plan to upgrade at a particular event known to be on the easier side. In the jumper world in particular, moving up is done when the horse or rider is felt to be ready for it, and factors such as course design can come into play to determine the timing, which is difficult to know in advance. Given that it takes several days to draw up ride times, classes would have to be entered at least a week in advance and without the knowledge of how confident the horse or rider will be feeling that particular week.

In the hunter ring, if the trainer feels that a horse is spooky in the show ring, they currently have the ability to enter the horse in any additional classes that it is eligible for in order to get more ring time. If declarations had to be made far in advance, guesses would have to be made about the number of classes needed and a horse might end up too tired or too spooky to perform well in its main division.

Number of rings

Another aspect that makes many hunter/jumper shows very different from the other disciplines is the number of rings running at one time. Hunters and jumpers are very popular, and that means that there is a huge number of horses showing each day, split into multiple rings. With multiple rings come trainer conflicts.

Trainer conflicts occur when a trainer has to be in two or more places at once to warm up multiple riders, and/or to ride multiple horses. Not every barn is large enough to warrant having assistant trainers who can take over at other rings, which means that a ring with lower priority will have to wait on the ring with higher priority. Even if the show staff were able to arrange the ride times in such a way as to avoid trainer conflicts, all it would take would be one accident or one longer-than-planned course change to throw everything off between the different rings.

Events and dressage shows often do run multiple rings at once, but there are usually fewer rings still and the warm-up strategies are different. At a dressage show, a coach can warm up two riders for different classes at the same time because the necessary warm-up area is the same and the coach can simply tell the riders to do different movements. At a hunter/jumper show, two riders competing in two different classes are likely competing at different heights and each particular horse might do best with a different series of warm-up jumps. Without ride times, the trainer can group together those horses that can warm up together while keeping the others separate. At an event, the above dressage warm up applies similarly to the dressage phase, but the jumping warm-ups also tend to have jumps at fixed heights and widths shared by all with no trainer required to save one or to make adjustments. It also isn't likely that there would be two stadium rings or two cross-country courses running at once, which limits the potential for conflicts between divisions.

Jump-offs

In the jumper ring, the time per horse changes depending on whether the horse qualifies for the jump-off. Immediate jump-offs are easier on the horse and its connections by allowing for just one warm-up and no hanging around and waiting for the other horses to go. When it comes to timing, however, the immediate jump-off presents a problem because it isn't known in advance who will require those extra two minutes at the end of their round. If the show organizers were to add extra time to every ride to account for the jump-off, the day would run into the dark or horses would have to be turned away due to a lack of time. Another ring could be added to take the overflow, which would contribute even more to the trainer conflicts. Adding a smaller amount of extra time to every round to account for the occasional jump-off would make the actual ride times inaccurate and defeat the purpose of having anything more than a division start time and a posted order.

Again, this isn't a problem for the other disciplines because eventers don't have jump-offs, making everyone's round take a similar amount of time.

When ride times can work

At invitationals or shows that require qualification, the number of entries per class is known well in advance, making it possible to accurately time the schedule. These shows often only have one show ring or one main ring catering to a particularly large audience, making it possible for that ring to run without delays (if there is an annex ring, it could be prone to long waits due to trainer/rider conflicts if there are to be no delays in the main ring). Also, at these shows, course changes are planned out so carefully that they can be done in a very short and accurately-estimated amount of time. This is thanks to a large jump crew, a good course designer who can set the fence heights and filler in advance, and the knowledge of all that it needs to be done quickly.

What can be done to lessen the waiting around without instituting ride times?

For the vast majority of hunter/jumper shows, instituting ride times is just not realistic unless we want to change the flexible way in which we can currently compete or allow fewer horses to show. That isn't to say that things can't be done to improve the communication and lessen the waiting around. Here's a short list of improvements that shows can make:

• Have a white board at each in-gate with an estimated start time for each division, updated throughout the day to account for course length, course changes and trainer delays
• Post the number of entries per division the day before, even if some entries are expected to be added the day of (this at least makes it possible to calculate a "not-before" time). This is the norm at most 'A' circuit shows but is fairly uncommon at the lower levels
• Use online tools to update competitors on the progress in each ring in real time
• Record the start times of each division for use in estimating division start times at future editions of the same show 
• Keep the in-gates in communication with one another and encourage the trainers to plan their day with the aid of the in-gates

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How to Quickly Set Warm-Up Jumps

Jump-setting might not seem like a very difficult thing to do, but there is an art to doing it quickly. The number of jumps available in warm-up rings is limited, and setting the jumps slowly will slow the ring down while also disrupting the rider's warm-up routine. The last thing most riders want is to have to pull up or circle across others' jumps because their own jump wasn't set in time.

Learning how to set jumps quickly will not only make you a better ground person in general, but if you're interested, it will also give you a better chance of becoming a show groom if you prefer the horse show side of things to mucking out stalls. Many riders won't allow their grooms to set in the warm-up ring until they've displayed the ability to set jumps quickly at home. Coming to the job with that ability will give you a step up from the start.

Different riders and trainers have different preferences for the spacing of rails and ground lines and many variations can be made with those four rails and four standards that you have available. For that reason, I won't mention too much about when to move out/in ground lines or how to space the bottom rail(s).

The key to setting jumps quickly is to be efficient; if you minimize the number of steps to do or distance that you need to cover, you will be faster. It is much easier to set quickly with two people so that one can stay on each end of the jump without crossing back and forth and any changes in height or width can be made in unison to lessen the chances of rails accidentally falling. You're never guaranteed to have a partner, though, so this post will explain how to set jumps when you're alone. The same concepts apply, just with a few more steps and walking.

Initial setting

When you initially set up a jump, aim to get the height right immediately. With practice, you should be able to put the cups at a good starting height on all the standards so that any adjustments are within a hole. You can measure the jump against part of your body or simply remember how far down to reach your hand, whatever works best for you. If the standards all have similar markings or screw holes, those can be used to make the height even, too.

Most riders or trainers have a preference for what type of jump to start with, so you can go ahead and set the usual first jump before you've had a chance to ask what they'd like. Any changes from it are likely to be minor and setting the jump as soon as you get to it will allow the rider to begin their warm-up sooner.

If you're setting up the jump from scratch, first lay the jump rails on the ground where they will be positioned (just start with one for a vertical or two for an oxer). This will give you the spacing for the standards. Add the standards and then set the rails on the cups. Make your final height adjustments and then add in your ground lines and any rails below the top rail.

If I'm setting an oxer initially, I find it easiest to judge the squareness by using just the cups without rails. The roundness of the rails can throw off your sense of crouching level with the height, whereas the edges of the cups can give you good points to judge by. You can't accurately judge the squareness of an oxer without getting your eyes level with the rails or cups.

Once your first jump is set up, the variations will include changes in height, changes in width (for oxers), and changes from an oxer to a vertical or vice versa. Combinations can also be used in the warm-up ring at many shows, but those aren't used very frequently.

Changes in height

Changes in height are usually asked for by the rider or trainer calling, for example, "Up two", "Down two", "Up two behind" or "Down two in front". For a change that is specified as front or back, only change the side specified (it will be to either make a rampy oxer square or to make a square oxer rampy). Front is the side with the ground rail, or the side that the rider just jumped from or is in a position to jump from if there are ground rails on both sides. Just specifying the number of holes when you're setting an oxer usually means that the change should be made all around.

It's very important to keep track of which hole the jump was set at when you change the height. If you remove the pin or cup and the pole sinks down or bounces up, you won't have a reference to count from. For this reason, you should keep one hand under the rail as you remove the cup/pin with just enough force to keep the rail level (this can take practice). You can count holes with your fingers or your eyes depending on your personal preferences, as long as you're consistent. Ending up with an uneven jump for no good reason after a height change is frustrating to the rider warming up.

Be careful when making changes of more than two or three holes at once because the rail could slip off the upper cup if it's on too much of an angle since the distance between the cups will be greater. Having the rail fall on your foot or arm when this happens can be very painful!

Changes in width

The most common mistake I see with oxers being widened occurs when the changes are made in big steps rather than small ones. If you think about it, when you pull one standard out further than the other, you're making the distance between those standards greater. The rail will slide closer to the edge of the cup and if it slides too far, it will fall off and hit you or the ground. Having to reset the rail not only takes longer, but that heavy rail can cause a lot of damage to your body if you end up too close to it.

For that reason, if you're alone, you should make changes in width gradually, about six inches at a time, alternating sides. It takes a bit longer than doing each side in one shot, but it's safer and faster than having to reset a fallen rail. Make sure that you don't pull the standard towards the outside as you move it over or you'll make the distance even greater; the straighter you can keep the standard, the better.

Also, check that the rail is snug in the cups before moving the standards. If the rail is on the edge of the cup to begin with, it's almost guaranteed to fall when you widen the jump.

Small increments keep the rail in the cups

Larger increments bring the rail to the edge of the cups

It's also important not to make big changes in height and width at the same time because having the rail on an angle in two directions at once would exacerbate the problem.

If you have a ground line on each side of the oxer and need to widen it, first roll the ground line out on the side you're moving. Trying to push against a ground line is hard work and is likely to result in an angled standard and a fallen rail. It's much easier to roll the ground line out first and then roll it back into place after you've finished.

If you're ever asked for a skinny oxer, this usually means an oxer with the smallest width you can create. This is done by bringing the standards in with the feet beside one another but still resting on the ground, like this:

All of the same tips apply to lessening the width of an oxer as they do to widening one.

Oxer to vertical

Changing an oxer to a vertical is very easy; all you need to do is drop the back rail to the ground, swing the standards out of the way and then adjust the ground line on each side.

The reason for swinging the empty standards out is for safety and to make it easier to roll the ground line out without interference. If the horse drifts over the jump, leaving the standards in place could result in an injury to horse or rider from the cups or the standards themselves. Simply pivoting them away on the foot closest to the standard beside brings them out of the way and makes it easy to pivot them back into place for another oxer.

Vertical to oxer

Changing a vertical to an oxer is more complicated because it's more about building than about disassembling.

First, pivot your empty standards back into place and at your desired width. If the jump height has changed, try to make your height change now while there's no weight in the cups.

Next, take the ground line from what will be the back side of your oxer and put it in those cups.

Finally, double-check the height and roll the ground line in on the front side as far as desired.

Ground lines

Whenever you're rolling ground lines in or out, roll them from the center of the rail. If you try to roll them from the ends, the rail will roll on an angle and will require fixing. Nudging it with your foot as you walk past the center of the jump will make it roll out straight and takes very little time.

Whether you're grooming, simply helping a friend or setting jumps for yourself at home, learning how to set efficiently will make the process much easier on everyone and is a good skill to have and can help to avoid injuries on the ground that could interfere with your riding time! 

Tape on Jumper Warm-Up Standards

Have you ever wondered what those two lines of tape are doing on the jumper ring schooling standards at some horse shows?

Those lines are measured and taped by the show steward to make it easier for both riders and stewards to ensure that the height-related rules are being followed.

The lower line is put at 1.30m (4'3") and the higher line is at 1.60m (5'3"). For many, these heights will never be jumped in the warm-up ring anyway, but certain tape-related rules might still apply and the tape can help you keep track of how high you're jumping.

While the Canadian and American jumper warm-up rules do differ slightly, they are the same with regard to the tape with one exception. The Canadian rules do not allow riders to jump more than 10cm higher than the height of the competition currently taking place in the show ring. This means that if the class is running at 1.20m, the warm-up jump is only allowed to be adjusted up to the point where the top of the highest rail is even with the lower tape. Even for lower classes, knowing that the tape is at 1.30m can make it easier to estimate the height of any jump that is set.

The role of the higher tape is to set a limit for how high the horses are permitted to jump in the warm-up ring. Rails may not exceed the height of that top tape (1.60m) for any competition.

The lower tape helps to enforce the rule stating that a minimum of two rails must be used on the take-off side for any jump at 1.30m or higher, with the lower rail always staying below 1.30m. This is a way to avoid overly airy fences that would be unfair to the horse.

In addition, trot/canter/placement poles can only be used when the jump is set at 1.30m or lower (therefore the top of the highest rail mustn't be higher than the bottom tape when using any rails on the ground except for ground lines within 1.0m of the fence).

The tape-related rule most likely to affect those jumping the lower heights is that the cups used to build a cross-rail may not exceed 1.30m. Because the middle of a cross-rail where it is jumped is much lower than the height of the cups, it's quite easy to approach the height of the tape when raising an X to anything more than a relatively low height.

For full warm-up rules, you can check the individual rule books:

EC rules

USEF rules

Ideal Weight for Jumping Horses

The ideal weight for competition horses can be a tricky subject because there exists an ideal of a happy fat hunter. Overweight horses are not, however, healthy horses, and extra weight is an especially bad thing when jumping is involved because the force exerted on a single leg can be several times the weight of the horse. Managing the weight not only keeps the horse more comfortable and able to do its job properly, but it also helps to prevent injuries.

Most riders will look down upon a horse presented at a show that is too thin, but we're still in the midst of altering the general mentality towards overweight horses. In this post, we'll look at both sides as well as what I would consider to be an ideal weight, and why we aim for it.

Underweight horses

An underweight horse naturally elicits a negative reaction because we associate it with starvation. In addition, protruding ribs and hips are not attractive, and it could be very difficult to find tack that fits.

Not only is there an aesthetic problem with showing an underweight horse, but the horse is also likely to lack the energy to perform, especially over repeated classes throughout the day or across a week or more of showing.

Overweight horses

While overweight horses might be more aesthetically appealing to some, well-fed does not equal healthy. Excess fat cover can make it very difficult for a horse to stay cool while competing in the summer (all of that fat acts as insulation to keep the heat in), while at the same time making saddle fit difficult and increasing the chances of the saddle slipping from side to side. Overweight horses simply do not have the same stamina as a horse of ideal weight, even when ridden daily.

The biggest problem with an overweight jumping horse is that one front leg must withstand a force several times the horse's weight when landing from a fence. Any extra weight therefore puts extra strain on the bones, tendons, ligaments, etc., increasing the chances of injury.

Ideal weight

At an ideal weight, the horse both looks aesthetically pleasing and has the energy to compete, without exhausting itself carrying around extra pounds and the horsey equivalent of an extra layer of clothing in the summertime. The stresses on the legs and body are minimized by keeping the horse trim,

Evaluating weight

There are two systems of equine body scoring: the six-point Carroll system and the nine-point Henneke system. My preference is for the Henneke system, which is what we'll look at in this post.

The system uses six parts of the body, and an average is taken to come up with an overall score for that horse. Some aspects are visual while others require feeling that part of the body (for example, the ribs, which provide an easy indicator of when your horse is definitely overweight if you can barely feel them).

Here are a few resources to help you determine your horse's body condition score (BCS):

Purina BCS PDF

Saracen BCS chart

Animal Protection Coalition BCS chart

No research has been done, to my knowledge, to scientifically pinpoint the ideal body condition score for a hunter or jumper, but common sense can give us a good approximation. In my opinion, a jumper should be in the range of 4.5 to 5.5 since there is a lot of stamina required and the fence heights tend to be higher, putting more stress on the limbs. The vast majority of high-level jumpers fall into this range, and they are maintained there for a very good reason. For a hunter, because the fence heights are lower and the ability to maintain speed is not a factor, a BCS of 5 to a maximum of 6 should be acceptable.

Horses who are overweight should have their food cut back, preferably by providing smaller portions rather than feeding less frequently in order to maintain gut health and reduce the chance of ulcers forming. Good exercise is also important. Underweight horses (excluding extremely thin horses who need a special slow feeding program) might benefit from having constant access to hay, along with the addition of oil, alfalfa cubes and/or beet pulp to the feeding program.

How to Dress for a Jumping Clinic

Clinics can be a fantastic way to get off the property while at the same time getting coaching from another set of eyes. Turning your horse out well for a clinic is a way of showing respect for the clinician, so this post will cover the ideal turnout for both informal and very formal clinics.

The best way to find out what is expected in terms of turnout for a particular clinic is to contact the organizer. If formal turnout is expected, they are likely to mention it at some point in the communication prior to the clinic. For most clinics, informal turnout should suffice as full formal turnout is usually only seen for a select few clinics with certain world-class clinicians.

Informal Turnout

My general rule of thumb is that the horse and rider shouldn't look out of place in a mid-week jumper class. That means that everything should be neat and tidy and fairly conservative, but without braiding or wearing a show jacket.

For warm-weather clinics, the rider should wear a tucked-in polo shirt, beige breeches (or breeches of a similarly light colour), belt, polished field boots and a helmet. Many riders will also wear gloves, and hair should be neatly contained as you would wear it at a show. If you must use paddock boots and half chaps instead of field boots, make sure that they are clean and polished.

In cooler weather, a fitted sweater can be added, and for even colder weather, a fitted jacket. Baggy clothing is not acceptable when the clinician needs to be able to see you ride! In extremely cold weather, the use of winter riding breeches or boots would certainly be understood even though these sometimes do not come in show colours or finishes. Riding in a clinic will usually warm you up quickly, so wearing layers that can easily be removed is ideal.

The horse should be as clean as possible, including any white markings. The mane should be neat and shortened (braid it over before the clinic if it tends to be messy) and the tail fully brushed out. The hooves can be oiled and the face and legs should be trimmed. In cold weather, a full show clip is not necessary. The saddle pad can be either square or shaped, but should be white, black or another conservative colour. The tack should all be just as clean as it would be for a horse show, and you can start with the set-up that you feel most comfortable in, aside from any devices like draw reins that do not belong at a clinic. Try to bring a few extra bits, spurs and martingales with you in case the clinician wishes for you to try something different. You should also carry a crop unless your horse cannot be ridden with one.

Formal Turnout

Formal turnout is essentially what you might show in on the weekend, adding in braiding and a show shirt and jacket. Again, this type of turnout is not common for jumping clinics (99.9% of the time you'll be fine with the informal turnout) so ask the organizer if you suspect that it might be expected.

Formal turnout should follow the same general rules as informal turnout except for braiding the mane and wearing a show jacket instead of a polo shirt . I would expect to see a hunter in a fitted pad with hunter braids while the jumper can wear a conservative square pad with either hunter or jumper braids.

The horse should also have a full body clip in cold weather for this sort of clinic. The odds are that if the horse is entered in such a high-level clinic, it will be worked hard enough at home to warrant the full clip, anyway.

How to Hang a Hay Net

Hay nets are often used while trailering to allow the horses to eat during the trip, or while at shows to keep hay in front of a difficult keeper. There are risks involved, however, with the large hoof-sized holes and the general ability of horses to get themselves into trouble, so hanging them safely is very important.

The easiest way to fill a hay net is to stretch the opening over the end of a bale rather than trying to wrestle individual flakes into the net one at a time. Once the net is full, pulling the drawstring closes the opening. Rather than wrestling with knots, the easiest way to keep the net shut is to pull the drawstring so that the knot sits against the rings of the hay net, holding them together. This also ensures that the knot will stay out of the way when you hang the net up.

Step two is to find somewhere to hang the net. Horse trailers often have welded loops set high in the trailer that are perfect for this purpose. In some cases, the bars on the trailer window have to suffice. In a stall, a hay net can be hung from a high bar (temporary show stalls usually have a bar that runs all the way around the top of the stall that is ideal for this) or through a screw-eye set high on a wooden wall. It's important to hang it from a high enough spot so that the bottom of the hay net will remain well out of reach of the horse's legs. Safety-wise, it's better to tie a hay net too high than too low. Aiming for wither-height or higher when hung should be safe. Once you have found a suitable spot, run the drawstring around the bar or through the loop and then pull the hay net up as high as it will go (it will slip down slightly as you tie it).

Keeping tension on the drawstring so that the hay net stays up, pull it down and hook it around a string near the bottom of the hay net. Pull the drawstring back up towards the top of the hay net, bringing the lower part of the net up with it.

Loop it back through the upper section of draw string...

 ...and tie a quick release knot to secure the hay net.

Flip the net around so that the quick release knot lies against the wall, away from the horse so that it is less likely to be accidentally untied by teeth.

This last photo illustrates why it's so important to double up the hay net by hooking the drawstring around a bottom string while hanging the net. As you add hay, the string diamonds that make up the net become wider, making the whole net shorter. As it empties, the diamonds end up with less and less width, making them longer until all of the string is hanging vertically when empty, making the net almost twice as long as when it's full. The doubled hay net will stay up high even when it's empty, while a non-doubled net hung at the same height will produce something like this red net, hanging dangerously close to the ground (both nets are the same size!):

Crossing Over Into Dressage

Sometimes it can be beneficial to take your horse to a dressage show as a chance to get off property or as a schooling opportunity. There is a lot of conflicting information available about what from the hunter and jumper rings is and is not allowed in the dressage ring, so this post will attempt to clarify things.

The advice in this post will be for attending schooling or Bronze-level shows, as these are the most likely shows for a hunter or jumper to attend. Keep in mind that the judging is usually more lenient at the lower rated shows and you're likely to be able to get away with more legal "faux pas" that might garner you more dirty looks at a Gold level show. 

Choose Your Level

Check out the tests of the various levels that you're considering showing at (the show should make it clear whose tests are being used; check out Dressage Canada and CADORA for the most commonly-used tests). The horse show's prize list should let you know which tests are being offered. Generally, the more advanced tests for each level are used later in the year while the easier ones will be used at the beginning to allow for an increase in difficulty.

If this is your first dressage show, you'll probably be looking at Walk/Trot or Training Level, or First Level if your horse is very well-schooled on the flat. Walk/Trot is, as the name implies, a test consisting of only walk and trot with the most basic figures. Training Level consists of walk, trot and canter (all working), as well as the basic figures. First Level introduces lengthenings in the trot and canter, as well as leg-yielding, 10m (trot) and 15m (canter) circles, and preparation for the counter canter. Most dressage riders school one level above what they show at, so you shouldn't necessarily choose the level with movements that you're just learning.

Study your test alongside an arena diagram to determine where each movement should be performed, as well as to choose visual markers to help make circles and other figures the correct size and shape.

Tack and Apparel

You will be just fine attending a dressage show (but always double check the rules governing your show series, just in case!) with your brown jumping saddle and beige breeches. Wear your darkest show jacket and a white show shirt, with either a regular choker or a stock tie. Your field boots will also be acceptable, as will be your dark gloves. Check the rule book to confirm that your spurs are acceptable, as well as the length of your dressage whip if you use one.

Most dressage riders put their hair in a bun below the base of the helmet, but hunter hair is also acceptable.

Most dressage riders will use a loose ring snaffle with a flash or regular cavesson, but you are also allowed to use eggbutts (including full cheeks) and D-rings. Check the rule book to find out if your mouthpiece is acceptable. Many dressage riders consider a figure-eight noseband to be a faux pas, but it is allowed and I showed at First Level with one without the judge or steward commenting on it. You may also use rubber reins, webbed reins or leather reins, depending on your personal preference. Most riders will use a square white saddle pad, but you're allowed to use a fitted pad, or another conservative colour, if you wish.

Your horse may be allowed to wear a fly veil (check your local rules), but keep it conservative. Don't stuff the ears or you will get eliminated.

You are allowed to use a running martingale for schooling, but no martingales may be used in the show ring. Many schooling shows will allow the horse to wear conservative boots or bandages in the show ring, but most riders will remove them after the warm-up anyway.

Dressage riders tend to put less emphasis on braiding than do hunters or jumpers (I've seen dressage horses at national shows with four braids total), so whatever you're used to doing as braids, whether with yarn or elastics, is likely to be acceptable as long as the mane is braided and neat.

Numbers are usually worn either on the bridle or on the saddle pad, depending on the type of number given to you. The bridle numbers have a little hook that you put through the browband loop as you would a ribbon, while the saddle pad numbers will come with pins or holes for pins. The number is usually put on the side that the judge will see as you turn left or right at C after your initial halt.

Times

You will be given ride times for your classes, often posted online. Re-check the day before the show because the times can be changed to manage conflicts. Also be aware that the rings can run early or late, so you should always check with the in-gate throughout the day. They should be able to provide you with an estimate of how many minutes you should adjust your time by. If the ring is running early, everyone will appreciate it if you move up and go early, but I don't believe that they can force you to go before your time.

Class Procedure

Plan your warm-up so that you will have a few extra minutes to remove any bandages, put your jacket on, etc. before heading into the show ring.

You will be allowed to enter the area around the show ring when the rider ahead of you has done their final halt and salute. You may work your horse around the outside of the show ring until the judge rings the bell, at which point you will have 45 seconds to get in the ring to begin your test (45 seconds is plenty of time to gather yourself and trot around the entire ring without rushing). If the judge looks up at you while you pass by the booth before your test starts, you should say "Good morning" or "Good afternoon" and confirm your number with the judge and scribe if they ask for it.

If you have a caller with you, they can enter the exterior of the ring at the same time as you and they should position themselves at E or B just outside of the show ring, preferably facing away from any other show rings to avoid disturbing other riders. If the ring is isolated, it's best for the caller to stand on the side that is upwind of you.

To salute, first halt your horse, put both reins in one hand, then drop the other hand (not the one carrying a whip!) down beside your leg, nod your head, and then pick your reins back up.

Once you have completed your final halt, you must leave the ring at the walk on a loose rein. Most riders will continue straight towards the judge before turning back towards A in case he or she wishes to give any verbal comments, and so that the rider can thank the judge. This also teaches the horse to continue moving in a straight line after a halt.

Tack Check

As you exit the ring, refrain from stopping or changing any equipment. Don't let anyone touch you or your horse until you reach the tack check area, where a steward will be waiting to make sure that your equipment, including the mouthpiece of the bit, is all legal. Once the steward has given you the okay, you can start removing tack and apparel if you have time to relax between tests. If the tack check is not performed (provided there is one at a schooling show), you will not be allowed to collect any ribbons or prizes.

Ribbons and Remarks

The awards need to wait until all of the scores have been tabulated and recorded, which can take anywhere from minutes (if computerized) to hours. Many dressage shows simply hand out ribbons from the secretary's office rather than having a formal awards ceremony. You will receive a copy of your test with the judge's remarks at the same time as your ribbon so that you can learn what the judge liked or disliked about each of the various movements and the test as a whole.

Terminology

- Working gaits: Often more energetic than what we think of as the working gaits of hunters and jumpers, but not a longer stride.
- Free walk: A lengthening of stride and frame in the walk, along with a stretch over the back. Make sure that your horse maintains energy rather than thinking of the walk as a break. The degree of contact desired (light or loose) seems to vary from region to region.
- Stretchy trot circle: Allow the horse to take the reins to really stretch down and out while maintaining just a light contact. Start to pick up your reins with about 1/4 of the circle left to go.
- Half circle: Completing only half the circle to form a semi circle.
- Medium walk: More step than a working walk; they're looking for the horse to really march.
- Loop: Similar to a shallow serpentine in shape, hitting all of the designated letters.