Going First

This show season I've noticed one thing in particular that drives in-gates, judges, show management and coaches/riders alike crazy: the first rider of the class who isn't ready on time. This happens in both the hunter ring and the jumper ring, and each time it slows down the day for everyone and makes it extra difficult to determine when the later riders will need to get ready.

There are several possible reasons why you might end up being the first horse into the ring for your class. In some cases you might prefer to go at the beginning, there might be a posted order and you were drawn first, you might have arrived late and the remaining spot is first, or you might have added into the class and as a result you were put at the top of the order. Going at the top of the order can be a desirable thing for certain horses and riders: easier scheduling, an earlier finish, multiple horses with the same rider in one class, a quieter warm-up area, etc.

Keep in mind that in many cases you will still be expected to return to the ring with your horse at the end of the class for a jog or ribbon presentation even if you go early in the order.

In the hunter ring there is no excuse not to be ready when the class begins. The course has already been posted and you should have learned it early in the day, there is no course walk, and if you've been keeping up to date with how the earlier classes are running you should have no problem getting warmed up and to the ring on time. If you expect that there might be a conflict with your trainer or if you're also riding another horse in a different ring, warn the in-gate in advance that you might not be able to make it on time. Without warning, the in-gate won't know whether you've decided not to compete in the class after all, and knowing about the conflict will enable him or her to communicate with the other ring to maintain an appropriate order of go.

When it comes to the jumpers, going first can be a bit more complicated. Ideally, you will walk your course with an earlier class so that you can warm up during your own class's course walk. If you can't walk the course ahead of time, you need to have someone at the ring to hold your horse during the course walk. When you're first in the order, there isn't time to run back to your stall or trailer to fetch your horse after the walk. Look at the course diagram well ahead of time so that you can head right in for the walk without having to learn the pattern at the same time. If your class is the first of the day, keep in mind that you can walk the course as soon as it's set; there's no need to wait until the last minute!

All of your flatwork needs to be done before the course walk, and preferably you'll be able to jump most of your warm-up jumps ahead of the walk, too. Once you complete your course walk (and try very hard not to be the last one left walking in the ring), get right back on your horse and jump a final warm-up jump or two to get back into the rhythm before heading to the in-gate.

This is the routine that others will be expecting of you, and you will throw off the timing of other riders' warm-ups if you don't promptly walk up to the in-gate following the course walk.

Unsure of when you might be expected to go first? If you're entering a mini prix, classic or any other class with a posted order day-of, expect to be put at the top of the order of go. Any time there is a drawn/posted order you could potentially be first, so check the order well in advance if you can. Lastly, if you don't sign in early for a class that's running as a sign-in rather than as a posted order, the remaining spots are likely to be near the beginning of the class. In this case there might be more leeway for moving the order around depending on the particular horse show, but you will likely be expected to go early if possible.

That being said, if you aren't sure where you will be in the order, always assume that you might have to go first and enjoy the breathing room if you end up being able to take more time to get ready. Having everyone arrive at the ring promptly is something that everyone on the showgrounds will appreciate, and it will make for that much less "hurry up and wait" for all.

Unusual Tack: The Bib Martingale

by Clément Bucco-Lechat - Own work.
Licenced under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

The bib martingale looks very strange if you have never seen one before. It is essentially a running martingale in which the space between the two split straps is filled in with a triangular piece of leather.

As with many pieces of tack, there are those who use the bib martingale because of the look, rather than for any particular practical reason. For others, however, there are some legitimate reasons why a rider might choose the bib martingale over the more standard running martingale.

The construction of the bib martingale results in no loose straps. For a mouthy horse who will sometimes over-flex, this means that there are no straps that the horse could grab onto and potentially catch in the mouth. For a horse like this, the bib martingale not only protects the martingale from damage by the teeth, but it can also prevent serious accidents associated with the horse getting caught and panicking.

by Clément Bucco-Lechat - Own
work. Licenced under CC BY-SA
3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

In the racing world, bib martingales can also act similarly to an Irish martingale in keeping the reins from potentially flipping over the head, though that is an unlikely occurrence in the jumper world.

One downside to the bib martingale is that it prevents the rider from using an opening rein (moving the hand away from the neck in the direction of a turn without pulling back) because the reins are held close together by the bib. It's possible that in some instances the rider might find it easier to keep the horse straight due to the channeling of the reins in this manner, though steering might be negatively affected.

Because the bib martingale is essentially a modified running martingale, it should be adjusted in the same way as a running martingale (as a rough guide, it should be long enough for the rings to reach the bottom of the throat latch when the martingale is pulled up with the horse standing relaxed).

by Clément Bucco-Lechat - Own
work. Licenced under CC BY-SA
3.0 via Wikimedia Commons

Young Horse Boots

I have heard of some eliminations as a result of riders not being aware of the new boot rule for young horse classes, so here's everything you need to know if you plan on competing in a young horse class run under FEI rules:

FEI Article 257.2.4

For all international Young Horses Competitions (five *, six, seven and eight year old Horses): All hind leg protections must have a maximum interior length of 16 centimetres; the width of the fastener must be at least five centimeters (refer to FEI Jumping Stewards’ Manual on the FEI website for diagram).

 * NB: Competitions for five year old Horses may only be held at the FEI World Breeding Jumping Championships for Young Horses, unless special authorisation has been granted by the FEI.

The following criteria must be respected in relation to hind boots worn in international Young Horses Competitions (see also the FEI Jumping Stewards Manual on the FEI website):

The inside of the protection must be smooth. Only non-elastic Velcro-type fasteners are permitted; no hooks, buckles, clips or other methods of attaching the fasteners may be used;

The rounded rigid part of the protection must be placed around the inside of the fetlock;

No additional elements may be used in conjunction with the protection.

Here is a page from the Stewards Manual showing examples:

The gist of the rule is that hind boots mustn't have elastic, must have only wide velcro closures, and mustn't have any protrusions on the inside (smoothness refers to a lack of protrusions rather than to a specific type of material, as far as I am aware).

This rule, designed for the welfare of the horse, aims to reduce the practice of over-tightening boots to increase sensitivity and the use of boots designed to exaggerate the movement of the hind end over fences by applying pressure. 

There are not many brands of boots that currently fit these criteria. I am currently aware only of the Young Jump boots made by Veredus that are definitely allowed and will update this post with any others that I come across. There are several basic neoprene types of boots that should fall within the guidelines, but it's best to check in person before purchasing to make sure that there is no elastic on the straps.

Why Hunters and Jumpers Don't Have Ride Times

There is one question that is bound to come up any time a horse show runs late or after a particularly long episode of "hurry up and wait". That question is "Why don't hunter/jumper shows have ride times?". The concept works well in the dressage and eventing worlds, so why not in the hunter and jumper rings as well?

It turns out that it isn't simply the hunter/jumper world being stubborn or show organizers wanting to torture the competitors; there are fundamental differences between the disciplines that make it very difficult to assign accurate times in most cases.

Adds/scratches

One of the biggest reasons why ride times are so difficult to use in the hunter/jumper world is because we have the ability to add or scratch classes, with no limit (aside from monetary penalties) until the class is over. This structure allows a horse to be moved up or down in height depending on how things are going that week or even on that day, with no guesswork as to what the horse might be ready for weeks in the future. It allows trainers to enter the horse in as many or as few classes as are needed to get the best out of the horse on that day.

In the dressage and eventing worlds, you need to declare which classes you'll be entering at least one or two weeks before the actual show date. This is not a big deal because a horse will usually be aimed at one particular level throughout the season, or there might be a plan to upgrade at a particular event known to be on the easier side. In the jumper world in particular, moving up is done when the horse or rider is felt to be ready for it, and factors such as course design can come into play to determine the timing, which is difficult to know in advance. Given that it takes several days to draw up ride times, classes would have to be entered at least a week in advance and without the knowledge of how confident the horse or rider will be feeling that particular week.

In the hunter ring, if the trainer feels that a horse is spooky in the show ring, they currently have the ability to enter the horse in any additional classes that it is eligible for in order to get more ring time. If declarations had to be made far in advance, guesses would have to be made about the number of classes needed and a horse might end up too tired or too spooky to perform well in its main division.

Number of rings

Another aspect that makes many hunter/jumper shows very different from the other disciplines is the number of rings running at one time. Hunters and jumpers are very popular, and that means that there is a huge number of horses showing each day, split into multiple rings. With multiple rings come trainer conflicts.

Trainer conflicts occur when a trainer has to be in two or more places at once to warm up multiple riders, and/or to ride multiple horses. Not every barn is large enough to warrant having assistant trainers who can take over at other rings, which means that a ring with lower priority will have to wait on the ring with higher priority. Even if the show staff were able to arrange the ride times in such a way as to avoid trainer conflicts, all it would take would be one accident or one longer-than-planned course change to throw everything off between the different rings.

Events and dressage shows often do run multiple rings at once, but there are usually fewer rings still and the warm-up strategies are different. At a dressage show, a coach can warm up two riders for different classes at the same time because the necessary warm-up area is the same and the coach can simply tell the riders to do different movements. At a hunter/jumper show, two riders competing in two different classes are likely competing at different heights and each particular horse might do best with a different series of warm-up jumps. Without ride times, the trainer can group together those horses that can warm up together while keeping the others separate. At an event, the above dressage warm up applies similarly to the dressage phase, but the jumping warm-ups also tend to have jumps at fixed heights and widths shared by all with no trainer required to save one or to make adjustments. It also isn't likely that there would be two stadium rings or two cross-country courses running at once, which limits the potential for conflicts between divisions.

Jump-offs

In the jumper ring, the time per horse changes depending on whether the horse qualifies for the jump-off. Immediate jump-offs are easier on the horse and its connections by allowing for just one warm-up and no hanging around and waiting for the other horses to go. When it comes to timing, however, the immediate jump-off presents a problem because it isn't known in advance who will require those extra two minutes at the end of their round. If the show organizers were to add extra time to every ride to account for the jump-off, the day would run into the dark or horses would have to be turned away due to a lack of time. Another ring could be added to take the overflow, which would contribute even more to the trainer conflicts. Adding a smaller amount of extra time to every round to account for the occasional jump-off would make the actual ride times inaccurate and defeat the purpose of having anything more than a division start time and a posted order.

Again, this isn't a problem for the other disciplines because eventers don't have jump-offs, making everyone's round take a similar amount of time.

When ride times can work

At invitationals or shows that require qualification, the number of entries per class is known well in advance, making it possible to accurately time the schedule. These shows often only have one show ring or one main ring catering to a particularly large audience, making it possible for that ring to run without delays (if there is an annex ring, it could be prone to long waits due to trainer/rider conflicts if there are to be no delays in the main ring). Also, at these shows, course changes are planned out so carefully that they can be done in a very short and accurately-estimated amount of time. This is thanks to a large jump crew, a good course designer who can set the fence heights and filler in advance, and the knowledge of all that it needs to be done quickly.

What can be done to lessen the waiting around without instituting ride times?

For the vast majority of hunter/jumper shows, instituting ride times is just not realistic unless we want to change the flexible way in which we can currently compete or allow fewer horses to show. That isn't to say that things can't be done to improve the communication and lessen the waiting around. Here's a short list of improvements that shows can make:

• Have a white board at each in-gate with an estimated start time for each division, updated throughout the day to account for course length, course changes and trainer delays
• Post the number of entries per division the day before, even if some entries are expected to be added the day of (this at least makes it possible to calculate a "not-before" time). This is the norm at most 'A' circuit shows but is fairly uncommon at the lower levels
• Use online tools to update competitors on the progress in each ring in real time
• Record the start times of each division for use in estimating division start times at future editions of the same show 
• Keep the in-gates in communication with one another and encourage the trainers to plan their day with the aid of the in-gates

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FAQ, Part 11

Are red jackets appropriate attire for the jumper ring?

The answer depends on what colour the national team jacket is in your country. If the team wears red, it's a faux-pas to wear the same colour that those team members have worked so hard to earn. The same applies for non-red team jacket colours in other countries as well, though some countries use common jacket colours that are distinguished by coloured collars or patches.

Brightly-coloured show jackets are becoming more and more popular in the jumper ring, making colours like red more widely available than they used to be. As a result, you will occasionally see a rider wearing the same colour as the national team, but while it is not against the rules in every country, it is still frowned upon by most. Check the rules of your national federation before you go out shopping, and do your best to avoid the same colour combination as your national team (both jacket and collar) even if it isn't explicitly written in the rule book.

How can I keep the cheeks on my hackamore bridle from going into my horse's eyes?

This is a common problem with hackamores, exacerbated by the curb action that can swing a seemingly well-fitted bridle towards the eyes.

If your hackamore is adjustable, you can try making it wider so that the cheek pieces attach further away from the bridge of the nose, bringing them slightly away from the eyes as well.

If your hackamore is a fixed size, the trick is to tie the cheek pieces away from the eyes by adding a string or strap to the bridle. Simply tie a piece of conservatively-coloured string (number string works well, or anything else like a shoe lace that isn't likely to rub) from about halfway up one cheekpiece, under the jaw and up around to the other cheekpiece. Make it tight enough to keep the cheekpieces out of the eyes, but not so tight that it will rub or restrict the horse in any way. A leather strap of an appropriate length could also be used to the same purpose (spur straps, a shortened bradoon hanger, etc.).

If you do a Google image search for Russel Skelton Royal Fair, a couple of examples will pop up showing what the set-up should look like.

Why aren't hunter score sheets made public?

Quite simply, most people would not understand them if they were. Unlike dressage with its single score sheet per horse and myriad comments, a hunter class is scored with only one line of symbols and notes per horse, necessitating the use of symbols that each judge finds fastest and easiest to use, and which can vary from judge to judge. Because hunter judges don't have scribes, this system allows the judge to keep as much focus on the horse as possible with minimal writing and no delays between rounds for writing comments, as well as the ability to compare rounds quickly without flipping pages.

Any comments are usually more for the judge to remember the round for comparing scoring than to comment on every aspect of it, while the more obvious symbols such as the shape of each jump should have been felt and seen by the rider and coach, anyway.

Which type of hair net is the correct choice for the hunter ring?

There are three categories of hair net marketed for riding: traditional two-knot hair nets, one-knot hair nets, and no-knot hair nets. The two-knot hair nets can be uncomfortable because of the multiple knots, but this also keeps them tighter and less baggy than the more comfortable one-knot type (no pressure points if the knot is put in the back but the hair net can puff outwards if not tucked in). No-knot hair nets are like bands, open at the top of the head.

Because only the edge of the hair net will ever show under your helmet anyway, there is no one correct choice. Choose the option that is most comfortable for you while still allowing you to keep your hair neatly contained.

What should I do if the zipper on my boot breaks?

If your federation's rules allow you to compete in your schooling paddock boots and half chaps, you can switch to those if you are able to clean and polish them to show ring standards.

If you don't have a back-up set of boots with you, you can use electrical or duct tape (preferably black) wrapped around the boot to keep it closed. Zippers tend to break at the worst possible times, so black tape is a good thing to have in your tack box just in case. Try to have the zipper repaired as soon as you can, but everyone is likely to be understanding of inconspicuous tape in the meantime because it has happened to so many.

Studs 101

Disclaimer:  If you have never used screw-in studs (aka caulks, aka corks) before, and even if you have, they should be employed under the guidance of your farrier and/or trainer. Adding studs to your horse's shoes will change the way that the feet move across the ground, making it very important not to over-stud, and it's possible to damage a shoe or your horse's foot by putting them in improperly. For these reasons, I strongly recommend that you use this post only as a reference while getting hands-on help from a horse person who you trust.

Your stud kit

Some tack shops sell ready-made stud kits, which can be convenient but could make it difficult for you to grow your stud collection or store additional tools. It isn't difficult to assemble your own kit.

A stud kit

For your stud kit, you will first need a box in which to store everything. It's best to keep everything together so that you don't end up missing a vital component when you're away from home. Plastic tackle boxes work extremely well for stud kits; they come in a variety of sizes, often with removable dividers that will allow you to keep the studs grouped appropriately.

A stud hole cleaner

Next, you will need a stud hole cleaner. Some riders prefer to just use a horse shoe nail to clean the holes, but I appreciate having the wire brush as well to make the holes even cleaner. They are very inexpensive and are available at most tack shops.

A T-tap (left) and a hardware store
tap (right) with homemade handle

You will also need a tap. They come in a variety of shapes, from the traditional t-tap to the more modern safety taps. You can even purchase taps from hardware stores, in which case you'll need to bring along a stud or tack store tap to check for the correct size with the store's thread checker. I have found that these taps are much sharper/more effective, but for that reason might not be ideal for someone starting out who might cross-thread more often. You'll also need to purchase or create a handle for a hardware store tap (which allows just the tap section to be replaced when it wears out).

Next on the list is at least one wrench. Adjustable wrenches work well if you have studs of different widths, or you can just keep a plain wrench on hand of each size that you need so that there's no need to fiddle. Do not use vise grips as these will strip the edges from your studs and eventually give you nothing to grab onto to get them out of the shoes!

Another item that you should keep on hand is some sort of oil or specially-formulated stud soap to keep the studs in good shape. I just use WD-40.

Your horse will need to be shod, preferably in steel as opposed to softer aluminum shoes that will not maintain their threads as well. You will need to ask your farrier to drill holes for the studs in the shoes before they're put on your horse's feet (there is usually an extra charge for this).

Last but not least, you'll need the studs themselves, available from most tack shops. You'll want to start with enough of each type/size that you think you might need for either two or all four shoes, as well as a couple of extras for when those get lost (with studs, it's always a "when" and not an "if").

There are some extra items that you can purchase, such as a magnetic stud dish or arm band to lessen the chances of dropping/losing a stud, but the basics that I listed above should get you by easily.

Choosing studs

Studs can be roughly divided into four categories, depending on their shape and size, although there is a lot of overlap between categories. Most horses will not need a wide variety of studs as the larger ones are typically used for extreme footing/terrain or horses that really need that extra grip for the bigger jumps. Your coach or farrier should be able to suggest the best types for your horse and the particular footing that you expect to contend with.

Usually the studs on the front shoes will be smaller than on the back to minimize injury, both to the horse's stomach and to the legs (a belly pad girth will help to protect the stomach from front studs). The hind end requires the most traction anyway and there is less potential for injury when using bigger studs there, though a horse can still puncture itself by stepping on one hind foot with the other. You can use different studs of similar height on the same foot if you want to have something sharper on the outside, but it's necessary to try to keep the forces on the foot as even as possible when doing so.

Road studs

These are only a few millimetres high and give just a small amount of traction. Because they are small, they don't change the horse's way of going very much and are less likely than other types to cause injury. They are often used for the front shoes when nothing bigger is required.

Grass tips

Grass tips are narrow, pointy studs that can bite into fairly hard ground. Because they are so sharp, they are risky to use on the inside branch of the horse shoe where the horse might accidentally step on itself.

Bullets

Bullets are a good general-purpose stud because they are fairly pointy, enabling them to grab into the footing, while having enough surface area that they can provide some traction in deep or wet footing. They also come in many different heights to suit a variety of purposes.


Blocks

Blocks are fairly blunt, square-ish studs intended to provide a lot of surface area for the horse to push against in soft or muddy footing. They're less likely to draw blood if a horse missteps than the sharper options but they don't have the same ability to sink into and grab more solid footing. They may or may not have a small tip.

Inserting studs

The first thing you'll need to do is clean the holes. If possible, have the horse on clean, hard ground so that you won't lose all of your hard work if the horse pulls its foot away from you. Otherwise, you'll need to go through every step one foot at a time without putting the foot down in order to keep the holes clean.

With the nail end of your stud hole cleaner, loosen up the dirt in each stud hole, flinging as much out of the hole as you can. Once that's done, turn the tool around and twist the wire brush into the hole. Give it a turn or two at the bottom and then twist it out again. If there is any large debris left in the hole (a small piece of gravel, etc.), keep cleaning until you get it out.

Next, you'll need to use your tap. If you use studs frequently it might not be necessary to tap every time, but you aren't likely to be able to avoid it otherwise. The tap will clean up the threads of the stud hole, which can get damaged by dirt and other debris, while also clearing out any dirt that the wire brush missed. Insert the tap so that it is in line with the hole, never at an angle, and gently allow the threads to catch. Don't force it or you risk cross-threading and potentially ruining the hole. Turn the tap just until you encounter resistance; go any further and you risk hurting your horse's hoof.

It's extremely important not to allow the horse to put its foot down while the tap is screwed in (even safety taps could potentially bend slightly in such a case). Not only could the tap get jammed up into the hoof, but it could also damage the stud hole enough to get itself stuck or to make it difficult to screw a stud in later. As soon as you feel resistance, unscrew the tap without delay.

At this point, the hole should be ready for a stud. You can clean the holes ahead of time and plug them to make inserting the studs easier later (for example, to allow the horse to trailer without studs or to keep your show clothes clean), or you can immediately insert the studs.

To insert a stud, simply align your chosen stud with the hole and gently screw it in at least one turn by hand. This will keep the stud from falling out of the hole while you fasten the wrench. Attach the wrench and tighten the stud until it's snug (if your hole and stud are clean, there should not be a gap left between the shoe and the base of the stud). If you don't tighten enough, the stud could work its way loose during your ride and come off, while over-tightening can make it difficult to get the studs out again without torquing your horse's foot.

To remove a stud, simply reverse the process: use the wrench to loosen the stud until you can do the final turns by hand to avoid the stud flying off. You will need to clean the studs before the dirt hardens (the wire brush on your stud hole cleaner works well for this, as well as the nail for scraping the corners) and then oil them to keep them from rusting. Some people prefer to use a product such as Stud Suds to immerse their studs in a cleaning/lubricating solution, but I like to just put my clean studs back into their section of the box and give them a spray of WD-40. Close the lid, shake the box gently, and you'll end up with evenly-coated studs without you having to handle them while they're really oily. You can fit a small piece of paper towel to the bottom of each section of studs to absorb any excess oil.

It's important to remove the studs promptly when they're no longer needed to keep the stress on the horse's tendons to a minimum (studs on hard ground change the hoof angle in addition to changing how the hoof moves across the ground), as well as to prevent injuries from the horse stepping on itself.

If you wish to use plugs, there are several options available:

There are screw-in metal blanks that can be inserted and removed with an Allen key, the most expensive option initially and a risk if you lose your Allen key or if they get stuck from a lack of grease.

Foam, rubber and cotton plugs are all disposable and each has its pros and cons. There doesn't seem to be a consensus on which works best so you'll need to judge for yourself. I use the foam ones as I find that they keep the holes clean and are fairly easy to remove in one piece. Whichever you use, try to remove them from the edge rather than from the middle to prevent ripping them apart or pushing them deeper (a nail works well to lever them out).

If you use disposable plugs, keep in mind that they can fall out or get pushed deeper into the hole over time, so they work best overnight or for just a couple of days.

When to replace studs

A road stud in good shape (left)
compared to one that is worn out (right)

Studs last a very long time; most of the studs that are pictured here are almost ten years old and many riders have studs in their boxes that have been around for far longer. If you take care of them and don't use them daily or on hard, abrasive ground, they should last you a long time.

If your studs have a sharp tip, that's the part that is most likely to wear out first. Alternately, using improper tools, like vise grips, can ruin the edges of your studs and make them difficult to grab onto with a wrench, requiring the studs to be replaced. The threads are usually well-protected by the shoe and aren't likely to wear out very quickly unless they're allowed to rust. A quick visual examination after each use should be enough to tell you what sort of shape your studs are in because there isn't much else to watch out for.

Estimating the Wait Time Before You Will Compete

One of the most difficult parts of the show day to plan can be the timing of your classes. The phrase "hurry up and wait" is used often, especially in hunterland, to describe the rush to get to the ring on time followed by a long wait because the ring has run more slowly than expected! While it's very difficult to get the timing perfectly right for something with so many variables, it is possible to calculate an estimate of how many minutes you have before your round.

Hunters

For a regular hunter or hunt seat equitation round, you're looking at about two minutes per round from the moment the horse steps through the in-gate through to it leaving the ring. Because horses can enter the ring one after another with no delay, the waits for these classes can simply be calculated by multiplying the number of rounds by two minutes.

You can ask the in-gate person how many horses or trips there will be before yours. It's very important to find out whether the in-gate is using horses or trips, because "horses" includes every round that a horse will be doing as a single set, while "trips" counts every round separately. If the in-gate person gives you the number in horses, you'll need to figure out how many trips each horse will be doing (an open-card schooling, if it is being offered, as well as two or three over fences courses for the division is quite standard).

If the number is in horses: # horses x # trips/horse x 2 minutes/trip = # minutes

If the number is in trips: # trips x 2 minutes/trip = # minutes

To calculate the estimated time if there are multiple divisions running prior to yours, you'll need to also factor in the time for any flat classes, jogs and course changes. Flat or under saddle classes usually take about ten to fifteen minutes each. Course changes can be done very quickly if they're completed while the under saddle class is waiting to be called to order or during the jog. Jogs can usually be done quickly, in the range of five to ten minutes.

For derbies or classics, each horse will probably take slightly longer to complete the course, so the time might increase to two and a half or three minutes per horse.

Jumpers

Jumpers are more complicated because each class can take more or less time depending on how it's being judged (Table A with jump-off vs. speed vs. power and speed) as well as the length of the course, size of the ring, etc.

I usually estimate a regular jumper class with immediate jump-off to take about three minutes per horse. That takes into account the initial 45 second tour of the ring, the 70 to 80 second initial round and then a partial jump-off (because not every horse will move on to the jump-off).

A regular speed class (either Table A or Table C) might take closer to two or two and a half minutes per horse because there is no jump-off and the rounds themselves take less time.

Derbies will take longer, say three or four minutes per horse depending on the length of the course. Classes in which the jump-off is delayed, such as a grand prix, will run around the two to two and a half minute mark for the initial rounds, with another couple of minutes per jump-off after that.

The easiest part of estimating jumper times is that the number of horses and number of trips is the same, so there can be no confusion there! It's simply a matter of multiplying the estimated time per horse by the number of horses.

When estimating a time over multiple jumper classes, you'll have to take into account any course changes and walks. You'll be able to tell based on the course diagrams whether any jumps need to be moved, which will take much longer than a simple change of height and/or numbers. A quick course change can take about five to ten minutes, while a long one can drag on for half an hour or more! Course walks are usually kept to no more than fifteen minutes after the course has been set and opened.

In both rings, you should get an idea of how the day will run as the show goes on. Some shows will take longer because they have bigger rings, have slow course changes or because they allow the ring to sit empty, while others will pre-load the ring (have the next horse enter while the current horse is just finishing its course) and not allow competitors to hold the ring up for ages. It's always better to err on the side of being early because you can be eliminated for being more than a few minutes late, so "hurry up and wait" will unfortunately still apply for those shows that tend to drag on.

Tape on Jumper Warm-Up Standards

Have you ever wondered what those two lines of tape are doing on the jumper ring schooling standards at some horse shows?

Those lines are measured and taped by the show steward to make it easier for both riders and stewards to ensure that the height-related rules are being followed.

The lower line is put at 1.30m (4'3") and the higher line is at 1.60m (5'3"). For many, these heights will never be jumped in the warm-up ring anyway, but certain tape-related rules might still apply and the tape can help you keep track of how high you're jumping.

While the Canadian and American jumper warm-up rules do differ slightly, they are the same with regard to the tape with one exception. The Canadian rules do not allow riders to jump more than 10cm higher than the height of the competition currently taking place in the show ring. This means that if the class is running at 1.20m, the warm-up jump is only allowed to be adjusted up to the point where the top of the highest rail is even with the lower tape. Even for lower classes, knowing that the tape is at 1.30m can make it easier to estimate the height of any jump that is set.

The role of the higher tape is to set a limit for how high the horses are permitted to jump in the warm-up ring. Rails may not exceed the height of that top tape (1.60m) for any competition.

The lower tape helps to enforce the rule stating that a minimum of two rails must be used on the take-off side for any jump at 1.30m or higher, with the lower rail always staying below 1.30m. This is a way to avoid overly airy fences that would be unfair to the horse.

In addition, trot/canter/placement poles can only be used when the jump is set at 1.30m or lower (therefore the top of the highest rail mustn't be higher than the bottom tape when using any rails on the ground except for ground lines within 1.0m of the fence).

The tape-related rule most likely to affect those jumping the lower heights is that the cups used to build a cross-rail may not exceed 1.30m. Because the middle of a cross-rail where it is jumped is much lower than the height of the cups, it's quite easy to approach the height of the tape when raising an X to anything more than a relatively low height.

For full warm-up rules, you can check the individual rule books:

EC rules

USEF rules

Fitting Open-Front Boots

Your horse's boots might not strike you as a very complicated piece of tack, and because of that their fit is often overlooked. We use boots to protect the horse's legs, but using them improperly can result in damage from the boots themselves, injuries from areas not covered by the ill-fitting boot or discomfort for the horse.

I have written previously about the different types of open-front boots (see post here) and this post will outline how to fit a pair of boots as well as the common mistakes that riders make when putting them on.

A correctly-fitted boot should be just shorter than the length of the horse's leg from the bottom of the knee to the bottom of the fetlock. The boot should cup the fetlock (if you are using a moulded plastic boot, ensuring that the fetlock area fits is especially important to prevent rubs), fit snugly up the cannon bone and then finish below the bony projections at the side of the knee. This keeps the boot from rubbing against the knee while at the same time giving the knee room to bend, which you'll need over the jumps!

The straps should be tightened so that they are just snug. You should still be able to squeeze a finger between the strap and the boot (your horse's leg will change shape slightly during each movement so you want to allow some give, and also let the blood circulate through the skin).

This is how a front boot should fit:

This is an example of the same boot (therefore the correct size for this horse) placed too high on the leg (unfortunately the knee and fetlock are not very clear because the legs are black):

This photo illustrates why there should be room left at the top behind the knee. Even with the cut-out section at the back, the boot pinches the skin at the back of the knee when it's partially bent:

Short open-front back boots are easier to fit since the length isn't a problem, but fastening the straps so close to a joint can be tricky because it's more difficult to hold the boot together with one hand while you do up the straps with the other. For that reason, the easiest way to put on a pair of back boots is by fastening them first over the cannon bone (loosely) and then sliding them down into place. 

You'll get a feel for how tightly to fasten the boots after a few tries. Because you aren't fastening the boots in their proper location, it's extremely important to check the final tightness every time you apply them because it's very easy with this method to over-tighten a boot by making it snug around the cannon bone. Always slide the boot in the direction of the hair growth; there's no need to slide them upwards before taking them off.

Common Mistakes

• Boots that are too big: If the boot is so long that it runs up into the knee and extends past the bottom of the fetlock, it is simply too big and you need to try a different size or brand of boot. Nothing you do will make it fit properly.
• Straps that are too tight: I see this more with boots that use buckle or stud closures because sometimes they need to be overtightened to reach a hole, which is one of the reasons why my personal preference is for velcro closures. Velcro can, however, also be over-tightened. If an indent is left on the leg after you remove the boot, or if you cannot squeeze your little finger under the strap, it's too tight. Open-front boots shouldn't need to be over-tightened to prevent them from slipping down the leg because the shape of the leg should prevent the boot from slipping if the straps are comfortably snug.
• Boots placed too high: As seen above, boots that are too high can rub and prevent the knee from bending without pinching. Some boots might slide into place during the ride while others might stay too high, depending the the particular boot, leg and tightness of straps.
• Boots placed too low: Putting the boots too low on the leg leaves the back of the leg with less protection from the back hooves and runs the risk of rubbing the fetlock if the narrow part of the boot meant for the cannon bone is placed there. The straps can also lie over the fetlock joint if they are too low. 
• Boots falling off: This can be a problem with velcro boots on horses that have a lot of knee action. An easy solution if you wish to continue using velcro fastenings is to apply a layer of Vetrap around the boot over the closed velcro. Use Vetrap that matches the colour of the boot and wrap it no tighter than the fastenings on the boot; it can even be a bit looser because it is just there to keep the two sides of velcro from separating to the point of fully detaching.

Natural Obstacles: The Grob

The grob, also known in some areas as the Devil's Dyke, is not as common in show rings as the bank, liverpool or open water, but it is still a fairly frequent obstacle in certain derbies. When it is present, it often makes a big impact on the outcome of the class.

A grob is dug into the ground so that each half slopes downward to meet in the middle at the deepest point. It is usually the width of the rails used for the jumps, so it can be relatively narrow and some horses don't enjoy the feeling of being funnelled down into such a restrictive, low area. For this reason it can be an especially spooky jump.

At its most difficult, the grob is a triple combination with one or two strides between each jump, depending on the length of the particular grob. It's more difficult at one stride because there's no room for error if the horse backs off on the way in. The course designer can also choose to only place a single jump in the center of the grob for the easiest set-up so that there's no striding to worry about.

There is usually a dry ditch or liverpool located at the bottom of the grob, under the middle jump. This can make the horse back off the combination even more.

Most grobs are dug straight, but some, including the one I am showing in this photo (with no jumps set up in it), are curved.

Due to the nature of the obstacle, a refusal at the second or third obstacle in the combination will require the horse to circle and retake the jump using only the space between that jump and the previous jump. Because the sides rise up as the horse goes down into the grob, there is no way for the horse to exit out the side to retake the combination as a whole.

Foolproof Jumper Braids

In this post I will describe how I create my foolproof jumper braids. They aren't necessarily the easiest or fastest braids, but they look consistently good, they stay put and they work on almost any mane (aside from a natural one, of course). I have used these braids in both the jumper ring and the dressage ring and have gotten many compliments in both, and they easily survive several classes per day and/or being left in overnight.

I braid with yarn rather than elastics because the yarn stays in better and creates prettier braids by helping to keep the braids as close to the neck as possible rather than having them stick out sideways.

The number of braids that you should do depends on your personal preference and on your horse's particular mane. Thicker manes usually require more braids to keep them a manageable size, while thin manes can require fewer braids in order to give more bulk and roundness to each individual braid. If your horse's mane is extremely short, you should take smaller sections of hair to keep hair from popping out mid-braid (the further the hair has to move sideways to get into the braid, the shorter that section of hair becomes compared to the middle section).

Before starting, get your supplies ready. You'll need yarn that matches your horse's mane, a spray bottle of water (or Quic Braid if you prefer), a pull-through/rug hook (available at tack shops and at craft stores), scissors, elastics (optional) and a seam ripper for removing the braids afterward.

To measure and cut the yarn, grab the end of a roll in one hand and start wrapping it from that hand around your elbow (on the same arm) and back up to your hand. Keep wrapping until you have about 12 to 15 wraps, depending on the number of braids you plan on doing.  Find where you've grabbed the end of the yarn and cut through all of the wraps at that one point. This should leave you with 12 to 15 pieces of yarn of the same length, about double the length of your lower arm. Hang these in an easily accessible spot, either somewhere around your belt or on your horse's halter.

I recommend starting behind your horse's ears so that the higher braids end up more evenly spaced. If you reach the end and have to do one wide or several narrow braids, the difference in size will be less obvious at the withers where your hands and saddle pad will hide the braids anyway.

Step 1

After spraying the first few inches of mane a few times, grab a section of it (I prefer to simply use the same hand motion every time to get the same amount of hair rather than using a comb) and braid it straight down. Straightness is important at all times because crookedness in the braiding process will result in a crooked braid. You can make the first couple of cross-overs fairly loose if you would like to give your horse some room to stretch and then braid tightly the rest of the way down.

Step 2

About 1/3 of the way from the bottom, grab one piece of yarn while pinching the braid tight with your other hand and fold the yarn in half. Lay it behind or in front of your braid so that the middle of the yarn is against your braid, and continue to braid the rest of the way down, incorporating the two ends of yarn into two sections of hair in the braid. This is the same technique as you use for hunter braids.

Step 3

Braid until you are just above the ends of the hair. Tie off the braid by wrapping the yarn around the braid and tying a knot. If you aren't sure how to tie a braid off, this is an excellent article using a contrasting yarn colour for clarity. If your horse's mane is thick, it can be difficult to get the knot tight enough so for those manes I like to wrap a braiding elastic over the knot (make sure to gently pull the ends of the yarn out of the way).

If a minor imperfection develops in the second half of your braid, as has happened here when my horse shook her head, don't worry about it. That part of the braid will be hidden later on.

I like to braid the entire mane down before moving on to the next step to help me keep an eye on the size and length of my braids.

Step 4

Take your pull-through and insert it down through the braid about 2/3 of the way down. Insert it straight down through the center (it's much easier if you insert it through a gap between cross-overs and that helps to keep the braid straight).

Step 5

With the hook in the open position, put both ends of the yarn inside the loop and then close it. Bring the pull-through back up through the braid so that the yarn ends stick out of the front of the braid and then let the yarn fall out of the pull-through.

Step 6

Gently pull the yarn straight down. Your braid should fold up and finish with the yarn pointing at the ground.

Step 7

Now insert the pull-through straight down through to the back of the braid at the crest, as you would for a hunter braid. Grab the yarn again with your pull-through and bring it back up through the top of the braid.

Step 8 

Gently pull the yarn taut. Your braid should fold up a second time, with the folded bottom of the braid from the previous step ending up at the top of the underside of the braid. You might need to gently guide the folding process with your fingers as you pull.

Step 9

Keep the yarn taut as you bring one piece of yarn around each side of the braid, tying a simple overhand knot under the braid.

Step 10

Now bring one piece of yarn up around each side of the braid and tie another overhand knot on top. I like to use a surgeon's knot at this point, twisting an extra time to make it even more secure.

Step 11

To finish, bring one piece of yarn down around each side of the braid again and tie them together underneath the braid, using two overhand knots to make sure it won't budge. Again, I like to use a surgeon's knot at this point. All of these passes above and below the braid serve to make the braid round and to corral any loose hairs into the braid.

Step 12

Grab the two yarn ends and pull them out to the side or bottom of the braid so that you can cut them with the scissors without cutting the braid itself. There should be enough stretch in the yarn that they should disappear back under the braid when you let go of the cut ends. 

Repeat the same steps for the rest of your braids until the entire neck is done.

To remove the braids, you'll need to cut through your final knot underneath the braid and then you might also need to cut your wrap knot from the initial braiding down.

Natural Obstacles

Today's post is about some of the more common natural obstacles that you might find in the jumper ring. It is just a sampling of the natural obstacles that you are most likely to see in North American rings and is in no way comprehensive.

Natural obstacles, with the exception of the liverpool and the water jump, tend to be used more in derby or speed classes. The course designer can still use them in other classes, though, so it's a good idea to become acquainted with them.

Sometimes natural obstacles can be placed between hedges or other natural settings. These can serve to make the jump slightly more spooky for some horses because they darken the area around the jump.

We'll start with the liverpool:

The liverpool consists of a jump placed over either a permanent in-ground or moveable above-ground water tray. The entire width of the jump mustn't be more than 2 m wide, including the water portion. The water tray for most liverpools is rectangular, in various sizes, but round versions are also available.

The water may be placed directly underneath the jump, or in front of/behind it. If it is placed in front or behind, there mustn't be a gap between the end of the tray and the vertical plane of the front of the jump. A liverpool cannot stick out more than 1 m in front of an oxer. Changing the placement of the liverpool serves basically to alter the ground line of the jump.


Moving on from the liverpool, we have the open water:

The water jump is wider than the liverpool, being more than 2 m wide. It also must be dug into the ground. The traditional water jump, as shown above, has a small obstacle at the front of the jump (between 40 and 50 cm high), which does not count towards penalties. With an open water jump, the horse must pass to the inside of all the flags in order not to have a disobedience, and the horse must not land in the water or touch the (usually) white lath at the back of the jump with any foot or shoe. The open water is not typically seen in lower-level jumper classes in North America.

There is another version of the water jump that is more inviting and requires no extra judge on the ground, and it is therefore seen more often at levels where water jumps are introduced:

This type has a vertical set over the water, no further back than 2 m from the front of the obstacle. The lath can still be used as a visual aid, but the obstacle is judged as a vertical and therefore faults are only added for a disobedience or for knocking down the rail. The difference between a vertical over water and a liverpool is that the water jump is wider, can only be a vertical, and still incorporates the take-off element of the open water.


A jump that is slightly similar to the liverpool is the dry ditch:

The dry ditch is essentially a shallow wood-lined ditch filled with stones. This creates a visual element but almost no actual depth. The jump over top can be a vertical or an oxer.


A completely different type of obstacle is the table top bank:

This obstacle can take a variety of shapes but is almost always rectangular with a flat top and revetted sides. One or more of the sides may occasionally be sloped rather than upright, or it may be set against the side of the ring so that only two or three sides can be jumped.

The course designer can use flags to indicate where the horse should jump on and/or off the table top, or there may be jumps set against one or more of the sides. If there are no jumps used, only disobediences can incur faults at the table top. If only one jump or set of flags is used, the rider can decide which side to approach or leave the obstacle from to save time, depending on how it is set up.


The bank is a related obstacle:

Unlike the table top, the bank requires the horse to climb up and down the taller, sloped sides. It can take a variety of shapes and sizes, and it can be used in a variety of ways. If no jumps are used, the course designer can place one or two sets of flags on the bank to indicate where the horse must go. As long as the horse passes between the flags (white on the left, red on the right) without any disobediences, no penalties are given. If only one set of flags is used, the horse can turn as tightly around the inside flag as is desired before heading back down the bank.

The bank may also be used with a jump on top:

In such a case, flags on the ground aren't usually required because the jump itself requires the horse to travel all the way up the bank. This obstacle is judged like any other, with faults for a knock down and for any disobediences along the way. The jump is usually a bit smaller than others on course to compensate for any loss of impulsion from the bank or limited space to set up for the jump.

The bank can also be used to make a jump at ground level more difficult:

In this example, the horse must travel up the bank and pass between the flags before coming back down the bank and jumping the vertical, with only a few strides in between. This tests the rider's ability to focus and balance the horse, and may offer a variety of routes to choose from, from the difficult and direct route to the safer but longer one. Jumps can also be built heading toward the bank, but in such a case the bank would serve more as a distraction or attempt to back the horse off.

To learn about another natural obstacle, the grob or devil's dyke, see Natural Obstacles: The Grob.