Why Hunters and Jumpers Don't Have Ride Times

There is one question that is bound to come up any time a horse show runs late or after a particularly long episode of "hurry up and wait". That question is "Why don't hunter/jumper shows have ride times?". The concept works well in the dressage and eventing worlds, so why not in the hunter and jumper rings as well?

It turns out that it isn't simply the hunter/jumper world being stubborn or show organizers wanting to torture the competitors; there are fundamental differences between the disciplines that make it very difficult to assign accurate times in most cases.

Adds/scratches

One of the biggest reasons why ride times are so difficult to use in the hunter/jumper world is because we have the ability to add or scratch classes, with no limit (aside from monetary penalties) until the class is over. This structure allows a horse to be moved up or down in height depending on how things are going that week or even on that day, with no guesswork as to what the horse might be ready for weeks in the future. It allows trainers to enter the horse in as many or as few classes as are needed to get the best out of the horse on that day.

In the dressage and eventing worlds, you need to declare which classes you'll be entering at least one or two weeks before the actual show date. This is not a big deal because a horse will usually be aimed at one particular level throughout the season, or there might be a plan to upgrade at a particular event known to be on the easier side. In the jumper world in particular, moving up is done when the horse or rider is felt to be ready for it, and factors such as course design can come into play to determine the timing, which is difficult to know in advance. Given that it takes several days to draw up ride times, classes would have to be entered at least a week in advance and without the knowledge of how confident the horse or rider will be feeling that particular week.

In the hunter ring, if the trainer feels that a horse is spooky in the show ring, they currently have the ability to enter the horse in any additional classes that it is eligible for in order to get more ring time. If declarations had to be made far in advance, guesses would have to be made about the number of classes needed and a horse might end up too tired or too spooky to perform well in its main division.

Number of rings

Another aspect that makes many hunter/jumper shows very different from the other disciplines is the number of rings running at one time. Hunters and jumpers are very popular, and that means that there is a huge number of horses showing each day, split into multiple rings. With multiple rings come trainer conflicts.

Trainer conflicts occur when a trainer has to be in two or more places at once to warm up multiple riders, and/or to ride multiple horses. Not every barn is large enough to warrant having assistant trainers who can take over at other rings, which means that a ring with lower priority will have to wait on the ring with higher priority. Even if the show staff were able to arrange the ride times in such a way as to avoid trainer conflicts, all it would take would be one accident or one longer-than-planned course change to throw everything off between the different rings.

Events and dressage shows often do run multiple rings at once, but there are usually fewer rings still and the warm-up strategies are different. At a dressage show, a coach can warm up two riders for different classes at the same time because the necessary warm-up area is the same and the coach can simply tell the riders to do different movements. At a hunter/jumper show, two riders competing in two different classes are likely competing at different heights and each particular horse might do best with a different series of warm-up jumps. Without ride times, the trainer can group together those horses that can warm up together while keeping the others separate. At an event, the above dressage warm up applies similarly to the dressage phase, but the jumping warm-ups also tend to have jumps at fixed heights and widths shared by all with no trainer required to save one or to make adjustments. It also isn't likely that there would be two stadium rings or two cross-country courses running at once, which limits the potential for conflicts between divisions.

Jump-offs

In the jumper ring, the time per horse changes depending on whether the horse qualifies for the jump-off. Immediate jump-offs are easier on the horse and its connections by allowing for just one warm-up and no hanging around and waiting for the other horses to go. When it comes to timing, however, the immediate jump-off presents a problem because it isn't known in advance who will require those extra two minutes at the end of their round. If the show organizers were to add extra time to every ride to account for the jump-off, the day would run into the dark or horses would have to be turned away due to a lack of time. Another ring could be added to take the overflow, which would contribute even more to the trainer conflicts. Adding a smaller amount of extra time to every round to account for the occasional jump-off would make the actual ride times inaccurate and defeat the purpose of having anything more than a division start time and a posted order.

Again, this isn't a problem for the other disciplines because eventers don't have jump-offs, making everyone's round take a similar amount of time.

When ride times can work

At invitationals or shows that require qualification, the number of entries per class is known well in advance, making it possible to accurately time the schedule. These shows often only have one show ring or one main ring catering to a particularly large audience, making it possible for that ring to run without delays (if there is an annex ring, it could be prone to long waits due to trainer/rider conflicts if there are to be no delays in the main ring). Also, at these shows, course changes are planned out so carefully that they can be done in a very short and accurately-estimated amount of time. This is thanks to a large jump crew, a good course designer who can set the fence heights and filler in advance, and the knowledge of all that it needs to be done quickly.

What can be done to lessen the waiting around without instituting ride times?

For the vast majority of hunter/jumper shows, instituting ride times is just not realistic unless we want to change the flexible way in which we can currently compete or allow fewer horses to show. That isn't to say that things can't be done to improve the communication and lessen the waiting around. Here's a short list of improvements that shows can make:

• Have a white board at each in-gate with an estimated start time for each division, updated throughout the day to account for course length, course changes and trainer delays
• Post the number of entries per division the day before, even if some entries are expected to be added the day of (this at least makes it possible to calculate a "not-before" time). This is the norm at most 'A' circuit shows but is fairly uncommon at the lower levels
• Use online tools to update competitors on the progress in each ring in real time
• Record the start times of each division for use in estimating division start times at future editions of the same show 
• Keep the in-gates in communication with one another and encourage the trainers to plan their day with the aid of the in-gates

There are six days left to enter the Dream Horse Studios $75 gift certificate giveaway! All you need to enter is your name and your e-mail address; no Facebook account or sync necessary! Consider donating to the Dream Horse Studios Kickstarter campaign while you're at it. Not only are the rewards extremely generous, but each pledge above $10 comes with a 50% off coupon valid on your next purchase at Dream Horse Studios in addition to what's listed on the Kickstarter page.

Dream Horse Studios Giveaway Reminder

Just a reminder that the Dream Horse Studios $75 gift certificate giveaway contest is running until November 6, and you can enter every day until then for additional chances to win by sharing the giveaway or Kickstarter campaign.

I have heard a rumour from a very reliable source that the thank-you note included in the Kickstarter rewards for donations above $10 might include a coupon for a very significant discount on your next purchase from Dream Horse Studios. With their products already at extremely reasonable prices, donating to the Kickstarter campaign could be a way to get yourself a new pair of horse boots, or a bridle, or a halter, etc., at a cost significantly below what you would pay at a tack shop or any online store.

The giveaway post is here

And you can go directly to the Dream Horse Studios Kickstarter campaign here

Giveaway Time, Courtesy of Dream Horse Studios!

This is a very exciting post because it marks our very first giveaway contest on this blog! Read to the end to find out how you can win a $75 gift certificate to spend at Dream Horse Studios just by sharing!

Frequent readers of this blog are probably aware that I don't like to mention brand names. The important thing is to have clean, conservative, well-fitted tack and clothing rather than a particular "stylish" brand. Having said that, there are still some brands that tend to be particularly suitable for showing or that are good to know about for their value and innovation. Today's post involves the latter.

Dream Horse Studios takes a different approach to tack, with a focus on quality, good design and affordable prices, while at the same time offering options for those wanting something that stands out. I've been drooling over their Calypso boots, an outer shell in a choice of conservative colours (patent or leather, it's up to you) with a coloured calfskin lining in your choice of five fun colours to give the appearance of piping when they're worn. Imagine boots with the same colour of lining as the trim on your saddle pad and fly bonnet!

The Calypso boots in patent leather with red lining

If it's a classic look you have in mind, several models are available for you to choose from at prices below what you might expect to pay at a tack shop, and made from English leather, to boot (no pun intended!).

Cambridge leather jumping boots

They also make extremely colourful boots that would be fun for schooling, as well as a variety of other products ranging from beaded halters, belts and dog collars to bridles and decorative browbands.

A rainbow of fleece-lined Carnivale boots

Dream Horse Studios has now taken to Kickstarter to raise funds for an expansion of their product line to include a complete selection of bridles, girths, breastcollars, and more.

Donations start at only $1, and there are fantastic reward packages available. At $50, for example, you will receive a beaded leather bracelet with a custom engraved stainless steel or brass charm. For $100 you can receive a padded leather stable halter in your choice of size and colour; how often can you even purchase a padded leather halter for that without also helping a promising new business? To top that off, for just $25 more, you will receive a raised leather halter in the colour of your choice complete with a custom engraved name plate!

Additional rewards include sets of boots, bridles, show sheets, shipping boots, girths, breastcollars and more! How often does a Kickstarter campaign offer rewards at prices that are similar to what you might pay for something in-store?

Check out the campaign here!

Now to the even more fun part, the giveaway! In exchange for spreading the word about their Kickstarter campaign, Dream Horse Studios would like to offer you a $75 gift certificate, valid on any of their products. All you have to do is share it in one or more ways, and you can share it daily for extra entries! For an additional entry, you can also "like" Dream Horse Studios on Facebook and keep up to date on their goings-on.

We'll be using Rafflecopter for the giveaway. If you aren't familar with it, it's a way of keeping track of your entries and randomly drawing a winner. You can sign in either with your name and e-mail or with your Facebook account. I will only e-mail you if you have won the gift certificate.

Each day, you'll have three options for sharing the Kickstarter campaign, and you can use anywhere from one to all three options every day. "Liking" Dream Horse Studios on Facebook is good for one additional entry to the contest only once during the contest period.

Entries will close at 12:00 a.m. on November 6, 2013, the final day of the Dream Horse Studios Kickstarter campaign. The winner will be revealed on November 7.

Good luck!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

November 7th: Congratulations to the winner of the giveaway, Anne G.!

How to Quickly Set Warm-Up Jumps

Jump-setting might not seem like a very difficult thing to do, but there is an art to doing it quickly. The number of jumps available in warm-up rings is limited, and setting the jumps slowly will slow the ring down while also disrupting the rider's warm-up routine. The last thing most riders want is to have to pull up or circle across others' jumps because their own jump wasn't set in time.

Learning how to set jumps quickly will not only make you a better ground person in general, but if you're interested, it will also give you a better chance of becoming a show groom if you prefer the horse show side of things to mucking out stalls. Many riders won't allow their grooms to set in the warm-up ring until they've displayed the ability to set jumps quickly at home. Coming to the job with that ability will give you a step up from the start.

Different riders and trainers have different preferences for the spacing of rails and ground lines and many variations can be made with those four rails and four standards that you have available. For that reason, I won't mention too much about when to move out/in ground lines or how to space the bottom rail(s).

The key to setting jumps quickly is to be efficient; if you minimize the number of steps to do or distance that you need to cover, you will be faster. It is much easier to set quickly with two people so that one can stay on each end of the jump without crossing back and forth and any changes in height or width can be made in unison to lessen the chances of rails accidentally falling. You're never guaranteed to have a partner, though, so this post will explain how to set jumps when you're alone. The same concepts apply, just with a few more steps and walking.

Initial setting

When you initially set up a jump, aim to get the height right immediately. With practice, you should be able to put the cups at a good starting height on all the standards so that any adjustments are within a hole. You can measure the jump against part of your body or simply remember how far down to reach your hand, whatever works best for you. If the standards all have similar markings or screw holes, those can be used to make the height even, too.

Most riders or trainers have a preference for what type of jump to start with, so you can go ahead and set the usual first jump before you've had a chance to ask what they'd like. Any changes from it are likely to be minor and setting the jump as soon as you get to it will allow the rider to begin their warm-up sooner.

If you're setting up the jump from scratch, first lay the jump rails on the ground where they will be positioned (just start with one for a vertical or two for an oxer). This will give you the spacing for the standards. Add the standards and then set the rails on the cups. Make your final height adjustments and then add in your ground lines and any rails below the top rail.

If I'm setting an oxer initially, I find it easiest to judge the squareness by using just the cups without rails. The roundness of the rails can throw off your sense of crouching level with the height, whereas the edges of the cups can give you good points to judge by. You can't accurately judge the squareness of an oxer without getting your eyes level with the rails or cups.

Once your first jump is set up, the variations will include changes in height, changes in width (for oxers), and changes from an oxer to a vertical or vice versa. Combinations can also be used in the warm-up ring at many shows, but those aren't used very frequently.

Changes in height

Changes in height are usually asked for by the rider or trainer calling, for example, "Up two", "Down two", "Up two behind" or "Down two in front". For a change that is specified as front or back, only change the side specified (it will be to either make a rampy oxer square or to make a square oxer rampy). Front is the side with the ground rail, or the side that the rider just jumped from or is in a position to jump from if there are ground rails on both sides. Just specifying the number of holes when you're setting an oxer usually means that the change should be made all around.

It's very important to keep track of which hole the jump was set at when you change the height. If you remove the pin or cup and the pole sinks down or bounces up, you won't have a reference to count from. For this reason, you should keep one hand under the rail as you remove the cup/pin with just enough force to keep the rail level (this can take practice). You can count holes with your fingers or your eyes depending on your personal preferences, as long as you're consistent. Ending up with an uneven jump for no good reason after a height change is frustrating to the rider warming up.

Be careful when making changes of more than two or three holes at once because the rail could slip off the upper cup if it's on too much of an angle since the distance between the cups will be greater. Having the rail fall on your foot or arm when this happens can be very painful!

Changes in width

The most common mistake I see with oxers being widened occurs when the changes are made in big steps rather than small ones. If you think about it, when you pull one standard out further than the other, you're making the distance between those standards greater. The rail will slide closer to the edge of the cup and if it slides too far, it will fall off and hit you or the ground. Having to reset the rail not only takes longer, but that heavy rail can cause a lot of damage to your body if you end up too close to it.

For that reason, if you're alone, you should make changes in width gradually, about six inches at a time, alternating sides. It takes a bit longer than doing each side in one shot, but it's safer and faster than having to reset a fallen rail. Make sure that you don't pull the standard towards the outside as you move it over or you'll make the distance even greater; the straighter you can keep the standard, the better.

Also, check that the rail is snug in the cups before moving the standards. If the rail is on the edge of the cup to begin with, it's almost guaranteed to fall when you widen the jump.

Small increments keep the rail in the cups

Larger increments bring the rail to the edge of the cups

It's also important not to make big changes in height and width at the same time because having the rail on an angle in two directions at once would exacerbate the problem.

If you have a ground line on each side of the oxer and need to widen it, first roll the ground line out on the side you're moving. Trying to push against a ground line is hard work and is likely to result in an angled standard and a fallen rail. It's much easier to roll the ground line out first and then roll it back into place after you've finished.

If you're ever asked for a skinny oxer, this usually means an oxer with the smallest width you can create. This is done by bringing the standards in with the feet beside one another but still resting on the ground, like this:

All of the same tips apply to lessening the width of an oxer as they do to widening one.

Oxer to vertical

Changing an oxer to a vertical is very easy; all you need to do is drop the back rail to the ground, swing the standards out of the way and then adjust the ground line on each side.

The reason for swinging the empty standards out is for safety and to make it easier to roll the ground line out without interference. If the horse drifts over the jump, leaving the standards in place could result in an injury to horse or rider from the cups or the standards themselves. Simply pivoting them away on the foot closest to the standard beside brings them out of the way and makes it easy to pivot them back into place for another oxer.

Vertical to oxer

Changing a vertical to an oxer is more complicated because it's more about building than about disassembling.

First, pivot your empty standards back into place and at your desired width. If the jump height has changed, try to make your height change now while there's no weight in the cups.

Next, take the ground line from what will be the back side of your oxer and put it in those cups.

Finally, double-check the height and roll the ground line in on the front side as far as desired.

Ground lines

Whenever you're rolling ground lines in or out, roll them from the center of the rail. If you try to roll them from the ends, the rail will roll on an angle and will require fixing. Nudging it with your foot as you walk past the center of the jump will make it roll out straight and takes very little time.

Whether you're grooming, simply helping a friend or setting jumps for yourself at home, learning how to set efficiently will make the process much easier on everyone and is a good skill to have and can help to avoid injuries on the ground that could interfere with your riding time! 

FAQ, Part 11

Are red jackets appropriate attire for the jumper ring?

The answer depends on what colour the national team jacket is in your country. If the team wears red, it's a faux-pas to wear the same colour that those team members have worked so hard to earn. The same applies for non-red team jacket colours in other countries as well, though some countries use common jacket colours that are distinguished by coloured collars or patches.

Brightly-coloured show jackets are becoming more and more popular in the jumper ring, making colours like red more widely available than they used to be. As a result, you will occasionally see a rider wearing the same colour as the national team, but while it is not against the rules in every country, it is still frowned upon by most. Check the rules of your national federation before you go out shopping, and do your best to avoid the same colour combination as your national team (both jacket and collar) even if it isn't explicitly written in the rule book.

How can I keep the cheeks on my hackamore bridle from going into my horse's eyes?

This is a common problem with hackamores, exacerbated by the curb action that can swing a seemingly well-fitted bridle towards the eyes.

If your hackamore is adjustable, you can try making it wider so that the cheek pieces attach further away from the bridge of the nose, bringing them slightly away from the eyes as well.

If your hackamore is a fixed size, the trick is to tie the cheek pieces away from the eyes by adding a string or strap to the bridle. Simply tie a piece of conservatively-coloured string (number string works well, or anything else like a shoe lace that isn't likely to rub) from about halfway up one cheekpiece, under the jaw and up around to the other cheekpiece. Make it tight enough to keep the cheekpieces out of the eyes, but not so tight that it will rub or restrict the horse in any way. A leather strap of an appropriate length could also be used to the same purpose (spur straps, a shortened bradoon hanger, etc.).

If you do a Google image search for Russel Skelton Royal Fair, a couple of examples will pop up showing what the set-up should look like.

Why aren't hunter score sheets made public?

Quite simply, most people would not understand them if they were. Unlike dressage with its single score sheet per horse and myriad comments, a hunter class is scored with only one line of symbols and notes per horse, necessitating the use of symbols that each judge finds fastest and easiest to use, and which can vary from judge to judge. Because hunter judges don't have scribes, this system allows the judge to keep as much focus on the horse as possible with minimal writing and no delays between rounds for writing comments, as well as the ability to compare rounds quickly without flipping pages.

Any comments are usually more for the judge to remember the round for comparing scoring than to comment on every aspect of it, while the more obvious symbols such as the shape of each jump should have been felt and seen by the rider and coach, anyway.

Which type of hair net is the correct choice for the hunter ring?

There are three categories of hair net marketed for riding: traditional two-knot hair nets, one-knot hair nets, and no-knot hair nets. The two-knot hair nets can be uncomfortable because of the multiple knots, but this also keeps them tighter and less baggy than the more comfortable one-knot type (no pressure points if the knot is put in the back but the hair net can puff outwards if not tucked in). No-knot hair nets are like bands, open at the top of the head.

Because only the edge of the hair net will ever show under your helmet anyway, there is no one correct choice. Choose the option that is most comfortable for you while still allowing you to keep your hair neatly contained.

What should I do if the zipper on my boot breaks?

If your federation's rules allow you to compete in your schooling paddock boots and half chaps, you can switch to those if you are able to clean and polish them to show ring standards.

If you don't have a back-up set of boots with you, you can use electrical or duct tape (preferably black) wrapped around the boot to keep it closed. Zippers tend to break at the worst possible times, so black tape is a good thing to have in your tack box just in case. Try to have the zipper repaired as soon as you can, but everyone is likely to be understanding of inconspicuous tape in the meantime because it has happened to so many.

Tried, It's True! #2

This is the second instalment of "Tried, It's True!", a series about situations that have actually been witnessed at horse shows that are very dangerous, bad ideas. These mistakes come from people who mean well but have had horse show stress take over their brains or have simply never thought about the potential consequences. These posts aim to warn others who might make the same mistakes.

A couple of weeks ago, I came across some photos on Facebook that someone had posted from a recent horse show. In several of them, her horse could be seen tied to the trailer with the chain over its nose!

A horse should never, under any circumstances, be tied with the chain over the nose (or under the chin, for the matter). The further down the nose you go, the more sensitive the facial structures become. A chain that slips down (it can slip down with the noseband even if it's wrapped around) can easily reach the more sensitive structures and cause a lot of damage should the horse pull back on the chain. Even higher up on the nose, the full weight of the horse against the chain would likely have very bad results.

I am not against using a lead chain over the nose for leading; I use one on my own horse at shows just in case the atmosphere gets a bit too exciting. One downside to the chain is that when you need to apply pressure, it can tighten against the nose and not release on its own. When there is a human at the other end of the chain, this pressure can quickly be released by hand and the maximum weight that the horse can pull back against is that of the human, approximately 10-20% of the horse's own weight. There is a risk that the horse could get loose and step on the lead, but that is a small risk that can be weighed against the benefits of the extra insurance that the chain provides.

When you tie with the chain, however, the force when pulling back can be up to 100% of the horse's weight, a big difference to those sensitive parts of the face! There is also no one to release pressure when the chain tightens, meaning that the horse can be punished for extended periods simply for standing still.

If your horse does not tie well, the answer is not to tie it to the trailer! Such a horse probably shouldn't be tied at all without a wall behind it, especially not to an object that could possibly be tipped or dragged. A chain would likely just make the horse panic more in addition to damaging the nose if the horse were to pull back. On a fairly cool day, you could keep the horse tied on the trailer (always with a bar or wall behind), or in warmer weather rent a day stall or simply hold the horse for a few hours.

Some things are just not worth risking your horse's well-being for, and tying your horse to anything with the lead chain over the nose is one of those things. Some people might get away with it some of the time, but when it goes wrong, it will go very wrong.

Have you witnessed a dangerous situation related to showing that you would like others to be warned against doing? You can leave a comment on the blog, tell me on Facebook or send me an e-mail at showringreadyblog@gmail.com.

Studs 101

Disclaimer:  If you have never used screw-in studs (aka caulks, aka corks) before, and even if you have, they should be employed under the guidance of your farrier and/or trainer. Adding studs to your horse's shoes will change the way that the feet move across the ground, making it very important not to over-stud, and it's possible to damage a shoe or your horse's foot by putting them in improperly. For these reasons, I strongly recommend that you use this post only as a reference while getting hands-on help from a horse person who you trust.

Your stud kit

Some tack shops sell ready-made stud kits, which can be convenient but could make it difficult for you to grow your stud collection or store additional tools. It isn't difficult to assemble your own kit.

A stud kit

For your stud kit, you will first need a box in which to store everything. It's best to keep everything together so that you don't end up missing a vital component when you're away from home. Plastic tackle boxes work extremely well for stud kits; they come in a variety of sizes, often with removable dividers that will allow you to keep the studs grouped appropriately.

A stud hole cleaner

Next, you will need a stud hole cleaner. Some riders prefer to just use a horse shoe nail to clean the holes, but I appreciate having the wire brush as well to make the holes even cleaner. They are very inexpensive and are available at most tack shops.

A T-tap (left) and a hardware store
tap (right) with homemade handle

You will also need a tap. They come in a variety of shapes, from the traditional t-tap to the more modern safety taps. You can even purchase taps from hardware stores, in which case you'll need to bring along a stud or tack store tap to check for the correct size with the store's thread checker. I have found that these taps are much sharper/more effective, but for that reason might not be ideal for someone starting out who might cross-thread more often. You'll also need to purchase or create a handle for a hardware store tap (which allows just the tap section to be replaced when it wears out).

Next on the list is at least one wrench. Adjustable wrenches work well if you have studs of different widths, or you can just keep a plain wrench on hand of each size that you need so that there's no need to fiddle. Do not use vise grips as these will strip the edges from your studs and eventually give you nothing to grab onto to get them out of the shoes!

Another item that you should keep on hand is some sort of oil or specially-formulated stud soap to keep the studs in good shape. I just use WD-40.

Your horse will need to be shod, preferably in steel as opposed to softer aluminum shoes that will not maintain their threads as well. You will need to ask your farrier to drill holes for the studs in the shoes before they're put on your horse's feet (there is usually an extra charge for this).

Last but not least, you'll need the studs themselves, available from most tack shops. You'll want to start with enough of each type/size that you think you might need for either two or all four shoes, as well as a couple of extras for when those get lost (with studs, it's always a "when" and not an "if").

There are some extra items that you can purchase, such as a magnetic stud dish or arm band to lessen the chances of dropping/losing a stud, but the basics that I listed above should get you by easily.

Choosing studs

Studs can be roughly divided into four categories, depending on their shape and size, although there is a lot of overlap between categories. Most horses will not need a wide variety of studs as the larger ones are typically used for extreme footing/terrain or horses that really need that extra grip for the bigger jumps. Your coach or farrier should be able to suggest the best types for your horse and the particular footing that you expect to contend with.

Usually the studs on the front shoes will be smaller than on the back to minimize injury, both to the horse's stomach and to the legs (a belly pad girth will help to protect the stomach from front studs). The hind end requires the most traction anyway and there is less potential for injury when using bigger studs there, though a horse can still puncture itself by stepping on one hind foot with the other. You can use different studs of similar height on the same foot if you want to have something sharper on the outside, but it's necessary to try to keep the forces on the foot as even as possible when doing so.

Road studs

These are only a few millimetres high and give just a small amount of traction. Because they are small, they don't change the horse's way of going very much and are less likely than other types to cause injury. They are often used for the front shoes when nothing bigger is required.

Grass tips

Grass tips are narrow, pointy studs that can bite into fairly hard ground. Because they are so sharp, they are risky to use on the inside branch of the horse shoe where the horse might accidentally step on itself.

Bullets

Bullets are a good general-purpose stud because they are fairly pointy, enabling them to grab into the footing, while having enough surface area that they can provide some traction in deep or wet footing. They also come in many different heights to suit a variety of purposes.


Blocks

Blocks are fairly blunt, square-ish studs intended to provide a lot of surface area for the horse to push against in soft or muddy footing. They're less likely to draw blood if a horse missteps than the sharper options but they don't have the same ability to sink into and grab more solid footing. They may or may not have a small tip.

Inserting studs

The first thing you'll need to do is clean the holes. If possible, have the horse on clean, hard ground so that you won't lose all of your hard work if the horse pulls its foot away from you. Otherwise, you'll need to go through every step one foot at a time without putting the foot down in order to keep the holes clean.

With the nail end of your stud hole cleaner, loosen up the dirt in each stud hole, flinging as much out of the hole as you can. Once that's done, turn the tool around and twist the wire brush into the hole. Give it a turn or two at the bottom and then twist it out again. If there is any large debris left in the hole (a small piece of gravel, etc.), keep cleaning until you get it out.

Next, you'll need to use your tap. If you use studs frequently it might not be necessary to tap every time, but you aren't likely to be able to avoid it otherwise. The tap will clean up the threads of the stud hole, which can get damaged by dirt and other debris, while also clearing out any dirt that the wire brush missed. Insert the tap so that it is in line with the hole, never at an angle, and gently allow the threads to catch. Don't force it or you risk cross-threading and potentially ruining the hole. Turn the tap just until you encounter resistance; go any further and you risk hurting your horse's hoof.

It's extremely important not to allow the horse to put its foot down while the tap is screwed in (even safety taps could potentially bend slightly in such a case). Not only could the tap get jammed up into the hoof, but it could also damage the stud hole enough to get itself stuck or to make it difficult to screw a stud in later. As soon as you feel resistance, unscrew the tap without delay.

At this point, the hole should be ready for a stud. You can clean the holes ahead of time and plug them to make inserting the studs easier later (for example, to allow the horse to trailer without studs or to keep your show clothes clean), or you can immediately insert the studs.

To insert a stud, simply align your chosen stud with the hole and gently screw it in at least one turn by hand. This will keep the stud from falling out of the hole while you fasten the wrench. Attach the wrench and tighten the stud until it's snug (if your hole and stud are clean, there should not be a gap left between the shoe and the base of the stud). If you don't tighten enough, the stud could work its way loose during your ride and come off, while over-tightening can make it difficult to get the studs out again without torquing your horse's foot.

To remove a stud, simply reverse the process: use the wrench to loosen the stud until you can do the final turns by hand to avoid the stud flying off. You will need to clean the studs before the dirt hardens (the wire brush on your stud hole cleaner works well for this, as well as the nail for scraping the corners) and then oil them to keep them from rusting. Some people prefer to use a product such as Stud Suds to immerse their studs in a cleaning/lubricating solution, but I like to just put my clean studs back into their section of the box and give them a spray of WD-40. Close the lid, shake the box gently, and you'll end up with evenly-coated studs without you having to handle them while they're really oily. You can fit a small piece of paper towel to the bottom of each section of studs to absorb any excess oil.

It's important to remove the studs promptly when they're no longer needed to keep the stress on the horse's tendons to a minimum (studs on hard ground change the hoof angle in addition to changing how the hoof moves across the ground), as well as to prevent injuries from the horse stepping on itself.

If you wish to use plugs, there are several options available:

There are screw-in metal blanks that can be inserted and removed with an Allen key, the most expensive option initially and a risk if you lose your Allen key or if they get stuck from a lack of grease.

Foam, rubber and cotton plugs are all disposable and each has its pros and cons. There doesn't seem to be a consensus on which works best so you'll need to judge for yourself. I use the foam ones as I find that they keep the holes clean and are fairly easy to remove in one piece. Whichever you use, try to remove them from the edge rather than from the middle to prevent ripping them apart or pushing them deeper (a nail works well to lever them out).

If you use disposable plugs, keep in mind that they can fall out or get pushed deeper into the hole over time, so they work best overnight or for just a couple of days.

When to replace studs

A road stud in good shape (left)
compared to one that is worn out (right)

Studs last a very long time; most of the studs that are pictured here are almost ten years old and many riders have studs in their boxes that have been around for far longer. If you take care of them and don't use them daily or on hard, abrasive ground, they should last you a long time.

If your studs have a sharp tip, that's the part that is most likely to wear out first. Alternately, using improper tools, like vise grips, can ruin the edges of your studs and make them difficult to grab onto with a wrench, requiring the studs to be replaced. The threads are usually well-protected by the shoe and aren't likely to wear out very quickly unless they're allowed to rust. A quick visual examination after each use should be enough to tell you what sort of shape your studs are in because there isn't much else to watch out for.