Turnout Critique #8

This is our first jumper Turnout Critique. Jumpers are more difficult to critique because so much is allowed that it really comes down to personal taste. I, personally, like a very clean and fairly conservative turnout for jumpers, and this critique will reflect that. As long as your turnout falls within the rules, however, it will not affect the judging of a jumper class. I believe that good turnout still shows respect for the judge and the horse show and I therefore like to make the effort.

The first thing that strikes me is how nice and clean this very cute pony is! The ends of her tail could be a little bit whiter, which usually comes from shampooing the tail frequently well ahead of the horse show, but as far as I can tell without knowing this horse's coat markings and assuming that the orange jump is reflecting off the back legs, especially after looking at all of the photos, I think that this rider has done a good job with her grey horse.

I would like to see the tail brushed out better, starting from the bottom and working all the way up to the top so that it doesn't fall into clumps as we see here. The mane could be pulled and/or shortened to make it neater and less likely to catch the rider's hands during a release. I like to braid jumpers' manes for big classes, but an unbraided mane is perfectly acceptable, and the norm, for a casual class.

Hoof polish would add a nice finish to the turnout, especially in contrast to the light coat.

The bridle appears to be well-fitted to this pony and I like the conservative fly veil. My preference is for a conservative base colour for a fly veil, and then personality can be added through coloured trim if desired. A true white fly veil can make even a clean horse look yellow, so the best colours to use on a grey are usually (depending on the lightness of the grey horse) off-white, grey or black.

I am not a big fan of this patterned saddle pad for showing; I think that a plain white pad or a white pad edged in black, or even a black pad edged in white for a casual class, would look very clean and professional while suiting the overall colour scheme.

The saddle looks like it might benefit from a good conditioning (although it might just be a trick of the light) and I would tuck the excess stirrup leather under the saddle flap so that it isn't flying around. As I've mentioned in previous posts, it's a good idea to keep an eye on the peacock irons over time as some aren't meant to take the weight of more than a young child. I would prefer to see a girth that is closer in colour to the saddle and bridle.

This rider's helmet is fairly conservative and appropriate for the jumper ring. Her hair appears to be neatly contained in a braid, which is perfectly acceptable for long hair, although putting it up inside the helmet is the neatest option.

If it's warm enough to show in short sleeves, my preference would be to remove the bulky vest before entering the ring. My personal practice is to wear a thin V-neck sweater over a polo shirt on cooler days so that the collar of the polo still shows and the lightweight fabric means that you're less likely to overheat once you start riding. The V-neck makes it easy to pull over your helmet if you get too warm and want to take it off.

This rider is not wearing gloves, which is perfectly acceptable if that is how she prefers to ride. If she ever wants more protection for her hands, she should choose black, brown, or even beige gloves depending on the rest of her outfit to remain conservative.

The breeches are an appropriate beige colour and are clean. Her boots, however, are a different story! If the light colour on the toes is dirt, they should have been cleaned before the horse show and preferably again after mounting. If it's discolouration from wear, the boots should have been buffed with black polish. I like for a rider's boots to be polished at all times in the jumper ring. Also, when half chaps are used, they should ideally be the type that look like tall boots from a distance, and they should be polished as well.

Overall, I think that this rider has done a very good job of presenting herself for a schooling-level jumper show. It will only take a few minor changes and polishing to bring their turnout up to the next level.

Thank you to this week's featured rider for submitting these photos! Anyone wishing to be featured in a future Turnout Critique should e-mail any photos to showringreadyblog@gmail.com

Turnout Critique #7

In this Turnout Critique, we'll be taking another look at a horse and rider who we've seen before at their very first horse show. Now we'll be looking at their turnout for the cold season.

Clipping might not be an option for certain horses depending on their living conditions (indoors vs. outdoors, blanketing, etc.) and workload. If you choose to show in the colder months without clipping, you need to go a step further with your turnout to show the judge that you haven't simply pulled your horse out of the field and onto the trailer. In this particular case, the step further would be to braid, even for a schooling show. The messy mane and forelock add to the overall hairiness and make it look as though all of the effort has gone towards the rider rather than the horse. Braiding at least the mane would demonstrate that an effort has been made. The hooves should similarly be polished as a finishing touch.

It's difficult to tell based on these photos alone whether the tail is dirty or simply has dark colouring. Even in cold weather, it's possible to partially wash the tail without making the horse wet by using a clean, damp sponge. Spread the tail across your knee and wipe each section down with the sponge until it comes away clean (rinse the sponge when it gets dirty). You could even use shampoo on the sponge if you're careful to rinse it away with another sponge afterwards. Using this method, it's possible to get quite a clean tail that can be easily brushed out, even in the winter!

Trimming the whiskers would also help to refine the turnout, but some riders do prefer to keep them, especially in the off-season.

While the feathers look like they started off clean and white, which is great, long hair does tend to capture dirt and you can see in the bottom photo that they did not stay white. If you do not wish to trim the leg hair, you can bring a stiff brush to the ring to remove most of the dirt from the warm-up and then apply baby powder or corn starch to the white socks to further whiten them.

If the coat is long, it will usually form a wavy pattern as the horse sweats. If you are showing a horse with a winter coat or whose summer coat has not finished coming in, bring a hard brush to the ring and run it over the horse right before entering the show ring to remove that waviness, making the horse appear sleeker and neater.

This bridle is not acceptable for the hunter ring, with its contrasting padding on the noseband and browband. The bridle should be brown or black with no accents of any other colours. I also wonder whether these reins are leather; I can't zoom in closely enough to confirm but they strike me as possibly being rubber or webbed, which would be illegal in the hunter ring.

The saddle pad is very clean and fits the shape of this saddle as well as can be expected, given the saddle's all purpose shape. Further down the line, this rider might think of switching to a proper jumping saddle that would help her to maintain the position and balance desired for the hunter ring. Her peacock irons are acceptable for a junior rider but I suggest that she keeps an eye on them as she grows as many brands are not designed to take an adult's weight. The excess stirrup leather is short enough that it is acceptable as is, but if it were any longer I would suggest either folding it under the saddle flap or trimming it.

I prefer the fit of this jacket to the one that we saw this rider in last time; it is slightly more fitted at the waist and through the arms. Paired with a clean white shirt and beige breeches, it is a classic combination that always works. The black crop is also appropriately conservative, and the clean black leather gloves add a polished subtlety to the hands.

From what I can see from these angles, the rider's hair appears to be appropriately neat and contained.

Several inches of the helmet strap hang down, and this is distracting. If it does not stay in the original harness set-up, I suggest trying to add a black braiding elastic or something similar to keep that excess strap contained.

The black field boots are very well-fitted, but they should always be polished before a horse show. It's the small details like polishing boots and hooves that really bring turnout to the next level.

I suggest that this rider practices braiding before her next show. That, combined with a change of bridle and a bit of polish, will make a big difference to her turnout, especially if she develops some special routines just for winter shows. 

Thank you very much to this week's featured rider for submitting these photos!

If you would like to submit one or more photos for a future Turnout Critique, send them to showringreadyblog@gmail.com

FAQ, Part 8

Does my tack need to match?
Not necessarily. It's quite common for there to be a couple of shades difference between two pieces of tack, especially when a rider uses one saddle between several horses whose bridles might not all be the same colour. What will stand out is if you use different pieces of tack with entirely different tones, but staying within the same colour family will usually work. Pairing orangey brown Newmarket with a dark brown would likely look bad, whereas pairing medium brown with chocolate brown is not likely to stand out at all (see Dover Saddlery's handy guide to leather colours). It's about creating a harmonious picture, so the less your tack stands out, the better.

Should I use light tack on a light horse and dark tack on a dark horse?
It depends. Tack colour preference seems to be highly regional, with some areas preferring lighter tack and others preferring darker tack. Obviously, lighter tack will stand out more on a darker horse, so in general darker tack would be preferable. Similarly, chestnut-coloured tack would stand out less on a chestnut, but most people aren't likely to find that a darker brown clashes with a chestnut coat, either. Tack colour for grey horses can be highly controversial. Overall, the general rule is to use a tack colour that you like and that complements your horse's coat colour without drawing the eye away from your horse.

Which stirrup irons are acceptable in the hunter ring?
As with anything in the hunter ring, conservative is best. Solid stainless steel fillis irons are always acceptable and are the most classic and attractive choice. Jointed irons are also acceptable, especially if the joint blends in with the stainless steel of the iron. Plastic composite irons can also be used. Modern aluminum stirrups with wide foot beds can also be used provided they are conservative in colour, but the style itself isn't exactly conservative. For equitation classes, black stirrup irons are no longer permitted.

Crossing Over Into Dressage

Sometimes it can be beneficial to take your horse to a dressage show as a chance to get off property or as a schooling opportunity. There is a lot of conflicting information available about what from the hunter and jumper rings is and is not allowed in the dressage ring, so this post will attempt to clarify things.

The advice in this post will be for attending schooling or Bronze-level shows, as these are the most likely shows for a hunter or jumper to attend. Keep in mind that the judging is usually more lenient at the lower rated shows and you're likely to be able to get away with more legal "faux pas" that might garner you more dirty looks at a Gold level show. 

Choose Your Level

Check out the tests of the various levels that you're considering showing at (the show should make it clear whose tests are being used; check out Dressage Canada and CADORA for the most commonly-used tests). The horse show's prize list should let you know which tests are being offered. Generally, the more advanced tests for each level are used later in the year while the easier ones will be used at the beginning to allow for an increase in difficulty.

If this is your first dressage show, you'll probably be looking at Walk/Trot or Training Level, or First Level if your horse is very well-schooled on the flat. Walk/Trot is, as the name implies, a test consisting of only walk and trot with the most basic figures. Training Level consists of walk, trot and canter (all working), as well as the basic figures. First Level introduces lengthenings in the trot and canter, as well as leg-yielding, 10m (trot) and 15m (canter) circles, and preparation for the counter canter. Most dressage riders school one level above what they show at, so you shouldn't necessarily choose the level with movements that you're just learning.

Study your test alongside an arena diagram to determine where each movement should be performed, as well as to choose visual markers to help make circles and other figures the correct size and shape.

Tack and Apparel

You will be just fine attending a dressage show (but always double check the rules governing your show series, just in case!) with your brown jumping saddle and beige breeches. Wear your darkest show jacket and a white show shirt, with either a regular choker or a stock tie. Your field boots will also be acceptable, as will be your dark gloves. Check the rule book to confirm that your spurs are acceptable, as well as the length of your dressage whip if you use one.

Most dressage riders put their hair in a bun below the base of the helmet, but hunter hair is also acceptable.

Most dressage riders will use a loose ring snaffle with a flash or regular cavesson, but you are also allowed to use eggbutts (including full cheeks) and D-rings. Check the rule book to find out if your mouthpiece is acceptable. Many dressage riders consider a figure-eight noseband to be a faux pas, but it is allowed and I showed at First Level with one without the judge or steward commenting on it. You may also use rubber reins, webbed reins or leather reins, depending on your personal preference. Most riders will use a square white saddle pad, but you're allowed to use a fitted pad, or another conservative colour, if you wish.

Your horse may be allowed to wear a fly veil (check your local rules), but keep it conservative. Don't stuff the ears or you will get eliminated.

You are allowed to use a running martingale for schooling, but no martingales may be used in the show ring. Many schooling shows will allow the horse to wear conservative boots or bandages in the show ring, but most riders will remove them after the warm-up anyway.

Dressage riders tend to put less emphasis on braiding than do hunters or jumpers (I've seen dressage horses at national shows with four braids total), so whatever you're used to doing as braids, whether with yarn or elastics, is likely to be acceptable as long as the mane is braided and neat.

Numbers are usually worn either on the bridle or on the saddle pad, depending on the type of number given to you. The bridle numbers have a little hook that you put through the browband loop as you would a ribbon, while the saddle pad numbers will come with pins or holes for pins. The number is usually put on the side that the judge will see as you turn left or right at C after your initial halt.

Times

You will be given ride times for your classes, often posted online. Re-check the day before the show because the times can be changed to manage conflicts. Also be aware that the rings can run early or late, so you should always check with the in-gate throughout the day. They should be able to provide you with an estimate of how many minutes you should adjust your time by. If the ring is running early, everyone will appreciate it if you move up and go early, but I don't believe that they can force you to go before your time.

Class Procedure

Plan your warm-up so that you will have a few extra minutes to remove any bandages, put your jacket on, etc. before heading into the show ring.

You will be allowed to enter the area around the show ring when the rider ahead of you has done their final halt and salute. You may work your horse around the outside of the show ring until the judge rings the bell, at which point you will have 45 seconds to get in the ring to begin your test (45 seconds is plenty of time to gather yourself and trot around the entire ring without rushing). If the judge looks up at you while you pass by the booth before your test starts, you should say "Good morning" or "Good afternoon" and confirm your number with the judge and scribe if they ask for it.

If you have a caller with you, they can enter the exterior of the ring at the same time as you and they should position themselves at E or B just outside of the show ring, preferably facing away from any other show rings to avoid disturbing other riders. If the ring is isolated, it's best for the caller to stand on the side that is upwind of you.

To salute, first halt your horse, put both reins in one hand, then drop the other hand (not the one carrying a whip!) down beside your leg, nod your head, and then pick your reins back up.

Once you have completed your final halt, you must leave the ring at the walk on a loose rein. Most riders will continue straight towards the judge before turning back towards A in case he or she wishes to give any verbal comments, and so that the rider can thank the judge. This also teaches the horse to continue moving in a straight line after a halt.

Tack Check

As you exit the ring, refrain from stopping or changing any equipment. Don't let anyone touch you or your horse until you reach the tack check area, where a steward will be waiting to make sure that your equipment, including the mouthpiece of the bit, is all legal. Once the steward has given you the okay, you can start removing tack and apparel if you have time to relax between tests. If the tack check is not performed (provided there is one at a schooling show), you will not be allowed to collect any ribbons or prizes.

Ribbons and Remarks

The awards need to wait until all of the scores have been tabulated and recorded, which can take anywhere from minutes (if computerized) to hours. Many dressage shows simply hand out ribbons from the secretary's office rather than having a formal awards ceremony. You will receive a copy of your test with the judge's remarks at the same time as your ribbon so that you can learn what the judge liked or disliked about each of the various movements and the test as a whole.

Terminology

- Working gaits: Often more energetic than what we think of as the working gaits of hunters and jumpers, but not a longer stride.
- Free walk: A lengthening of stride and frame in the walk, along with a stretch over the back. Make sure that your horse maintains energy rather than thinking of the walk as a break. The degree of contact desired (light or loose) seems to vary from region to region.
- Stretchy trot circle: Allow the horse to take the reins to really stretch down and out while maintaining just a light contact. Start to pick up your reins with about 1/4 of the circle left to go.
- Half circle: Completing only half the circle to form a semi circle.
- Medium walk: More step than a working walk; they're looking for the horse to really march.
- Loop: Similar to a shallow serpentine in shape, hitting all of the designated letters.

Natural Obstacles: The Grob

The grob, also known in some areas as the Devil's Dyke, is not as common in show rings as the bank, liverpool or open water, but it is still a fairly frequent obstacle in certain derbies. When it is present, it often makes a big impact on the outcome of the class.

A grob is dug into the ground so that each half slopes downward to meet in the middle at the deepest point. It is usually the width of the rails used for the jumps, so it can be relatively narrow and some horses don't enjoy the feeling of being funnelled down into such a restrictive, low area. For this reason it can be an especially spooky jump.

At its most difficult, the grob is a triple combination with one or two strides between each jump, depending on the length of the particular grob. It's more difficult at one stride because there's no room for error if the horse backs off on the way in. The course designer can also choose to only place a single jump in the center of the grob for the easiest set-up so that there's no striding to worry about.

There is usually a dry ditch or liverpool located at the bottom of the grob, under the middle jump. This can make the horse back off the combination even more.

Most grobs are dug straight, but some, including the one I am showing in this photo (with no jumps set up in it), are curved.

Due to the nature of the obstacle, a refusal at the second or third obstacle in the combination will require the horse to circle and retake the jump using only the space between that jump and the previous jump. Because the sides rise up as the horse goes down into the grob, there is no way for the horse to exit out the side to retake the combination as a whole.

Foolproof Jumper Braids

In this post I will describe how I create my foolproof jumper braids. They aren't necessarily the easiest or fastest braids, but they look consistently good, they stay put and they work on almost any mane (aside from a natural one, of course). I have used these braids in both the jumper ring and the dressage ring and have gotten many compliments in both, and they easily survive several classes per day and/or being left in overnight.

I braid with yarn rather than elastics because the yarn stays in better and creates prettier braids by helping to keep the braids as close to the neck as possible rather than having them stick out sideways.

The number of braids that you should do depends on your personal preference and on your horse's particular mane. Thicker manes usually require more braids to keep them a manageable size, while thin manes can require fewer braids in order to give more bulk and roundness to each individual braid. If your horse's mane is extremely short, you should take smaller sections of hair to keep hair from popping out mid-braid (the further the hair has to move sideways to get into the braid, the shorter that section of hair becomes compared to the middle section).

Before starting, get your supplies ready. You'll need yarn that matches your horse's mane, a spray bottle of water (or Quic Braid if you prefer), a pull-through/rug hook (available at tack shops and at craft stores), scissors, elastics (optional) and a seam ripper for removing the braids afterward.

To measure and cut the yarn, grab the end of a roll in one hand and start wrapping it from that hand around your elbow (on the same arm) and back up to your hand. Keep wrapping until you have about 12 to 15 wraps, depending on the number of braids you plan on doing.  Find where you've grabbed the end of the yarn and cut through all of the wraps at that one point. This should leave you with 12 to 15 pieces of yarn of the same length, about double the length of your lower arm. Hang these in an easily accessible spot, either somewhere around your belt or on your horse's halter.

I recommend starting behind your horse's ears so that the higher braids end up more evenly spaced. If you reach the end and have to do one wide or several narrow braids, the difference in size will be less obvious at the withers where your hands and saddle pad will hide the braids anyway.

Step 1

After spraying the first few inches of mane a few times, grab a section of it (I prefer to simply use the same hand motion every time to get the same amount of hair rather than using a comb) and braid it straight down. Straightness is important at all times because crookedness in the braiding process will result in a crooked braid. You can make the first couple of cross-overs fairly loose if you would like to give your horse some room to stretch and then braid tightly the rest of the way down.

Step 2

About 1/3 of the way from the bottom, grab one piece of yarn while pinching the braid tight with your other hand and fold the yarn in half. Lay it behind or in front of your braid so that the middle of the yarn is against your braid, and continue to braid the rest of the way down, incorporating the two ends of yarn into two sections of hair in the braid. This is the same technique as you use for hunter braids.

Step 3

Braid until you are just above the ends of the hair. Tie off the braid by wrapping the yarn around the braid and tying a knot. If you aren't sure how to tie a braid off, this is an excellent article using a contrasting yarn colour for clarity. If your horse's mane is thick, it can be difficult to get the knot tight enough so for those manes I like to wrap a braiding elastic over the knot (make sure to gently pull the ends of the yarn out of the way).

If a minor imperfection develops in the second half of your braid, as has happened here when my horse shook her head, don't worry about it. That part of the braid will be hidden later on.

I like to braid the entire mane down before moving on to the next step to help me keep an eye on the size and length of my braids.

Step 4

Take your pull-through and insert it down through the braid about 2/3 of the way down. Insert it straight down through the center (it's much easier if you insert it through a gap between cross-overs and that helps to keep the braid straight).

Step 5

With the hook in the open position, put both ends of the yarn inside the loop and then close it. Bring the pull-through back up through the braid so that the yarn ends stick out of the front of the braid and then let the yarn fall out of the pull-through.

Step 6

Gently pull the yarn straight down. Your braid should fold up and finish with the yarn pointing at the ground.

Step 7

Now insert the pull-through straight down through to the back of the braid at the crest, as you would for a hunter braid. Grab the yarn again with your pull-through and bring it back up through the top of the braid.

Step 8 

Gently pull the yarn taut. Your braid should fold up a second time, with the folded bottom of the braid from the previous step ending up at the top of the underside of the braid. You might need to gently guide the folding process with your fingers as you pull.

Step 9

Keep the yarn taut as you bring one piece of yarn around each side of the braid, tying a simple overhand knot under the braid.

Step 10

Now bring one piece of yarn up around each side of the braid and tie another overhand knot on top. I like to use a surgeon's knot at this point, twisting an extra time to make it even more secure.

Step 11

To finish, bring one piece of yarn down around each side of the braid again and tie them together underneath the braid, using two overhand knots to make sure it won't budge. Again, I like to use a surgeon's knot at this point. All of these passes above and below the braid serve to make the braid round and to corral any loose hairs into the braid.

Step 12

Grab the two yarn ends and pull them out to the side or bottom of the braid so that you can cut them with the scissors without cutting the braid itself. There should be enough stretch in the yarn that they should disappear back under the braid when you let go of the cut ends. 

Repeat the same steps for the rest of your braids until the entire neck is done.

To remove the braids, you'll need to cut through your final knot underneath the braid and then you might also need to cut your wrap knot from the initial braiding down.

Turnout Critique #6

This week's featured rider clearly tries hard to have good turnout and is doing a lot right, but she needs to focus on a few more details and ensure that she is using her safety equipment in a way that allows it to work as it should.

This was this rider's very first Bronze-level show and her turnout is extremely good for a rider starting at that level. 

Her pony is in excellent condition, shiny and in good weight. He is very clean and has nicely oiled hooves. The tail is brushed out nicely and is an excellent example of what a properly brushed out tail should look like. Each hair flows freely with none bunching together, which comes from working through the entire tail from bottom to top. I also appreciate that the mane is braided, and although I cannot tell much about the quality from the resolution of these photos, I can tell that they are thin with no frizz. It's possible that some of the braids have turned, which can be remedied by starting with a shorter mane if that is the case. The pony also appears to be nicely trimmed.

I'm not sure that the shape of the saddle fits this rider (although shortening the stirrups might help to put more bend in her knee and therefore use the front half of the saddle more), but it appears to be clean and in good repair. My biggest issue is with the stirrup irons. In two of these photos, the peacock safety stirrup is positioned so that the open (with rubber band) side is facing the pony. It may be that the stirrup leather was twisted for the flat phase, but it's important for that open side to face outward. If this rider were to fall, the only way that the rubber band could pop open to help release her foot would be if it was on the outside, the direction in which she would move in a fall. If this rider wishes to continue using safety stirrups, she should make sure to keep on eye on the peacock irons as she grows. Most brands are not designed to take more than a child's weight (due to the open side) and could bend, especially with the forces involved while jumping. There are other types of safety stirrups available, and a properly-sized solid stirrup iron can be very safe as well.

This rider actually commented to me that her saddle pad was too small, but I disagree. The flap area of this saddle pad is actually too large for this saddle (even when it slips back there is still about an inch of pad showing in front but three or four inches too much in the back), both in width and depth. The pad might be too small under the back of the saddle where I don't have a clear view of it, but simply going up to a horse-sized pad from a pony pad to fix that would make the flap area even more distractingly large. I would instead try different brands of pony-sized pads to find one that fits all the way around, leaving an inch or two of pad showing everywhere.

The bridle appears to be properly fitted and clean, and a converter is being used with the pelham as is allowed under EC rules for juniors. I would double-check the length of the standing martingale just to make sure that it isn't restricting the pony in any way. He is hitting the end of it while landing in the photo below, but this might be the highest that his head ever goes on landing. Personally, I would lengthen it by a hole or two just to make sure that the pony stays comfortable.

The rider is correctly turned out for the hunter ring in a classic combination of dark jacket, white shirt, dark gloves and beige breeches. It's possible that her boots could use a coat of polish because I can't detect much shine in these photos.

I am not a big fan of Tipperary helmets for the hunter ring, personally. I find that the sun's reflection off the shiny finish is distracting and the shape of the helmet can make it appear that the rider is looking down, which could count against you in an equitation class. There is such a variety of safe helmets available in all price ranges and fits, so I recommend that this rider search for one that is more conservatively-styled when the time comes to buy her next one.

This rider's hair is up in a bun, which is much better than a loose ponytail. I find that the bun is a bit large, though, so I might experiment with different styles to find something that stands out a little bit less. Some long-haired riders like tucking a long braid inside the shirt collar, while others find different shapes of bun to work better than others. I understand that very long or thick hair does not always fit inside a helmet, and some riders simply aren't comfortable with putting it there for safety or comfort reasons.

Overall, this rider is doing an excellent job so far and there really isn't much to change. The effort that she puts into her turnout is obvious and I'm sure that the judges notice it, too.

As always, a big thank you to this week's featured rider for submitting these photos! If you would like to participate in a future turnout critique, please send your photo(s) to showringreadyblog@gmail.com