Review: Making the Running

My first thought when I was asked to review this novel was that an equestrian romance novel likely wouldn't fit into the theme of this blog. Upon further thought, I realized that it would be entirely appropriate because I'm sure that most of us have, at least once, struggled to read through a horse-related novel riddled with so many errors that the author couldn't possibly be a horse person. Reviewing an equestrian-themed novel on a blog devoted to the intricacies of grooming seems like a pretty good way to screen out painfully inaccurate or pseudo- horse books.

Making the Running, written by Hannah Hooton, takes place in the world of jump racing. While the discipline is not something that most of us hunter/jumper riders take part in, we share a lot in common and it provides an exciting background to the human side of the story. Hooton's race descriptions are both enlightening and exciting, allowing the reader to feel as though they are anxiously watching from the sidelines alongside our protagonist Kate.

Kate Cresswell is a stable lass at Aspen Valley Racing Stables. She juggles her job and a dysfunctional family life, and things only get more complicated when she meets polar-opposite brothers Nicholas Borden, a preppy investment banker and his family's racing manager, and Ben de Jager, an amateur jump jockey with a mysterious past. Kate struggles to support her siblings while making tough choices about her horses and her love life, all in the lead-up to the famous Cheltenham Festival.

Making the Running is the fourth book in Hannah Hooton's Aspen Valley series, but it easily stands on its own as the main characters are new to the series. Having never read the previous novels, I had no trouble dropping into the Aspen Valley world, though I am sure that there are enough references to events and characters from the previous books to satisfy regular Hooton fans.  

As a horse person, it's a relief to come across a line on the very first page such as "his poor excuse for a forelock" because that is a description that only a true horse person would think to use. Despite being a romance novel, the horse world is depicted in a very real way, with no hesitation in having the equine characters slobber, head-butt and generally put themselves between the human characters. Given that there is no attempt to falsely paint every human character within the business as a devoted horse lover, Hooton has clearly been in the industry and understands the diverse cast of characters to be found.

Hooton creates characters full of depth, each with his or her own back story. The relationships between and setbacks suffered by all of the characters feel real; this is not your typical fairytale romance. Hooton deftly handles dark topics such as alcoholism without losing the light tone of the novel.

While some of the plot lines are somewhat predictable as can be expected in a romance novel, it's an enjoyable ride and Hooton even manages to sneak in a couple of surprises near the end. Although there are a couple of scenes with adult content, this book is much more about the emotional relationships between characters rather than the physical.

Overall, Making the Running is a fun, well-written book, with the reader's attention captured alternately by the fantastic race descriptions and duelling characters. It's available as an e-book (Kindle users click here), and for those wishing to start from the beginning, the first book in the Aspen Valley series, Keeping the Peace, is currently available for free in various formats through Hannah Hooton's website, where you can also learn more about her other books!

Disclosure: I have received no financial compensation for writing this review aside from a sample or copy of the product to be reviewed. My reviews are always my honest opinion and experience. Readers who use reviewed products do so at their own risk.

Unusual Tack: The Waterford Bit

The "Unusual Tack" feature aims to bring to light or describe lesser-known or frequently misunderstood pieces of tack.

The Waterford bit can be controversial, but what can't be argued is that it is a fairly popular bit in the hunter ring. To the outside observer it might appear to be an uncommon equipment choice, but D-ring cheeks can hide many a different mouthpiece!

The Waterford is a four-jointed bit, unlike the two joints of the french link or the one joint of a regular single-jointed snaffle. Because there are four joints, the bit is very flexible. This can make it a good choice for horses who tend to lean down onto the bit because there is no solid piece for the horse to hang onto.

The allegations of harshness likely have to do with the possibility for the mouthpiece to wrap around the shape of the lower jaw if too much pressure is applied without release. Any bit will become harsh if used by harsh hands, but special care should be taken with the Waterford to avoid its use by uneducated hands not because it is an inherently harsh bit, but because its construction has the potential to offer the horse no relief from pressure in the case of heavy hands. Because many horses will learn to lean on a rider's heavy hands, rider education can sometimes be a better solution than a switch to the Waterford bit.

Its popularity in the hunter ring likely lies in the typically low way of going favoured for hunters, which can occasionally transition from long and low to downright heaviness. A Waterford can provide a gentle reminder to a heavier-travelling horse to lighten its forehand when used by a considerate rider. Combined with the light contact favoured in the hunter ring, the Waterford in theory can be a gentler choice than a bit that would require more pressure, constant reminders or increased leverage.

Stubben Waterford Max Relax

For those concerned about the placement of the joints near the corners of the mouth, at least one company now makes a three-jointed version of the Waterford which provides a longer length of attachment from the joints to the bit rings.

FAQ, Part 14

Is a Happy Mouth or Nathe bit acceptable for the hunter ring?

Yes, it is fairly common to see hunters ridden in white plastic bits. Judges are unlikely to penalize a horse for going in a soft bit, and while the colour can stand out in contrast to the horse and bridle, it is of little consequence on a well-turned-out horse. Bit material is not regulated, provided it is humane.

How can I tell which classes are in a hunter division?

The horse show's prize list should outline which classes are included in each division. Generally, a hunter division will have anywhere from two to four over fences classes as well as one under saddle (flat) class. Certain shows might offer a handy class, a model class, or a stake class as part of a division.

In the prize list or schedule, the jumping classes will usually be denoted by either "over fences" or "o/f" (the class specified as a handy or a stake is also over fences), while the under saddle could be represented by "u/s". For equitation divisions, "on the flat" or "flat" is used in place of "under saddle".

Are flexible stirrups permitted in the hunter ring?

Jointed or flexible stirrups are permitted for hunter classes. For equitation and medal classes in Canada, however, black branches are not permissible (light-coloured branches are fine), though the stirrups may still be jointed. USEF rules allow black joints for equitation classes as long as the entire stirrup iron is not black.

Can you braid just the tail for a hunter class?

Braiding the tail is usually done for especially formal classes, so it is typically done in cases when the mane is already expected to be braided. If the horse show is formal enough to braid anything, the mane should be braided. At schooling shows where braiding is not expected, some riders might practice braiding the tail for fun, but otherwise it is typical to braid either just the mane or both the mane and tail.

Which is better for a hunter, a high or a low score?

When numerical scoring is used in the hunter ring, it is based on an ideal score of 100, so a higher score is a better score.

Fix a Broken Halter Chin Strap

One of the most frequently-broken halter parts is the chin strap, especially on those halters that have adjustable ones. Ideally you will have either a spare halter or a spare chin strap close at hand, but your spare could be a less-than-ideal fit or material. In such cases, it's possible to fashion your own replacement chin strap, or even create one in advance to keep on hand.

I like to keep old stirrup leathers around because they can be very useful as spare stirrup leathers or as neck straps. At the right width and thickness, they are also handy for halter repairs.

Step one is to remove the old chin strap. If it is in otherwise good shape, you could keep it to be repaired professionally. Fasten the throatlatch to keep everything neat and easy to visualize.

Step two is to find an appropriate stirrup leather. Something single-ply and at most 1" wide is most likely to fit through the slots.

Step three is to thread the stirrup leather through the slots and ring. Ensure that the side facing towards the horse is the same side that you would like to show on the outside of the finished chin strap (thread it wrongly and your buckle won't be able to close). You can trim off a section of stirrup leather before threading it, but err on the side of caution so that you don't end up with too short of a chin strap at the end. The stirrup leather in these photos is "rough side out", so it is threaded with the rough side facing towards the horse's chin.

Before inserting the leather into the second slot, slide two sturdy braiding elastics onto the leather. These will serve as keepers later on to help the leather keep the desired shape.

After coming out of the second slot, loop the leather back onto itself and through the nearest elastic.

Take the buckle end and fold it back onto itself and through the other elastic, and then feed the longest end through the ring to meet the other end.

Slide a third braiding elastic over the non-buckle end. Put the halter on your horse carefully (you can trim off any obvious excess in advance to avoid spooking your horse) and shorten the chin strap until it's the desired length. Use the braiding elastic to mark the spot where you would like to make a hole.

Use a leather punch to make a hole in the marked location. If you plan on using the replacement chin strap for multiple horses, punch one or two holes on either side of the target hole to allow for adjustment.

Move the marker elastic onto the buckle end of the leather, and then buckle the chin strap, using the elastic as a keeper. You can trim off any excess leather an inch or so beyond the furthest hole. If you are using a stirrup leather with roller buckles such as this one, you might consider wrapping the roller in Vetrap to dampen any jingling.

How to Fix a Squeaky Bit

Bits with hinged cheek pieces, such as D-rings, full cheeks and eggbutts, can develop a squeak over time. While the squeakiness doesn't interfere with the action of the bit, the sound made as the horse chews the bit can be annoying, while also potentially bringing attention at shows to a horse who over-chews the bit.

Because the bit cheeks come into such close contact with the horse's mouth, especially when a lot of saliva is produced, using a lubricant that isn't food-grade is a risk. Thankfully, there is an inexpensive food-grade solution that should help in most cases, and you likely already have it in your feed room or kitchen.

The simplest solution is to place a drop of vegetable oil (I have had great success with canola oil, but other common vegetable oils such as corn oil, soybean oil, etc., should also work) on each gap in the hinge. The oil will spread quickly, so it's important to move the hinge back and forth to work each drop of oil in before it drips off the bit. Repeat this for each gap, and then hang up the bridle to allow the oil some time to spread through the entire hinge before riding.

If this method doesn't stop the squeaking, it might be necessary to leave the bit to soak in a dish of your chosen vegetable oil so that the oil can penetrate more deeply.

If your bit resumes squeaking after some time, simply repeat the oiling process as needed.

Grooming the Sensitive Horse

Some horses adore being groomed, while others would much rather be left alone. A thorough daily grooming plays a significant part in producing the deep shine that we aim for on show horses. Not only does it help you keep track of any changes on your horse's body, but it also increases circulation and distributes oil throughout the hair shaft to help produce the desired sheen. For these reasons, even those otherwise healthy horses who don't always enjoy being groomed really do benefit from a modified grooming program.

Sensitive horses often object to the curry comb because of its stiffness. Currying is important for both blood circulation and to bring dirt, dust and sweat up away from the skin. For those horses who dislike even the more jelly-like soft curries, I have found that a cactus cloth mitt can provide a suitable alternative.

Cactus (or sisal) cloth

Cactus cloth is made of natural sisal fibres woven into a textured pattern. Its texture allows it to penetrate deeply into the coat, but it is also very pliable and horses seem to enjoy being groomed with it. It is available on its own or sewn into a convenient mitt, often with fleece on the other side as an extra grooming tool. It can be used in the same circular motion as a curry comb, and horses will often tolerate it on the more sensitive parts of the body that can't be curried normally.

Cactus cloth can be used as an alternative to a curry comb, but it is also a useful grooming tool on its own for actions such as drying and removing sweat.

One downside to using cactus cloth is that it is more difficult to clean than a curry comb, and the fabric can trap dirt and sweat where it can't always be removed with a stiff brush. In addition to regular brushing, it's a good idea to clean your sisal mitt with soap or shampoo when it gets visibly dirty.

Many sensitive horses take a strong dislike to being groomed with a stiff dandy brush. I am not aware of any good alternative to the dandy brush aside from finding the softest bristles that will still do the job, so sometimes all you can do is spend extra time with the curry or cactus mitt and then move directly on to the body brush.

The brush on the left shows the longer "flicking" bristles

I have found that sensitive horses seem to prefer the lighter touch that is possible by using a long-bristled body brush. These brushes have soft bristles that are longer than average, allowing for more of a flicking motion that removes dirt and hair with more flexibility and less direct pressure. It is used with the same long, sweeping motions in the direction of hair growth as you would use with a regular body brush, but with a little bit more of a "flick" at the end of each stroke. 

Some horses might prefer natural bristles over synthetic bristles, but experimentation is required to determine whether this might be contributing to any reactiveness.

Overall, it's fine to adjust your grooming routine to meet an individual horse's needs as long as you are able to find alternatives that will accomplish the same aims. Grooming should be an enjoyable experience for the horse, and if pain or other health-related causes of sensitivity are ruled out, sometimes all that's required is a different set of tools.

Video Roundup

For those who have finished showing for the season, now is the perfect time to practice grooming skills for next year. With so many different how-to videos available on the internet, it can be difficult to know which to follow for instructions, so I've pulled together a selection of videos showing good demonstrations of how to braid, bandage and clip.

All of these skills are best started with the help of an experienced horse person to guide you along, but videos can provide useful preparation, extra tips, or refreshers. 

Wrapping legs

This video does make an error in the direction of bandaging (it should be done, as shown, rather than as said, from the front, around the outside to the back, which is counter-clockwise on the left legs and clockwise on the right), and I prefer to overlap enough not to end up with an extra length of bandage at the end, but it is otherwise a very good demonstration of bandaging a leg. For shipping wraps, purchase a size larger for the cottons and allow the extra cotton to cover the pastern, and then leave just a little bit exposed at the top and bottom after wrapping as you would for a standing bandage (as shown in this video). As far as tightness goes, the bandage should be snug but you should still be able to insert a finger or two between the bandage and the leg.

Hunter Braids (Mane)

The tricks here are mostly to not use too much hair per section, to keep the braid straight while braiding, to braid each section to the same length as the others, and to pull the braid straight up with your pull-through.

Tail Braiding

It takes a lot of patience to learn how to braid a tail, so this one requires a lot of practice both to get the hang of handling all of those strands while keeping them tight, and also to take many small bunches for an elegant look rather than using more hair to get to the end more quickly.

Body Clipping

This is a good overall video, but personally I prefer to overlap my strokes more to prevent lines, and I try to keep all electrical cords safely against the wall away from the horse's legs except for the small section that I need at any given moment.

For those who don't wish to do a full clip, the next video demonstrates very nicely how to clip lines, and it also provides an excellent demonstration of clipping smoothly with an overlap between strokes, and always following the opposite direction of the hair growth.